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OsoMoore's Avatar
 
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My boot is coming off!

While messing with my suspension, I discovered my CV joint boot is in need of some help. I am working on determining what I need to buy in order to re-do all 4 boots. I don't have any bad noises, so I don't believe I need to replace the joints themselves.
So, just boots, grease, and clamps to hold the boots on. Is that sufficient?

Should I get the complete 4x boot kit?
Pelican Parts - Product Information: PEL-CV911B3

Or do I just need the four boots and some grease?
Pelican Parts - Product Information: 901-332-293-12-M203

Or maybe four of these cheaper kits?
Pelican Parts - Product Information: 000-043-301-08-M60

I'm also trying to determine why the individual boot kit is only $10, but the quad kit is $130. Do I really need to replace all the bolts and so forth?


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Lillie - 1979 911 SC Targa, The Original 911 SCWDP Car. Currently in open heart surgery.
Old 06-03-2013, 05:36 AM
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o id be making all 4 a project after seeing that ..

it is a very messy job . I cant speak of what you should or shouldnt buy but i would get the 4 boot kit ., if you clicked further on under info you would see you would get all new gaskets, new bolts , retaining clips .

You do these things so rarely and its so messy why not just do it right the first time.

to do a proper job of it you need to take the half shaft off , disasemble the cv joints and clean all the old grease out with a rag and then warm soapy water ( not solvents ) .

Then put it all back together with your new hardware . there are a ton of threads on this so take your time, get dirty and enjoy .. BTW wear clothes you are prepared to throw away after .. coz you will ...
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Last edited by theiceman; 06-03-2013 at 06:06 AM..
Old 06-03-2013, 06:00 AM
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Dirty nasty job......I did a rebuild and had a "pro" do a build....they both crapped the bed.

Ended up buying a complete pair axles and CVs from PMB Performance. Bolted them right in.

After my practice removals, 1/2 hour a side. Good insurance since I am running 100HP over stock in my SC.
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Old 06-03-2013, 06:13 AM
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Two of those choices don't fit your car.
If you're just changing the boots these are the ones you want (plus 8 gaskets)
Pelican Parts - Product Information: 923-332-037-00-M84
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Old 06-03-2013, 06:25 AM
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Snap ring pliers will be needed for any of the tasks to pull the joint off.

There are some slick things I have read about but never tried. One is to flip each shaft 180 degrees and this will "renew" the thrust surfaces in the bearings as the balls ride on unused surfaces. Assuming the balls are not tired. Again, this is from reading a post or two but no personal experience.

Another is to gather up 8mm schnorr washers and VW moon plates to keep the bolts intact. Do some searches. If you use the original bolts without washers (factory setup), check them after 500-1000 miles. They will be loose more than likely.
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Old 06-03-2013, 06:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pete3799 View Post
Two of those choices don't fit your car.
If you're just changing the boots these are the ones you want (plus 8 gaskets)
Pelican Parts - Product Information: 923-332-037-00-M84
There are no bad noises or apparent damage to the joint itself, so I think I shall go ahead with just the new boots, minor hardware, and some grease.

Then I can take off the half axle, clean it, and reassemble with new boots.

Essentially, getting the contents of the $130 kit, except without the $42 in bolts.
Pelican Parts - Product Information: 923-332-037-00-M84
Pelican Parts - Product Information: 928-332-257-01-M395
Pelican Parts - Product Information: SWE-101
Pelican Parts - Product Information: 923-332-297-00-M30
Pelican Parts - Product Information: 999-041-012-01-OEM

Oddly, the kit also contains the following two items with a quantity of 0, which doesn't make sense:
Pelican Parts - Product Information: 999-523-103-01-OEM
Pelican Parts - Product Information: 999-095-019-00-OEM

Does that sound good?
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Old 06-03-2013, 07:04 AM
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do one side then after you realized what a mess it is, you may consider doing the other side or put it off until a boot tears again. it's messy but if the joints are good you save a lot of money over buying the complete thing and replacing it.

plus it's one of those big satisfaction jobs for the DIYer. grunts optional.
Old 06-03-2013, 07:04 AM
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I have just done that (disassembling and cleaning the CV joints = Gleichlaufgelenke in German ;-)
I found that two of the CV joints were badly pitted (the inner races), although there was nada bad sound. So I think it's a good idea to check them, but be sure to not mix up parts and positions if you take them apart!!!

- Manfred
Old 06-03-2013, 08:08 AM
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With 240K on your car I would be very interested in disassembling and examining the balls and races. While this job is messy, the heartbreak of a broken CV and that axle flapping around your valuable transmission case is worse. The amount of caked grease and dirt tells me your CV joint is toast.

Do your records indicate a replacement - by miles? I always mark the axle shaft with the date and mileage of the rebuild just FYI.
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Old 06-03-2013, 08:15 AM
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I'll check over the records when I get home. Perhaps I should wait on ordering parts until I open one up. If I discovered it is pitted and the whole joint needs to be replaced, then I can just get a complete half-shaft.
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Old 06-03-2013, 08:57 AM
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It is a filthy job. Unfortunately there's no way to really tell if the joint is re-usable until it's cleaned. If the boot has been torn for long there's a good chance it has been contaminated and the races are shot like this one:

The easiest way I found to wash them out is in a coffee can with 3" of paint thinner or kerosene, then a dunk in warm water / Dawn dishsoap.
-C
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Old 06-03-2013, 09:05 AM
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There is a lot to be said for getting a replacement set of axles. I say that having never done so, but after 2 pair rebuilds I absolutely recommend fresh CV joints if you have ANY doubt.

My story is a pair of "69k only" axles sold to me via our classifieds. When I went to rebuild them, all *seemed* OK excepting a strange colorization to one of the joints (heat?). Yup - it let go with a bang just as I was leaving a Stop sign.
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Old 06-03-2013, 09:18 AM
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I have a factory LSD, I do hard launches with a 3.6. It sucks having a breakdown far away from home. Rebuilding CVs is a ......never again for me.

Thank you AAA.
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Old 06-03-2013, 09:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theiceman View Post
to do a proper job of it you need to take the half shaft off , disasemble the cv joints and clean all the old grease out with a rag and then warm soapy water ( not solvents ) .
Explain to me why you can't use solvents? I cleaned mine up in my solvent parts sink. The solvent dissolved the old grease nicely. Dried them thoroughly with compressed air, reassembled, new grease, good to go.
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Old 06-03-2013, 11:18 AM
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Josh D,
Using solvent on bearings leaves a film of solvent on them even if you can't see it or feel it, its there. That film will keep the grease from lubricating the bearing properly.
Just use soapy water and towel dry.
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Old 06-03-2013, 11:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Bob View Post
Rebuilding CVs is a ......never again for me.
Why Joe Bob. It's not the toughest job in the world. A bit messy, but relatively easy.
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Old 06-03-2013, 11:26 AM
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Easy, yes.....measurable tolerances?

Negative....hit and miss.....I'm too pissy to do redoes....CVs irk me......stinky crappy grease and no results beyond.....run it until it breaks or whatever......

Never trust balls that have crusty cages.....I'm too old to get stranded even with a AAA card, cell phone and a .357 Magnum.

I'd rather spend a few extra dollars.....

Now other items.....I WILL do repairs....bearings....NOT.
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Old 06-03-2013, 11:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Bob View Post
Easy, yes.....measurable tolerances?

Negative....hit and miss.....I'm too pissy to do redoes....CVs irk me......stinky crappy grease and no results beyond.....run it until it breaks or whatever......

Never trust balls that have crusty cages.....I'm too old to get stranded even with a AAA card, cell phone and a .357 Magnum.

I'd rather spend a few extra dollars.....

Now other items.....I WILL do repairs....bearings....NOT.
Fair enough.
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Old 06-03-2013, 11:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Targa Me View Post
Josh D,
Using solvent on bearings leaves a film of solvent on them even if you can't see it or feel it, its there. That film will keep the grease from lubricating the bearing properly.
Just use soapy water and towel dry.
Yeah, not sure I buy that argument. I've been cleaning bearings in solvent for many years and then thoroughly dry with compressed air before regreasing. I've never had a bearing failure after serviceing. Solvents evaporate you know.
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Old 06-03-2013, 11:38 AM
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Just make certain the bolt are not frozen, when removing make certain the hex is square.

Yes, dirty job but you will know your car much better

I have spare rebuilt Axles just for these occasions

J

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Old 06-03-2013, 11:45 AM
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