Originally Posted by scott.k (Post 6218648)

Haha, tony, yes your first sentence is most definitely correct. I realized that much when the motor tried to start. When I get the chance, I was planning on testing it without the relay and just using a wire (i was getting there). To answer your question "Who advised you do this test (connecting 87a-30 of the FP relay)?"- Bob has been a big help to me doing this test thus far and he was the one who I have been working with who has been guiding me through the test. That said on this part, we have been trying to figure it out, I am not blaming him for anything, and as far as I aware, nothing bad happened that a blame needs to be issued for.

And personally, in response to "you are totally doing it the wrong way!!!!!" I think I am well along on the right track, using a direct wire lead from the two female terminals was the next thing I was going to try.

But that said, thanks for the help, and the wiring suggestions that you gave.

-Scott

Originally Posted by boyt911sc (Post 6218701)

Scott,

I read your post a few days ago when I was in Carmel, CA while enjoying the cool California breeze. When I saw that Bob was assisting you in your troubleshooting, I knew you were in good hands. In the short time I have come in contact with Bob, he has been very sharp and direct in his analysis.

When I asked you who suggested the test, it was just a figure of speech and was not expecting to get a name. At any rate, I consider Bob a very effective and helpful troubleshooter in this forum. He's a valuable asset and I have high regards to his abilities.

Tony

Originally Posted by tirwin (Post 6218693)

Scott,

I just saw this thread. I can post a pic in the morning but you need to look at pg. 240-11 in the Bentley manua if you have itl. You need a fused jumper and a switch. I did this recently myself. I went to my local auto parts store and bought a 50 amp switch, a mini-fuse holder w/ 25 amp fuse, 14 gauge wire and some bullet connectors. You want to use that to connect just relay pin 30 to 87a. Remove the fuel pump relay of course. Turn the ignition to on position (not all the way to cranking). Then you can flip the switch to turn the fuel pump on and off.

Originally Posted by boyt911sc (Post 6218673)

Was there any particular objective why you suggested it?
Tony

Originally Posted by Bob Kontak (Post 6218697)

I have the charts - will scan and post in a minute.

Originally Posted by Bob Kontak (Post 6218743)

If you car is cold it is ambient temperature. Redding is 75 degrees so that is the "ambient" temp of your car.

Here is the converter and degress C are on the horizontal axis.

Fahrenheit to Celsius Converter

One bar is 14.5 PSI.

The dark band is the range of ok.

Once you plug the WUR in all bets are off because your WUR is not longer at ambient (cold).

The warm range is 3.2-3.7 bar. 47 - 54.

What is the temp outside there - or better yet - what was the temp where you car is. If it was 50F outside then 22psi is ok.

Originally Posted by scott.k (Post 6218687)

I just tested it out (with the gauge in line between the wur and the fuel dizzy with the valve on teh wur side).

Results:
22psi with wur unplugged
pressure rose from 22psi to 52psi when i plugged in the wur

i dont know what the pressure is supposed to be, but 22 seems low according to that video I posted earlier.

Thanks
Scott

Originally Posted by boyt911sc (Post 6219687)

Scott,

These Bosch CIS WUR's in our cars are not precision devices but they work. Those numbers you obtained (22 - 52 psi.) are good numbers and your WUR is working. BTW, what is the problem you are trying to fix? I have not read the full thread (sorry). Thanks.

Tony

Originally Posted by scott.k (Post 6219794)

Tony, thanks for the help

My engine is running lean. I used to have to prime it with the flapper to get it to start, and then it would run until the engine heated up, and when the cold start shut off, it would fall into a choppy 400rpm idle.

Not, I cant even really get it running other than the occasional choppy low idle, it usually just dies out.

Thanks
Scott

Originally Posted by j911brick (Post 6219817)

Are you sure it doesn't have any air leaks? What is the condition of the O2 sensor system? Are you sure all the plugs are firing correctly? We may need to start from the beginning and start testing in systematic order.

Originally Posted by ossiblue (Post 6018818)

Typically, fuel pressures are checked in the following order due to the need to have a "cold" engine for some of the tests: (gauge set hooked up between the fuel distributor and the wur, with the shut off valve on the wur side of the T)

1) System pressure check

2) *Cold control pressure You will need to identify the number on your wur and know the ambient temperature to perform this test. Someone will link you to the charts needed to check the cold control pressure, I'm sure.

Given your problem, this is the most critical pressure for you to check as too high a pressure will cause an overly lean cold start condition which may be part of your problem--this is the factor you want to eliminate before hunting down vacuum leaks.

3) **Warm control pressure

4) Residual pressure

*During the test for cold control pressure, be sure the wur is not energized. I am not familiar with your year system so I don't know if the wur is energized when the fuel pump is running (it is on an 82 but someone, please reply.) To be safe, you can simply unplug the electrical connector on the top of the wur.

**For the warm control pressure, you must have the wur energized and observe the increase in pressure until it stabilizes. Again, my lack of knowledge will require someone else to help here. You can simply plug the connector back into the wur or, if the wur doesn't get current while the fuel pump is running, you can simply use a jumper wire from a know voltage source to the terminal on the wur.

As for order of vacuum leaks, all areas are equally suspect. I would follow the order of checking the most easily accessible hoses and components first and move on from there.