Removing rear wheel bearings?

[joeblow]

OK, has anybody done this with the 'Porsche' method, hammering out the stub axle, then pressing out the bearing? I am worried about hurting the stub axle. What do you guys think? I do have a press but the stub axle has to come out by pounding it looks like.

[jason2guy]

get a slide hammer for the stub axle. put something over the wheel studs so they dont get screwed up.

[joeblow]

Jason,

Are you saying attach the slide hammer to the outside face using the wheel studs?

Originally Posted by jason2guy

get a slide hammer for the stub axle. put something over the wheel studs so they dont get screwed up.

[tonythetarga]

Rear Wheel Bearing Removal

Check out this thread. Remember to use the "Search" tool for many great ideas and documented repairs. I'm sure you can find what tools you need at a local hardware store.
Good luck

[joeblow]

Thanks Tony...funny it seems that my hubs are very stubborn compared to other experiences. I tried the two prybar method and no go. I will go buy a slide hammer and give that a shot.

[Trackrash]

If you have a compressor an air hammer may work. Just be careful not to damage the threads.

[Tom '74 911]

There are a lot of posts on this! Many (including me) have used a home-made bearing puller using all-thread rod and some variously sized pieces of pipe. While some have an easy time of it, removing my rear wheel bearings is at the top of my list of almost impossible tasks. After a few days using pry bars and slide hammers, I cried uncle and brought my trailing arms to a friend with a press - done in 2 minutes. Hope yours don't fight as much as mine did!

Tom

[rusnak]

I bought the high dollar wheel bearing puller. Fantastic tool and to me it's worth the money.

A cheap low dollar method would be to use a hydraulic press, as Tom 74 states. You would have to re-align the suspension, but that's a small penalty unless you recently had a suspension alignment.

[Tom '74 911]

Originally Posted by rusnak

I bought the high dollar wheel bearing puller. Fantastic tool and to me it's worth the money.

A cheap low dollar method would be to use a hydraulic press, as Tom 74 states. You would have to re-align the suspension, but that's a small penalty unless you recently had a suspension alignment.

I did neglect to mention that I had my entire rear suspension apart at the time, so taking the trailing arms to a press was no extra work. I'd opt for the bearing puller if it wasn't already apart.

Tom

[rusnak]

I would almost say that without a puller or a hydraulic press, this job should not be attempted by a home diy-er. But with a puller it's a very easy job. Once you have the brake components off removal is a 10 minute job and installation is even quicker. Separating the hub from the stub axle is a pain, even with a press.

Don't forget to tighten the castle nut. You will need a special 1" socket drive, and you may need all of your weight to tighten it.

[FrinkFrog]

I'm going to agree with rusnak and other posters here that suggest using proper equipment. I've read that one can create costly damages to the hub by applying 'shade-tree' mechanical interventions and having done this particular job myself with a friend who had the special bearing puller (made for this job) - I have to say that I couldn't imagine doing it any other way. You may also want to clean and re-pack your CV joints "while you're in there".

[jason2guy]

yeah u bolt the slide hammer where the rim would bolt on and the stub axle comes right off

[Zeke]

Interestingly enough, the best tech article on rear bearing replacement is part of an article about converting 914's to five lug hubs. Take a look here and start about Step #14.

Pelican Technical Article: 914 Five Bolt Pattern Conversion

Simply disregard the 914 stuff and it's the same procedure including the retainer.

[rusnak]

Originally Posted by milt

Interestingly enough, the best tech article on rear bearing replacement is part of an article about converting 914's to five lug hubs. Take a look here and start about Step #14.

Pelican Technical Article: 914 Five Bolt Pattern Conversion

Simply disregard the 914 stuff and it's the same procedure including the retainer.

I think that step #14 would probably work, with emphasis on the words "repeated" and "heavy" blows.

The issue to me is the installation of the new bearing. After all of that, I would rather use the puller to thread the new bearing in while properly supported with an exact fit flat washer. I am not joking around when I say it was a 5 minute job with the big puller.

If anyone within driving distance wants to borrow my puller, it's available any time.

[jax911]

Don't forget HEAT, made the job much easier for me.

[Zeke]

You must not have read the whole article. They froze the bearing and pulled in it gently by the outer race with a fixture that can be made at home. Then froze the hub and it slipped right in. I did mess one up way back when.

Funny, I have all these tools and things I made up over the years and those that I bought. MFI adjustment tools including protractors, cam holders, engine stands, cylinder hold down sleeves, Gunsun Gas Testor, the list goes on.

And somewhere is that all thread and pipe thingy for the rear wheel bearing.

Somewhere........

[rusnak]

Actually....with all due respect I did read the article.

They said they froze the bearing all right, but then "drove" it in with a 3 inch socket and a heavy mallet.

I was like "(!)" when I read that part. I disagree with hammering in the new bearing and then trying to drive on it.

A threaded puller, even a home made one, would allow you to pull the bearing into place, then pull the hub and bearing together while supporting the bearing outer race properly.

[brentrussell]

I did mine today!! I tried prying off with two bars and it would not budge, I found a shaft that fitted down the bearing that sat on the top of the splines, not ideal but with a press it only needed a light nudge and it was on its way.
Used the press to remove the old bearings, I would HATE to do this without a press or a correct bearing puller.
Everything is apart now, will sandblast and reassemble over coming weeks. Just need to locate the right parts.

[joeblow]

Well guys thanks for all the help...

I went shopping today and got a BIG slide hammer. I searched around for a washer or something suitably sized to the hub OD to use on the shaft of the new slide hammer but could simply not find anything.

Then I saw a lug nut from a Land Rover Defender. If you guys have never seen these they look the part, they are...well BIG, 22mm in fact!! It so happened that not only did it fit the hub OD it also had a shoulder that fit the ID as well..AND threaded onto the slide hammer!!! I could not have been more lucky.

The first hub took 4 WHACKS and off it went. The second took 2 WHACKS and it was off. (NEW PORSCHE TOOL BAGGED AND LABELED IN THE TOOL BOX)

Then I turned to the wheel bearings. I found some large and thick washers in the 'hardware pile' and then found a heavy Stainless steel cone I was going to use to fabricate and intake system, then a upper spring perch for RSR Bilsteins and a very long hardened bolt with fine thread nut and badda bing badda boom I have a custom Porsche wheel bearing tool. Pics enclosed.

Less than 5 mins later...two wheel bearings on the workbench....new ones on the way....More later when they arrive. I am feeling very + right now! Thanks for the help guys!!

[cay-ahe]

For bearing install just freeze the bearing and heat the trailing arm. I heat mine up to about 250f and with gloves just pop them in by hand. That is the easy part. Freeze the hub and figure a way to use your threaded rod to press the hub in place. Don't forget to have the bearing cap in place first. I just installed a hub only to realize I forgot the cap. Three bearings for a two bearing job......bummer.

Good luck.