Removing stub axle nut
 

I have to removing my stub axle nut in rear of car, as per manual, I've put transmission in reverse (it also says keep tires on ground and apply e-brake) but I can only put opposite wheel on ground and the reason I'm removing nut is to work on e-brakes.

The wheel I'm working on has no e-brake so i cannot put e-brake on to help keep axle from turning.

My question is can I do any damage when the axle turns as I'm trying to remove stuck nut.

Shouldn't be a problem. Remove cotter pin, set the socket and flex handle at 9 o'clock and slip a cheater bar over the end. Put on boots, place foot on bar and jump on it.

It's best to have the wheel on and on the ground. You may not be able to crack the rust.....unless you have a high pressure compressor and air tool.

If you can, employ the wife-unit(or friend, maybe you have a husband-no offence) to stand on the brake pedal while all four wheels are on the ground (remove center cap). The trick is torquing the nut back properly. A 930 has a "crush sleeve" between the bearings and achieving the proper torque and bearing preload requires good control over the axle nut. The manual will see you thru this. Read the manuals steps entirely before starting so you know what to expect.

Am I going to need to replace any of those parts...crush sleeve? Or can I just put things back and tighten after I replace the e-brake support plate?

I would not torque against the axles and tranny. Listen to brother WB on this. I doubt that an air wrench will get you there. You may need a 3/4" wrench and socket, and calculate your weight with length on the cheater bar.

That nut can be a pisser.

My suggestion is to take the car to a friendly mechanic with some industrial air tools and have him blast the nut off. It will take 10 seconds. Then you can re-tighten sufficiently to get you home.

If you don't have a beefy air compressor, take your socket to a tire shop and have them zip it off with their air gun and then replace the nut with your hand held ratchet and take a slow drive home.

Here is a good solution.
From:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/222537-reconstructing-constant-velocity-cv-joints-6.html#post1938096

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1117331605.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1117331631.jpg

Use shorter pipe pieces (you only need two) and tighten steel nuts on to tension the wheel studs.
This will prevent bending the studs.

Best,
Grady

I tried a wrecking bar holding the studs, but my bar was the flat shorter type and kept slipping.

Borrowed the right tool today, 3/4" breaker with the pipe from the floor jack for extra leverage. Wife in car with foot on brake to prevent the axle from moving. Came free easy with all that leverage and no worry of something breaking and flying into the side of car.

**** I just realized that was the first bolt of the job....sure hope the rest is easier!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1302822002.jpg

On to the next problem!

Can that wheel hub be pulled off or does it need to be driven out from behind. my manual says remove axle and then drive out from behind but I'd like to avoid removing anything else as I'm only trying to replace the e-brake support plate.

Why?
 

Empty,

The rear wheel hub sits on the rear wheel bearing. Once you remove the axle nut and the brake rotor, the rear wheel hub could be pulled out. The problem is, it is pressed mounted on the rear bearing and could damage the bearing during hub removal. Sometimes they do come out with no further damage on the rear bearing. But I had no luck last time I pulled the rear hub to install the wheel bearing cover. Good luck.

Tony

I have a puller and was going to pull hub by using outer spline of drive shaft as the pressure point. When you start to put any pressure here the shaft just pushes in through the trailing arm and is driven out the back. I have not put any real pressure on this as I figured that it would result in damage. See picture

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1302907653.jpg

Can i pull the hub like this or will it damage seals, gasket etc. here are diagrams of parts behind hub


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1302907765.jpg



http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1302907800.jpg

Correct.... the stub axle does slide through with minimul force. Now to separate the hub from the axle bearing you will probably destroy the wheel bearing upon removal. At least I always do.

E.G.,

All you're doing with the puller is pushing the CV drive shaft out the other end. There's a special drift, P297a, used to remove the wheel hub from behind. Yes, there's a crush sleeve between the two bearings. The 930 manual explains when to replace it, and how to check it on installation. This is after you re-assemble and install everything you've taken apart, and it doesn't all just snap together without effort. I hope you realize what you're getting into...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1302915009.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1302915055.jpg

Don't use that set-up!!!!!!
 

Empty,

Please look very carefully at your set-up (gear puller). That will not work!!!!! All it does is push the stub axle towards the transmission. Try the tool shown in the previous post. You might as well get ready for rear wheel bearing replacement if you decide to get the axle hub off the trailing arm/bearing.

Tony

Yea I could see as soon as I put a little pressure on the drive shaft that it was not going to work. the rear bears are good and I'm questioning if the e-brake is worth all this effort.

Will have to give it a bit more thought but might be best to wait until i need new bearing before pulling that all apart.

Jon,

Could you give me the two diameters on that drift and the depth of the set-back.

Slide
 

Harbor Freight - $59 on sale for the slide hammer.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1302925334.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1302925354.jpghttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1302925434.jpg

Empty

I don't think pulling this hub (and, at least on a 911, destroying the bearing and thus having to replace it, though that isn't necessarily a bad thing on a high mileage car), is a part of normal parking brake maintenance. I don't recall doing any of this when I replaced my shoes.

So why?

Walt

I believe that when removing a rear hub on a 930, the outboard roller bearing will pull the seal out of the trailing arm. If so, it'll get VERY complicated to put all back together properly...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1302937961.jpg

Your right. Servicing the emergency brake does not require bearing removal unless you want to.

Guys,

Remember this is a 930 with taper roller bearings for the rear wheel bearing.

Yes, first remove the axle assembly with stub axle attached.
Pushing on the stub axle while pulling on the hub may collapse the axial 'plunge clearance' of the CV joints and break the CV joint cages.

I would plan on fresh grease for the rear wheel bearings and new lip seals.

Best,
Grady

Your correct, normally any e-brake maintenance can be done after removing rotor. In my case the e-brake support plate has been damaged and therefore needs to be replaced. To remove the support plate the hub needs to come off first. What I thought would be a basic job in reality is a major job because it turns into a full rear wheel bearing replacement. That's because the the hub will not come out without damaging the bearing. If I pull with a slide hammer or drive it out through the rear I will pull bearing apart.. Outer part of bearing stays on hub ..see picture



That's just the way it is sometimes.

That is, unless there are two piece e-brake support plates. but of course there are not!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1302977276.jpg

I've been cornfused by this thread, but maybe the 930 backing plate is different from mine. I took the backing plate off in order to pull my hub, and then replace the bearing with the puller.