RFLOL!!!, You Funny, the low OIL and Shift Up lights are our IDIOT lights :D

If you don't have it, I will submit you can not be an IDIOT, only me since I still have both SmileWavy

CASIS, if I recall, is an acronym for Computer Assisted Shift Indicator System, or something silly like that. I have a piece of black tape over mine.

I disagree somewhat. You can shift at 4,000 or up to red line when warm.

Most importantly, avoid driving at less than 2,000 or 2,500 esp. when cold. The reason is lugging.

Avoid short trips. Drive it for 1/2 hour after it warms up as per the gauge.

Use Brad Penn or other oil with adequate ZDDP and other additives. Change the oil every year or 3,500 miles whichever comes first.

Also, don't forget to change the brake fluid every 2 years and replace the rubber brake lines and fuel lines if that has never been done.

And brush and floss at least twice a day.

Welcome to Pelican my 3.2/G-50 brother.

Good advice above, and if I may I'll throw in the "how to" for your first project.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/248149-turn-signal-switch-quick-fix-pictures.html

I've had mine for two and a half years now and it has never let me down, drive it like you stole it.

Take care

The enigmatic shift light, as far as I understand, was only a feature on cars for American export. I wonder why Porsche figured that would be useful. Maybe, at that time, most Americans were unfamiliar with a manual gear box. I wonder..

OK. OK. I am being just a tad sarcastic. :D

For Fuel Economy most likely a DOT/Tarrif requirement, like the rear seats for little people

congrats on the targa.

1) What range should I keep the tachometer in while driving/gearing, so that I don't lug the motor, or over-rev it. I want to keep this engine happy and free of carbon buildup. Right now I am keeping it between about 2.5 and 3.5 typically.

you can shift gears between higher than 3k and lower than 6k. Don't lug the engine.


2) How long should I warm up the car at startup (right now I am doing 4-5 minutes)?

Youll notice tach when you first start it running at 1100rpm. When it drops down to under 900rpm...you can go.. should take no more than a minute. do not let it idle for 4 to 5 minutes.. it just wastes gas.

3) Upon shutdown, how long should I be idling on a level surface (parked) before shutting the engine off?

1 to 2 seconds.

4) Should I be trying to let the clutch out quickly and risk some jerkiness, or very slowly and carefully (but if I do the later I smell a little rubber burning- I doubt this is good).

you'll get used to it.. get a good feel of the shift... have someone check the clutch to make sure its 100% normal. (clutch, flywheel, pedal assembly)

5) Is 91 (premium) gas OK or do I need to supplement with something? I like 94 but 91 is the highest Octane I can get in California.

91 is fine.. you can find 94 at Sear Point Racetrack. You can find 96 there too.. Ummm...why do you need such a high octane? Try googling: using high octane gas.


6) Why do I end up turning on the high-beams at least 50% of the time I am using the turn signal? The movements are very close - is this a design flaw?

should not be a problem... check the motion more carefully.

I'm in the US - but have a ROW car.

I've driven my friends US model a few time and that up-shift light drives me crazy!!!

No way would I up-shift at those RPMs

Run it to max horsepower which is at the 5500 RPM range for 1st, 2nd, and 3rd gear if traffic flow allows it. The car will scream and you won't believe how much fun it is. The car can take it - I have over 180k on the clock and the car runs like new. Engine's never been opened. You'll never get the car's potential shifting at 3500 RPM's. She'll feel like a dog.

Try it. You won't believe what you have under you.

+1 Drive it like you stole it.

Also welcome to the forum, nice car.

So, after the flashlight inspection - turn signals, brights & fogs indicators, but nary an 'upshift' indicator -

Because it is a Germany delivered car?

And I agree on running up the rpms - every one I have owned just loves the upper rpms.

Great Find. Enjoy your car. Use common sense

I start and let mine sit for about 1 minute....then I back it out of the garage.

Meanwhile the cassette tape from the original (and old) stereo is allowing me to find a starting point for the trip. Into the cul-d-sac where it sets for another minute while I put on the seat belt and adjust the volume. Several rock artists from the 60's, 70's, 80's, 90's, and 00's come to mind

Gently into first, and gently into second as I head for the main roads. Just letting things warm up. Not more than about 3-3500.

As the needle begins to rise so does my discipline, usually after about 10 minutes the temp is above the lower "block", the tranny is warm, shifting is casual, and the drive is ready to begin.

No drag racing, not this design, blow them away in 2nd and 3rd (as allowed), back off and wave as they pass you...:>)...you will understand the difference.

0-ignition cutoff, you decide how to drive your car.

Great sounds happen above 4K, but is not necessary to truly enjoy your car.
The occasional burst to the rev limiter will keep most happy, and busy.

This is an extraordinary automobile, enjoy it, don't abuse it.....200K is very reasonable (if properly cared for) before major work.

I usually let mine sit in the garage for about 30 seconds, after the drive, before ignition cutoff, seems to work for me, no smoke on start up.

Try to drive it at least until everything is warm, 20-30 minutes.

Enjoy, wave

Karl
88 Targa

Could you elaborate on the reason why you should let turbos idle before shut off?

It is to allow the compressor to cool and allow the hot oil to circulate out of it. If it is shut down quickly after a hot run the oil can burn in the compressor and lead to premature wear. This is the purpose of a Turbo timer anyway, at least at my bbasic understanding. Someone please correct me with specifics if I am off.

I understand the need for cool down can be avoideed by simply staying off boost for the last minute or two of your drive.

Imagine the turbo impeller shaft spinning at 60K - 100K RPM and shutting off the pressure feed for the lubrication. Turbo spools down w/no oil flowing past critical bearing surfaces, getting unbelievably hot and heading to thermal breakdown. Not that there isn't any oil there, it's just not really moving so it just gets hotter and hotter and hotter . . . .

^^this^^

That said, regarding the shift indicator light - think of it more as a suggestion rather than a requirement. It's designed to light up to indicate when you can shift either more efficiently (to save gas) or more powerfully (to speed up acceleration) depending on what the car "senses" you're trying to achieve. Many find it annoying and disable the bulb or stick a piece of tape over it, while others (like me) simply learn to ignore it.

Great car - good luck

Why would you think that?????

Manufacturers wouldn't do that.

That's like the guy on here that thought Porsche 'decided' to put 80 mph speedos in 911's in the early 80's... NOT... Fed's idea, along w/ 55 mph speed limits.

Our beloved EPA mandated upshift lights in most cars for several years... they even wanted buzzers to go on this the light.

And... here we go... they are coming back, at least in Europe with the new Greenie Eco fervor.

I love that my '85 Euro doesn't have those shift lights.

umfan866 - one thing you can do your new 3.2 is to go with us on the NorCal fun run and will help open it up and clear those carbon deposits. :)