Tips to remove ignition/steering lock assembly?

[tirwin]

Got an '83 SC. I'm trying to remove the sheer bolts in the steering lock assembly. I could use a little advice on the best way to do this.

I first thought I would use my dremel to notch a slot in the bolt so I could just use a slotted screwdriver to remove the bolt. Problem is the bolts are set so deep and are so close to the ignition switch I can't get the dremel in to make the cut.

Is drilling the bolt the only other option?

Looking for some wisdom on this one...

[mcaterino]

The bolts on my ignition switch had slots in the tail end, and it was possible to get up under the dash with a screwdriver and screw them out the front. I've heard of a few others who have found this, although I don't think all the shear bolts are made like that. But who knows? You may get lucky.

Mike

[pete3799]

With a good sharp prick punch put a dimple in the head of the bolt at the 6:00 position
then angle the punch towards the drivers door and drive the bolt around.
Worked for me.

[tirwin]

Mike, I did not get lucky.

Pete, the prick tool trick worked, but I learned a new word. PATIENCE.

Thanks everyone for the help!

[RSTarga]

I used a left hand drill after center punching the bolts. They started to rotate almost right away these should not be very tight.

[wcballance]

For what it's worth, I had success using a screw extractor set. I used a 7/64 drill bit to tap the head of the bolt and then extracted it with the #2 extractor bit. I managed to do it all without having to remove the steering wheel.

Now I just have to figure out how to get the switch assembly removed from behind the dash. I've disconnected a number of wires so I can see everything, but I just can't seem to get it loose. I'll search the forum for more clues, but if someone catches this before I find the answer, I'd appreciate any advice.

[pete3799]

There is another screw (allen head i think) that needs to be loosened or removed can't remember. It's in the lock part accessible by bending your self into a pretzel and wedging your self under the dash.

[RSTarga]

You have to remove the lower dash pad and back out the allen set screw to the right of the column. Wayne's book covers this pretty well. It's best to use one of those long allen wrenches that has a ball on the end as the angle is difficult. When reinserting make sure it's seated correctly before tightening everything up as otherwise the steering lock won't engage. It's best to remove the steering wheel and the drivers seat for better access.

[wcballance]

It looks like my set screw was missing. I see a bolt in Wayne's book that is not present on my car. I see the threads for it, but someone must have removed it at some point and neglected to put it back in. That wasn't my roadblock, though. I had to drill out the rivets from the plate on the dash that surrounds the key cylnder. Once I removed the plate, I had enough wiggle room to get the assembly out. Unfortunately, replacing the electronic switch was not the fix for my problem. I've found that if I pull on the key at just the right angle, I can get the car to start so the problem seems to be something mechanical in nature.

Thanks for the replies. Any suggestions on what to try next? Anyone need to buy what is likely to be a good electronic switch?

[wcballance]

I should add that the key moves freely all the way up to the point where it supposed to engage the starter. It's that last little bit of turn that I can't get to go without manipulating the key.

[Walt Fricke]

Hmm - sorry you took the whole assembly out to replace the electrical switch part, only to find the problem most likely is with the key.

But look on the bright side - the key still works fine in the off and run positions, just not the start position. I went through the same incantations and burning of incense. Then I wised up and installed a starter button, wired in parallel. Almost looks stock.



Otherwise you will have to replace the key portion. A guy can figure out the combination of sliding brass plates and other things which make a key lock work, in order to get your new one to be like the old one so all your keys stay the same. I couldn't figure out how to get the key part out of the lock (I had done this with door handles, and it was a snap there to see how to extract the lock barrel).

Hence the button. Works just great.

[tirwin]

Will,

My original problem was not the electrical portion of the switch either. With the electrical part separated from the mechanical part I could start the car using a flat screwdriver. The problem was that the switch would not turn far enough to the right to start the car. Unfortunately this seems to be a wear issue -- the ignition lock must eventually be replaced.

You can (a) replace the entire lock assembly or (b) wire in a separate starter switch as Walt suggested.

If you replace the entire lock assembly you will have two different sets of keys -- one for the ignition and one for the doors & glovebox. Unless you get your door and glovebox keyed to match the new ignition key. If you go with the starter switch idea, you still need the ignition key to unlock the steering column.

Some people also take the opportunity to either make the starter switch hidden or to wire in a hidden kill switch. I have yet to wire in the kill switch, but it's on my to-do list.

I don't recall seeing any allen-head screw in my '83. There were the two sheer bolts next to the switch and then one bolt near where the lock fits into the steering column.

I did it without removing the steering wheel or the driver's seat but it was a real pain in the neck. Literally. I felt like that little guy in Oceans 11 and I'm 6'2".

-T

[RSTarga]

Once you're in there it's best to replace the whole assembly.