plumbing forward coolers in SWB ?

[ty901]

all;
tried a search & came up empty. the patient is a '66 912.
progress continues; the '72 oil reservoir is mounted. i will be installing twin forward coolers. looking for ideas (and hopefully images) of custom made hard lines to the front. i understand that standard 3/4" copper plumbing tube can be used. pros or cons ?
tips re: mating lines to rubber hose / fittings, etc.
any help appreciated.
TIA
jerry

[tadd]

Copper pipe has the big advantage of being easily soldered or beaded so adding fittings is easy in a home garage.

Plumbing grade copper is a LOT less copper than it used to be and IIRC carries a 110 psi rating at 140*F. I think you would be far better served going to someplace like McMaster.com and getting 'real' copper tube with a better pressure-temp rating.

I'm headed down the same path with my 67 912, but will be using swagelok fittings on seamless aluminum tubing (easier bending w/o creasing). A 6" dia X 24" tall Peterson tank (2.5 gal) with a hole in the hood (smugglers box) will hold the black gold.

Post pics as you go!

t

[grant101]

Hello,
I was looking for a plumber because my hot water is not working.
Can anyone please tell me how much they cost.

[Grady Clay]

The Factory thermostat/pressure relief valve and two pipes to the front fit nicely. Use the Factory attachments. ‘Nutcerts’ work well in the chassis.
You will need the Elephant Racing (ER) hoses from the engine to the thermostat and the thermostat to the tank.
Since you are doing a conversion, it is easiest to use a ’73-’89 oil tank as the fittings are the correct size and use the better (all rubber) supply ‘Z’ hose.
You will need to use the ’72-’89 oil outlet fitting at the crankcase.

If you use the ’64-’71 oil tank, you will need to adapt the hose fitting at the tank.

Rout both hoses over the right rear wheel arch inside the top of the fender.
Route the oil out hose from the engine over the transmission, past the engine oil cooler to the rear and then loop up into the fender arch. This hoses actually each need to be two hoses as both ends have 90° fittings. Straight fittings in the middle somewhere will prevent a twist-torque failure. Use the good, rubber padded Ariel hose clamps to prevent the hoses from moving (keep zip-ties to a minimum if at all).


Chuck at ER will help you have all the pieces necessary (in this kit):
Porsche 911 Oil Cooler kits - Elephant Racing


Best,
Grady

[ty901]

Originally Posted by grant101

Hello,
I was looking for a plumber because my hot water is not working.
Can anyone please tell me how much they cost.

if you have to ask, you can't afford one.

[ty901]

thanks for the tip! checked McM-C but came up empty for anything that would handle the temp & pressure in a large enough diameter. was unaware of the option you're pursuing. checked their site, but was unable to get specifics w/o registering. are you using their bender or another method? (didn't see anything large enough) are you running 3/4" (or 7/8") line?
i am considering routing inside the longitudinal.
will post pix.
you too!
thanks again
best
jerry

Originally Posted by tadd

Copper pipe has the big advantage of being easily soldered or beaded so adding fittings is easy in a home garage.

Plumbing grade copper is a LOT less copper than it used to be and IIRC carries a 110 psi rating at 140*F. I think you would be far better served going to someplace like McMaster.com and getting 'real' copper tube with a better pressure-temp rating.

I'm headed down the same path with my 67 912, but will be using swagelok fittings on seamless aluminum tubing (easier bending w/o creasing). A 6" dia X 24" tall Peterson tank (2.5 gal) with a hole in the hood (smugglers box) will hold the black gold.

Post pics as you go!

t

[ty901]

hi Grady;
thanks for your input & my apologies for not being more clear.
the project is a 912 => 911R clone. a '72 oil reservior is already mounted.
re: the plumbing, i am following in the footsteps of Lars (Speedo) w/ a couple of variations. i want to run solid lines as much as possible & will make them up.
the current phase involves spanning the wheel wells. i think i understand the rest of the scenario, but the driver side cooler is still just a concept (but non-negotiable just the same )
thanks again
best
jerry

Originally Posted by Grady Clay

The Factory thermostat/pressure relief valve and two pipes to the front fit nicely. Use the Factory attachments. ‘Nutcerts’ work well in the chassis.
You will need the Elephant Racing (ER) hoses from the engine to the thermostat and the thermostat to the tank.
Since you are doing a conversion, it is easiest to use a ’73-’89 oil tank as the fittings are the correct size and use the better (all rubber) supply ‘Z’ hose.
You will need to use the ’72-’89 oil outlet fitting at the crankcase.

If you use the ’64-’71 oil tank, you will need to adapt the hose fitting at the tank.

Rout both hoses over the right rear wheel arch inside the top of the fender.
Route the oil out hose from the engine over the transmission, past the engine oil cooler to the rear and then loop up into the fender arch. This hoses actually each need to be two hoses as both ends have 90° fittings. Straight fittings in the middle somewhere will prevent a twist-torque failure. Use the good, rubber padded Ariel hose clamps to prevent the hoses from moving (keep zip-ties to a minimum if at all).


Chuck at ER will help you have all the pieces necessary (in this kit):
Porsche 911 Oil Cooler kits - Elephant Racing


Best,
Grady