repair oil reservoir ??

[ty901]

i am getting some seeping at part of the tank. now i know why
what would be the recommended method of repair? would POR-15 or a 2-part epoxy-type adhesive suffice or should this be brazed?
all feedback appreciated.
TIA
jerry

[Two Rivers]

Braze it or just solder it. Looks like you have it clean.

[304065]

it is steel- tig it

[cgarr]

Unless your very good with a tig I would end up with a lot bigger hole lol Braze or silver solder.

[ty901]

i am not set up to TIG. i can MIG, tho. it IS steel & the reason i didn't think of solder is that i associate it w/ copper & brass. i do like the lower heat required.
gonna give it a shot.
thanks all!
jerry

[john walker's workshop]

braze, regular solder or silver solder. flux it first. brazing will require more heat.

[KTL]

What year is it? If it's not an unobtanium tank from the early 911 years, then a used tank would be a good backup. 74-89 tanks are a dime a dozen these days.

[Jdub]

Silver brazing would be ideal. Be sure to clean it scrupulously, and use the proper flux - highly flouride based and is a b*&tard if you inhale it. A little trick is to apply flux, heat gently, then let cool. Remove the flux and the dirt it is so good at lifting, then reapply and do the actual brazing. I have a ton of experience on this if you want to PM me.

Use a small #3 tip or so to do this (Smiths equipment ref.). Any bicycle framebuilding outfit could handle this if they have portable tanks.

But since this is not under pressure, I wonder why you could not do what we do with old Amal carbs - put together a two-part filler and have at it. That results in no heat, no fried items inside the tank to mix with your oil, and is easy to procure and

[ty901]

'72
otherwise i agree whole heartedly.

Originally Posted by KTL

What year is it? If it's not an unobtanium tank from the early 911 years, then a used tank would be a good backup. 74-89 tanks are a dime a dozen these days.

[ty901]

jdub;
your response was cut off, but by '2-part' do you mean 'all metal' type, J-B weld, epoxy ?
i have access to all of these. i guess my only concern using a 'cold' repair is getting the area clean. cold this be accomplished w/ your 'flux-heat-cool' trick?
thanks to all.
jerry

Originally Posted by Jdub

Silver brazing would be ideal. Be sure to clean it scrupulously, and use the proper flux - highly flouride based and is a b*&tard if you inhale it. A little trick is to apply flux, heat gently, then let cool. Remove the flux and the dirt it is so good at lifting, then reapply and do the actual brazing. I have a ton of experience on this if you want to PM me.

Use a small #3 tip or so to do this (Smiths equipment ref.). Any bicycle framebuilding outfit could handle this if they have portable tanks.

But since this is not under pressure, I wonder why you could not do what we do with old Amal carbs - put together a two-part filler and have at it. That results in no heat, no fried items inside the tank to mix with your oil, and is easy to procure and

[Porboynz]

I had the same issues with a '72 tank about 15 years back, rust pitting where the plastic washers fit between the tank and the body and across the top of the tank where mud and crud collected. These tanks are real hard to find and not the cheapest. I went the brazing route, followed up with a 2 pack paint finish. It may be that lower temp sil-fos (plumbing) and a MAP torch might do the job if you get the easy flow type sil-fos with the higher silver content. Either way be sure to clean it thouroughly to make the job go easier. The tank still looks good now, no leaks. Touch wood.