Well, you have to admit, the gear looked wasted in the 4 th photo.
There is little in there to go wrong.
The picture of the gear Ronin posted is the wrong gear but yours are looking good.
Check the cam timing so you know, there is a lot of stretch in 65k miles. I would set it to top spec, better low end and response. If they catch you going too fast in Canada, they own the car.
Bruce

Yeah, #4 was with an iPhone 4 a bit too close :eek::eek::eek:

You are pretty close on speeding in some of our Provinces :mad::mad::mad:

Al right, I'll check the cam timing and set it to top spec... as soon as I figure out what it is and how to do it :D:):D

45 years of dreaming to own one and having own one for less then 2 years leave result in a big learning curve ;)

Cheerio

JJ

the sprocket i posted came from that dealer's site in Willoughby Ohio with a name starting with S
It was best i could find for comparison under the correct part number. I think the intermediate shaft sprocket has a different number of teeth and is considered the "driver" in the system

besides knowing that if you have to change one part of the chain and sprocket package you should change them all the rest of their wear and tear evaluation is beyond my pay grade

chain rails get R&R any time i have to open the system up... but that's just me working on my car

Good Sunday morning. :)

Where did you get the 2 small O-rings for the banjo shaft from?
By "plug", you may be referring to the pivot shaft for the idler sprocket assembly?

Anyway, I would test the idler hydraulics by compressing it with large channel-pliers. Should be a fair bit of resistance.

Cannot see in the pictures how much travel is left for the idlers. I usually look at the amount of travel left before the assembly runs out of space when the inevitable wear in the sprockets/chains occurs over time.

I'd definitely check the cam timing. Lots of help for this procedure in the manual and here.
You'll need the Z-block and a dial indicator with a LONG actuator pin to reach the valve collar and the P9191 tool. (Picture)
Always turn the engine clockwise when checking timing and if you need to re-adjust, use the threaded end of an old spark plug to pull out the pin in the cam sprocket. Easiest way is to loosen all valves by backing off all adjusters. Then only set the clearance for #1 and #4 intake valves to 0.01 mm and check/set the timing for your engine following the procedure. You also need to keep the chains tight with tension on the idlers. (Picture)
Adjust the other valve clearances after cam timing is finished.

Read and study the procedure and make sure you get the right specs for your engine. Check the final adjustment several times by rotating the engine 2-3 times.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1299426689.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1299426931.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1299427248.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1299427564.jpg

You'll notice on the last picture that I used additional components from a Starrett dial-indicator set on the Z-block P202 to make sure the indicator tip reached the collar and stayed parallel to the valve stem; very important. Also, the LONG tip assures that there is enough travel when the valve spring compresses during the timing process.

Don't be scared about all this. You'll understand more as you go along.
And you can always sell all the tools after you've finished.

Now to some WW Pancakes with Yoghurt and real organic Maple Syrup from La belle Province.

[QUOTE=Gunter;5885058]Good Sunday morning. :)
QUOTE]

Kind off...

Pissed down rain all day yesterday and wake-up this morning with 8" of white caca :eek::eek::eek:

Yes the "plug", I was referring to is the pivot shaft for the idler sprocket assembly.

The O'ring are 999-701-690-40-M17 (Carrera Pressure-Fed Chain Tensioner O-ring), $0.75 on PP.

Will read the manual and postings for the Cam timing procedure.

Thanks

JJ

Bon Appétit ;)

I would check the cam timing but not adjust it unless it's outside the spec. I believe your spec is 1.3-1.7mm. Porsche used three different specs for these cams depending on year and 3.0 vs 3.2 engines. Checking is easy, adjusting can be alot more work, especially if you are not mechanically inclined.

-Andy

Andy

The engine is a 1983 3.2

Thanks

JJ

I installed Jerry Woods type travel limit plugs below the pistons.
I found that the O-rings sealing the cover to the oil boss that came in the kit seemed loose, so I installed some of the slightly different size that fit more snug.