Oil Tubes Removing and Refurbishing

JJ 911SC · JJ 911SC's Garage

I was comtempling to buy new ones but I did a search on how to remove them instead of destroying them...

I find a thread that mentioned Bandit Clip but there was no pics, so I decided to take some pics and documented while doing it. 2 of mine showed sings of leakage.

New seals and clip is $10.25 per tube

Removal time was about 30 minutes for the 4 tubes

Cleaning about 1 Hours for the 4 tubes

I'll repost when I'll installed them.

I started with the passanger side ones and save the one underneath the oil pipe last. Also the Circlip was jam on the oil pipe so I snip it.

1- Remove and slide down the Circlip (less then $10 tools with 4 different attachments)

2- Installed the Bandit Clip (hand tight). About 1" from the Circlip grove (shown after the initial 1/2" collapsing).

3- Use a wood stick (1x2) to hit the Bandit Clip alterning side (or do the double stick, works realy good).

When the Bandid Clip reach the outer tube, move back the bandit Clip and continue to colaspe the tubes to give you enough clearance to wingle the other side out (crankcase side).

4- Get a beer and start cleanning.

James Brown · James Brown's Garage

Good job. Your in luck, the engine is out of the car!!

Neel · 02-19-2011, 05:42 PM

You can use A/C garter springs instead of the snap rings.. #12, if memory serves me right.. They've worked well for me and a heck of alot easier than the snap rings, especially if you're doing this in the car!!

JJ 911SC · JJ 911SC's Garage

Doing this in the car, without a lift, on a hill, during a snow storm

Yes, rather easy with the engine upside down at waist level.

Tip of the hat for doing it in-situ.

James

If I'm not mistaking you did upgrade to SSIs. Does the oil line (photo #5) being replace during the conversion?

James Brown · James Brown's Garage

Yes, came with my SSI's, there are 2 of them. pelican sells them.

JJ 911SC · JJ 911SC's Garage

Yes, I got them on the bench and will be going on soon but not in one day

The one in the photo is about the only line that did have a leak... so I was hoping that it did not had to be replace.

Did you got it out without getting the adapter out at the same time?

James Brown · James Brown's Garage

Yes I just used a couple pair of Channel-lock pliers, on my back, upside down, with oil dripping on me. Piece of cake. BTW Swepco tastes good.

JJ 911SC · JJ 911SC's Garage

Tomorrow project.

I'll spread some 201 on my toast to get in the right mood

James Brown · James Brown's Garage

MMMMMMMMMmmmmmm

James Brown · James Brown's Garage

The hard one to remove is the top one on the oil thermostat. not much room but your engine is out that might help. Had to use a "ford" wrench and a cheater bar. There tight.

JJ 911SC · JJ 911SC's Garage

I gave up on the lack of room and removed the whole line...

As per your suggestion, I'm getting the 2 internal seals.

So, the 2 line to removed and replace is the top one on the thermostat (go think the joint between the hard & soft line was swiveling quite freely) & the one below,

James Brown · James Brown's Garage

Cool, there is an advantage to remove everything-ease of work.

JJ 911SC · JJ 911SC's Garage

Quote:

Originally Posted by James Brown

Yes I just used a couple pair of Channel-lock pliers, on my back, upside down, with oil dripping on me. Piece of cake. BTW Swepco tastes good.

Came off easy once I went counter clockwise...

Since one of my body was asking me about the back date oil hose (he is going with headers) and how they work, I put them together and side by side with the old one.

Imagining that the wrench is the engine and looking from the back toward the front of the car, it should look like this. Basically the cross over pipe is now in front of the engine.

James Brown · James Brown's Garage

And that welded on bracket will align up with a sheet metal screw in the engine tin.

JJ 911SC · JJ 911SC's Garage

I guess you loosely fited the lines to the engine and thermostat before you thigh them down or the rubber portion will adapt?

But I guess since the bracket has to line up with the engine tin screw, that one can be tight right down.

James Brown · James Brown's Garage

Yes, the flex hose has enough give in it. All just loose till there all on.

JJ 911SC · JJ 911SC's Garage

Quote:

Originally Posted by James Brown

Yes, the flex hose has enough give in it. All just loose till there all on.

James

Just starting to put her back together... Almost 50 F here today, I wish she was ready.

Anyway, did you (can you) do the final the tightening of the cross over pipe on the engine while the engine is out. Since the welded tab does line up with the engine metal screw, I'm guessing I can do that before I put my oil tube in?

Also, did you use any kind of sealant tape on the threat? I vaguely remember reading something from Wayne about that... like Teflon tape but not sure if it was a special one.

Cheers

J.J.

James Brown · James Brown's Garage

I don't use any tape, the sealing part of the hose connection is the seat, the threaded part is there just to get the two seat together. no advantage to sealing the threading parts.
Yes you can snug down that cross-over line with the engine out, it's now part of the engine assembly. Bet you can't wait for good weather!!

JJ 911SC · JJ 911SC's Garage

Perfect timing James...

Just get back from Lowe's to get some 6mm wave lock washers (2 weeks back order at Porsche @ double the price.

No tape it is.

Cheers

JJ