Help...Spacers for Trailing Arm Bushings

[avi8torny]

So I ordered a set of Poly Rear Trailing Arm Bushings (not spring plate bushings) from PP part number PB008P and according to the photo of the parts, the set comes with the spacers which are depicted in red. All you get are the bushings!!!! My old spacers were spent from pounding them out and Pelican says that there not available separately, that they only come with the OEM bushing.

I called PartsHeaven to see if they didn't want to separate the spacers from a usable part....which they want to sell complete.

Any suggestions? I need four spacers.


5_1.2c

[Tyson Schmidt]

If you are going to drive this car on the street at all, don't bother putting in the poly-bushings. Just buy the originals. Seriuosly.

If it's a dedicated track car, then call a Porsche salvage yard and ask them.

[Formerly Steve Wilkinson]

The trailing arm needs to move in three dimensions. Poly bushings limit it to two. Track or street, you're totally screwing with what the gentlemen who designed the suspension intended if you put in solid bushings.

Stephan

[Joe911]

tdowling -

I have also heard that the plastic bushings installed on the inner arm have a tendency to bind as they lack the abilty to move as indicated by the other two posts.

This is why the racers use the monoballs. Unfortunately I threw away my old bushings/spacers when I converted by 69 to monoballs... but there must be someone out there who is installing monoballs as we speak and has them???

On the other hand - just how bad is it when they bind???
Either way - best of luck

[kwikt 911]

Been there done that.If you need the OE steel sleeves and coller, you're wasting your time installing them in the poly bushings. THEY DON'T FIT. Unless you machine the poly bushings to accept them. You would be time and $$$ ahead installing oem bushings because you know they fit properly. Besides that oem bushings last what, 20+ years. If you know anyone else looking for a set of poly bushings I have a set for sale.



Kevin Kipta
72 911T/E

[joefrantz]

Had a similar experience. I had new wheel bearings pressed into my TA's and asked the shop to press out the old TA bushings at the same time.
He didn't understand that the steel "cups" had to stay in place, and I didn't spell it out for him.
Expensive mistake.
I tried several alternatives and ended up buying new OEM bushings and separating the steel inserts. I think it cost about $30.00 per side.
The poly bushings are sized to accept the 14mm bolt directly, so you won't need the inner sleeve.
I've seen concerns raised about both the wear aspects of the direct bolt-to-poly contact, and the lack of 3-d movement.
The concerns seem to be credible, but I don't have experience with either yet because the car is still in process of restoration.
Joe Frantz

[RoninLB]

IMHO, plastic and mono-ball trailing arm bushing do not belong on a street 911

[gaijinda]

There you have it Brother T - go for some OEM bushings and return the poly for credit..

[Jdub]

Four needed, they are about $25.00 apiece. Pelican doesn't list them because they are so expensive.

John

[tobluforu]

I went through this about 3 months ago. Get the oem bushings.
And who say's monoballs can't be driven on the street. I drive my 72 about once or twice a week with them and they do just fine.

[tobluforu]

If you really wat to stick with the poly, I have the inner sleeves. Their yours for free.

[avi8torny]

After much great information from the BB, I have decided to return the Poly's because they will not work for my situation. There is so much slop with these installed on the trailing arm and carrier, that they are useless to me.

I ordered 4 new rubber bushings w/sleeves from the dealer for around $ 21.40 X 4 plus tax. I thought about the monoballs but they will come later if and when I make this a dedicated track car.

I am going to stay with the Poly spring plate and sway bar bushings, carefully using plenty of synthetic lube insure they rotate freely. It was definetely worth pulling the motor and transmission on this job...the valves have been adjusted, spark plugs replaced and a general inspection with all the componants out of the way yielded no major leaks or problems to tackle except for the wiring to my reverse lights.

Thanks to all for the information....I probably never would have undertaken a job like this without the board and Customer Service at Pelican.

Pictures to follow

[RoninLB]

tobluforu...excuse me for distrubing you. I was giving an opnion. That is what IMHO means in a humble way. I did not say you can't drive then on the street. You can install roller skates under the trailing arm and have a really fun time. How did you install the zerk fitting and enclosed space on the mono-ball?? Possibly it's a garage Q?? An air conditioned garage should prevent humidity from, welll...........
avi8torny....I did poly spring bushings and spent time hand fitting to remove any high/squeaky spots. I used this plastic bushing grease that is different than suspension/wheel brg. grease. Handles like gorilla snot, you touch it you wear it. Only one squeak at extreme suspension travel in one bushing only in 30,000 mi. Some suspension flex, IMO, helps keep the body from twisting/stressing. You got that covered in the rear w/stock trailing arm bushing.

[tobluforu]

Damn! Gone from the board for 24hrs and I get flamed. You didn't erck me what soever. I was just stating what I did. And yes If I was able to install zerk fittings like I did to the inner and outer bushings(no bushings on inners) of the rear torsion bars I would of. I like my caulking gun that's filled with grease. Can squeeze fair amounts of grease up there. But like Rob at S CAR GO said " these will wear out faster than you think." Oh well. I built my car to be driven about 3- 4000 miles a year and to be auto x. Plus I think i'm way cool with this setup
Cheers

[RoninLB]

Tobluforu...good info to pass along, thanks.