btw, anyone got any good tips/ a good setup for getting to the inside intake runner nut on cylinder #6. I have tried to screw that nut on using every wrench combo I have, but I havent had great luck.

THanks
scott

I would like to report my results. I tried starting it up a couple times today, with intake runner #6 inside nut left off (could not reach in there to put it on.

It ran and idled at about 2300 rpms. my thought is that there is an air leak letting in unmetered air. hopefully the leak is from that intake runner not being sealed, but if not, thats going to be a pain to find.

-Scott

I dont know if this is even possible, but could the auxiliary air valve be stuck open, too much?
THanks
scott.
or maybe one of the hoses that connects to it is loose. Ill go and check

anyone got a good way to tighten that nut, any good wrench setup?
thanks

Try this.......
 

Scott,

I use this type of socket (13 mm) for the removal and installation of the nuts for the intake runners. And it works well too for the distributor nuts. HTH.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1317601722.jpg

Tony

Troubleshooting........
 

Scott,

Did the high RPM change after a few minutes? Check the AAR or the idle speed is set too high. I doubt you have a loose hose to the AAR. If you have, it won't start at all. Don't give up, you are almost at the finish line and some more effort, you'll be enjoying a fall drive pretty soon.

Tony

+1 on Tony's advice

See the swivel sockets from sears in this thread

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/628144-any-tricks-getting-inside-nuts-5th-6th-intake-runners.html

You are definitely sucking false air at #6.

Appropriate time to do the test.......
 

Scott,

It was good you did a pressure test as suggested. Unfortunately, it was done at the wrong time. What good does it do when you did the pressure test on unassembled CIS unit? The test should have been done after you dropped the engine and the CIS unit installed on the engine. Hope you did the pressure test before putting the engine back. Which I doubt.

Now that the engine is installed in the car, the pressure test would be more challenging than when the engine was out of the car. So you never checked the AAR while the engine was out?

Here is a quick test for you to do. Start the car, allow it to idle long enough (3 -4 mins.) to get to the warm control pressure. See if the idle speed would change when you turn the idle speed screw clockwise to reduce speed. Keep us posted.

Tony

Tony, thanks for all of the help. I actually didnt drop the engine, but i suppose your right about testing the CIS for leaks. I thought it would be easier to feel around the system and find leaks easier when the system was out of the car than having to try to feel for leaks around the system in the car, which I initially tried but failed to find any. Also, my exhaust system right now is worthless and im goint to be getting an new set of headers and a decent system soon (the one i have now is rusty and leaks) so running the test with the injection on the car would just loose air pressure through the exhaust.

I am going to unbolt all of the intake runners tomorrow, make sure they are all seater properly, rebolt them in, and try to get that last bolt set.

Now that you mention the idle speed screw, I think you might be right about that , I may have been trying to mess with it a while ago trying to get the car to run properly (a bad idea im sure), and I may have left it on a high rpm idle setting. i can try to test the cis again for leaks on the car but im not sure it will do much good, but well see.

And thanks for the socket wrench ideas, Ill see what I have
thanks
scott

Hello,
I would like to report that I just started up the car a couple of times and I could only get the idle down to 2k rpms with the throttle screw all the way turned to the right, which means that I definitely have an air leak thats letting false air in. I got the bolt onto that one intake runner stud but I was only able to tighten it down partially. But Im not totally convinced that air is getting sucked in there, if it was it would only be a very small amount.
Thanks
Scott

if the air leak is the case, which im almost posotive it is (what else could it be?) where should I start looking.
I was thinking:
Around all of the valves on the passenger side, I did replace the small vacuum lines with all new ones, so I know thats not it.

Any ideas?
THanks
scott

Check the brass pipe that connects to the back of the throttle body - You probable checked this when the CIS was off.

Can you plug the brake booster hose to isolate it?

You checked all of the injectors where they plug into the intake runners?

You got all the breather hoses back on nice and tight?

Tube/bellows from air sensor to throttle body is nice and tight? Hoses connected to that real tight?

I think it is time for a starting fluid party while the car is running. Find your leak tonight.

Hi Scott,

What I would do if I was serious about the leak is first, for fun, spray around the base of #6 with starting / carb cleaner fluid and see if that makes the idle increase. If so, get down to tightening it.

Tony is not that hot on this test so I will defer to his knowledge and suggest the pressure test while the unit is on the car. I found leaks with the pressure test that the cheater test did not a week or two ago.

FWIW Two years ago I found a good sized leak at the number 4 intake runner base. It made the exhaust slightly putt-putt backfire at idle - I also could screw the air bypass screw in all the way and the engine would not die but my idle could still get down to 1,000 before the fix.

After tightening - ran real real well. Mind you, the recent false air leaks found were tiny - not big like the intake runner base.

Thanks for the help,
I will recheck over the intake runners and try to find a way to tighten the back passenger intake runner bolt I was talking about even more.

Thanks for the help
Scott

Everything on that side is such a PITA. Can you pull the Aux air regulator to get a better shot at it?

took teh car to the mechanic today, who found out that the airbox has a leak, and offered to replace the airbox (box and labor)= $1800, so i said its fine and brought it home. he says that the leak was on the side of the air box where the screws hold the top to the bottom. ill try to seal it tomorrow but if that doesnt work, ill probably try to buy one off of pelican used parts.

I need some good advice, ill take anything at this point. IM tired of having this thing sitting in the garage, it hasn't ran properly in about a year.

Smog not an issue, which route is the best to take.
To be honest, I would like carbs because I dont like computers, and they seem to be pretty robust and long lasting from what ive heard. Im thinking of buying some 50mm pmo's and using smaller jets and venturis on this motor. i am planning on using a larger motor in the future and if im going to buy pmos (they arent cheap) i want ones that i can use on any motor i might have in the future.

The cis hasent been working well for me, and to get it running im going to have to put in a lot of work and possible some money into a system that I dont want to keep long term.

I know what im saying right now is partially a result of me being super frustrated with the cis system, but i want carbs in the long run so i might as well put them on now.

I put some plastic glue/ sealant on the airbox along the seam where the guy said it was leaking, so well see how that goes tomorrow.

actually, i would like to clarify something, are all pmo's the same size, they just use different jet sizes and venturi sizes?

or do tehy also have different throttle sizes which do not make them interchangeable?
thanks

One other question, before i go with carbs, im going to try to get the cis working one last time (trying to seal up leaks)

Today, the mechanic who was working on my car was saying that it was running really lean. Ive heard that running really lean can cause burnt valves, and then you out of luck.

Before i start trying to fix the cis, should i hold off to prevent ruing the motor? Will running teh motor spraying some areas with carb cleaner damage the motor because im running so lean?
Thanks
scott