A arm removal .... having a bit of trouble

[mspirito]

I have read almost all of the posts regarding front torsion bar replacement.
I have followed the instructions and have been unable to beat the torsion bar out of the arm.
I have thus decided to remove the A arm and approach it that way.
I have been able to remove the wedge bolt from the Ball joint and the front attachment of the A arm.
I also removed the adjusting bolt and the rear cap with the splines.
Now how do I get the bloody thing to move?
It seems to be stuck into the cross member.?
Thanks for the help

[RWebb]

BFH - use a brass drift or something in between the big hammer & torsion bar if you are concerned about damage

the arm is hanging freely, right? you can also have a friend hold it up while you bang on the t bar

[JP911]

You also have to remove the large bolt that secures the crossmember to the chassis (the bolt goes through the bushing mount on the a-arm).

[vash]

lexington kentucky..that near any good bourbon? we'll be right there!

hahah.. JP is correct.

[aturboman]

The front t-bar splines are most likely rusted into the control arm receiver.

The front end of the control arm has a small replaceable metal plug pressed in which covers the end of the torsion bar tube; Porsche # 900 040 008 01 "cover plate".

Carefully drill a hole in the plug ( don't hit the bar) and pry the cap out with with a strong screwdriver or pull with a slide hammer.

Now you can easily access the forward bar splines to lubricate them with penetrating oil; keep lubing and allow time to work.

Use a heavy brass drift and strike the bar sharply with the arm mounted in a vise.

It will usually come out fairly easily; but if really rusted you may need to add heat and more lube to the bar before knocking it out.

The removal of this cap allows the inside of the tube and front splines to be cleaned and media blasted and rust proofed, and added benefit.

[mspirito]

Thanks JP911, I thought that maybe that bolt would be the answer but did not see it mentioned anywhere. I will give it a try tomorrow.

Aturboman , I have already removed the front dust cover and tried to pound on the torsion bar from the front. thanks for the input

Thanks guys really appreciate it
We are in the heart of Bourbon actually the next county over is called Bourbon County home to Paris, Kentucky and some of the best horse flesh in the world.. along with some good drinking

[na2ub]

I don't see how removing the a arm will help that much. If the t bar won't come out with some pounding, I would suggest getting a larger hammer, penetrating oil, or an air hammer. It will likely just be a matter of "how hard do you need to hit it."

Don't forget, you will need to order a new wedge pin. These are supposed to only be used once. Good luck! If it weren't for stuck nuts, bolts, and such, anybody could be an ace mechanic.

[mspirito]

NA2UB
little hard to really hit it very hard in the position it is in on the jack stands.
Tried air hammer, PB blaster, etc, no luck.. so off it comes for some heat and change out of the bushings.
Thanks

[JeremyD]

I had the same problem and just ended up pulling the whole suspension off to work on.

[RWebb]

when you get it all off, send the steel parts off to a powdercoater - search up the old threads on how to mask it off or instruct the powdercoater on that

have fun

[mspirito]

Do I need a new wedge pin? That part looks fairly stout.
I have ordered the new locking nut. Which I assume goes on with the slots toward the bolt?

[RWebb]

YES - always replace the wedge pin for the strut/ball joint.