Tensioner and other questions

[CorsePerVita]

So I'm going to be ordering a new clutch kit and a few other things, tuneup kit etc etc...

I figure I may as well just drop the engine and go through the maintenance and do it all at once. I keep reading about all these catastrophic failures on the chain tensioners. I did search as best I could and found a few threads but nothing specifically that answered my questions. My apologies if there are threads and I could not find them, my intention is not to clutter with repeat issues. That said...

I know for a fact I have a sprung tensioner since I don't have the oil feed line for a Carrera tensioner. I'm fine with that but had a few questions:

- Is there anything I should check on the sprung tensioner to determine its age and wear?
- Are there any upgrades for them aside from the Carrera tensioner? I read something about a safety plate. I saw a picture of one and assume that it simply keeps the tensioner from allowing it to bottom out and obliterate things? What are they for exactly? Is it worth buying?
- Are there still rebuild kits for them? Are they worth buying or can I buy a new tensioner or is that necessary?

I want to have the peace of mind knowing that I can drive the car anywhere without stress of wondering if a tensioner will give out and then I'm SOL on the side of the road.

Other question:

Oil... I don't wish to start an oil debate... but I plan on adjusting the valves as well and getting that done and out of the way. I have heard mixed oil weight information in various threads and just want to ensure I am using a weight happy for my 911. It's an 82' 911 SC, she's got about 180,000 miles on her. I use Brad Penn in my 914 and that only. I was told "That is great for a 911 as well" - however, the weight available that I have is 20-50, is that fine? Or do you recommend a different weight for these?

This time of year it is starting to warm up. Our days are about 30-40f outside with highs in the 50s and 60s and such. It's no longer "freezing ass cold" outside anymore like it was in december (hitting -15F a few times).

I am new to the 911 engine, so I want to learn as much as I can and want to make sure it's getting the maintenance it deserves.

[Oh Haha]

IMO, the carerra tensioner upgrade is the only one you should consider. it's been proven over many years. With the engine out, installation would be pretty easy.

Brad Penn 20W50 is what I use in my SC with close to 150,000 miles. I would recommend you use it as well.

[tharbert]

I had a failed mechanical tensioner.... I ordered the collars (safety plates) as it seemed an inexpensive "peace of mind" thing but I really hadn't thought it through. The collars do only as you suggested: stop a failing tensioner from totally collapsing. They do not help a tensioner once it's too weak. Mine had already failed. When I got in there, I saw that the PO had installed them and, to my horror, one had broken in half and only part of it was sitting in the chain housing. Fortunately, the other half was sitting in the sump screen. So, I am firmly in the "Do not use the collars" camp.

How to check? I could squeeze my bad tensioner shut between thumb and finger. But, really, if it's making that "chain in a trash can" sound at idle or deceleration, you need to get it fixed ASAP. Failing tensioners can potentially cause catostrophic engine damage. Even if yours are fine, I believe this to be a worth while upgrade.

You tried to brace yourself from the inevitable "try the search function" but you're gonna get it anyway. If you want the peace of mind the collars "should" provide, there is a post where someone describes taking the mechanical tensioner apart and placing some washers inside, effectively doing the same thing as the collars but with zero chance of releasing shrapnel into the engine. There are also kits to rebuild the mechanical tensioner should that be your preference.

So, I bought the oil fed tensioner kit from our host. It came with everything I needed except an early oil line. It's a little daunting but a totally doable DIY job using the "how to" instructions in the tech articles here. Once I removed the rear tin and muffler, it was totally accessible. I even spent a few evenings polishing the new covers.

Yes, you should replace the chain ramps while you're in there. The ramps get beat up from the chain slapping as the tensioner(s) fail. I think you can get to all of them but it's a bit tricky.

When you replace the mechanical tensioner with a hydraulic one, a bushing is used to align the idler gear correctly. The kit should contain the bushings. Some folks argue that you need to install the "correct" idler and not use the bushing. That can add considerably to the parts tabs.

Hope this helps,
Tom

[CorsePerVita]

I appreciate the feedback guys. I have no idea as to the condition of mine. I plan on checking it very soon. The engine sounds as tip top as can be. I just wish to be proactive in maintaining my car, than be the guy who has something bad happen and then go "FUUUUUUUUUUUU" when something goes out.

I planned on checking it while the engine is out when it's time to do the clutch.