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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: NZ
Posts: 41
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Field expedient 911 sticky solinoid repair
Field expedient 911 sticky solinoid repair
Probably not everybodies cup of tea but worked for me. When I got my '88 ages ago it had sat around for a while and wouldn't start without knocking the starter motor with a copper hammer as someone else turned the key. After a bit of that it freed up and I decided it had cured itself. Hadn't used if for a while, went to start it and same drama, started okay with a knocker and a turner but never freed up, a 2 person starting system isn't ideal. Getting a high torque starter organised from our host, but thats a while away. Previous experience of jet boat starter motors (which get wet and sit around and get sticky) means I could probably get this going okay, but the thought of getting it off with a G50 in the mix, then desoldering the top of the solinoid, putting it back togeather, refitting it, only to do it all over again when my High torque starter turns up was enough to sap my enthusiasm. Inside a sticky jet boat solinoid is a sort of rusty soup of oxidised copper and harden grease and other stuff, once they are cleaned out they go fine. This is where it gets ugly, purists don't read any further!! Since I couldn't get this apart easily, I drilled 2 x 2.3mm holes in the bottom of the solinoid body and stuck a WD40 nozzle hose/tube in the hole and flushed all sorts of muck out of the other hole, then I did the same with the other hole. Had my mate stand at the back with a fire extinguisher and hit the key, started first go. Probably done 100 starts with no issue. Solinoid plunger seems to be running freely now. I can tap and cap the holes with some 3mm grub screws, will be interesting to see how long this lasts, and will have my new SM standing by anyway. Could be a handy trick if you are getting the dead key syndrome and you have to get going at all costs. Some very good pics of solinoid parts in this thread SOLENOID and STARTER rebuild......finally 
Last edited by Texel; 05-15-2013 at 07:38 PM.. |
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05-15-2013, 07:32 PM
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RETIRED
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I don't have an issue with your shade tree backyard fix....but using WD40? Oi....
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1983/3.6, backdate to long hood 2012 ML350 3.0 Turbo Diesel |
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05-15-2013, 07:41 PM
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: NZ
Posts: 41
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Yes, I know what you mean, normally I wouldn't use anything but proper German Wurth Rost Off Plus of course, but the flammable warning label on that can was bigger than the one on WD40 one.....I took that as a sign!
Last edited by Texel; 05-15-2013 at 08:29 PM.. |
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05-15-2013, 07:47 PM
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Senior Advisor
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dats what were here for, many have checkbook skills, this is why many come here, thanks
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08 Cayenne Turbo |
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05-15-2013, 09:12 PM
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Registered
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Tustin. CA
Posts: 1,287
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Ha! Great thread.
I recently had the opposite problem with my SC. Solenoid gave up after 300k. It would start fine but stick 'out' in the ring gear. I foolishly tried to start the car and run around to tap the solenoid and get it to release... Pretty much nuked the ring gear and pinion... New hi torque is installed and working, still need to drop engine/trans for fresh ring gear. Cooper |
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05-15-2013, 09:13 PM
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muck-raker
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Coastal PNW
Posts: 3,059
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I'm curious as to exactly where those holes were drilled. I'd be afraid to hit something with a drill bit, but it sounds like it could be a good solution to a very common problem.
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STONE '88 Cabriolet, using EP Slick 20w50 partial synthetic Snake Oil...just as Rommel intended.  Deny Everything; Admit Nothing; and Always Make Counter-accusations 
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05-16-2013, 07:25 AM
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Da cab
