Help Removing Stubborn Intake Studs
 

I'm trying to pull my intake studs to change them out for longer to accommodate a CIS to Weber conversion with thermal isolators. 5 of the studs will not budge while trying to spin them out using a double-nutted approach. I've flooded them with Kroil and hit them with MAP gas but they will not move. The nuts will eventually spin but not the studs. I'm somewhat nervous about snapping them off as well.

Is there another technique I should try?

Kev

Get a good stud puller like this one from snap-on.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1303886984.jpg
Doesn't have to be a snap-on but it should be this type. Be carful, you still might brake some off. Use heat around the stud when pulling. Try to work the stud back and forth to help break the bond. Go slow and they should come out. The two nut technique doesn't always work with tight studs. Good luck. At least there intake studs!!!

These are good... Heat and one of these should do it but you've already tried heat. :(

WORSE Case >>> After you break the stud trying to get it out... You drill out the center of each stud and use an easy out.

You might try welding a nut to each one and use the nut to back the stud out while its still hot. That has been 95% successful for me (still had 1 break)

MAP gets it hot but not like welding. Stick, MIG or TIG, your choice. If it doesnt work the first time try it 2 or 3 times. The heating/cooling cycles can break the bond.

Use this tool plus an impact wrench.........
 

Kev,

You could almost prevent breaking any stud by using an impact wrench (modulated setting) with the stud extractor tool attached by JB. You got to be careful when using a cheater bar when extracting these studs. You could easily snap them by excessive torque. The extractor tool and impact wrench is an ideal set-up for extracting stubborn studs.

Tony

Kev, would something like this work with an impact wrench?

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Good luck,
RC

I use that SnapOn stud extractor.
On very difficult studs (and where you don’t want to risk brakeage), I have cooled the extractor, stud and head with dry ice.
Once very cold, I heat the head area around the stud with an oxy-acetylene torch while turning the extractor.
Differential expansion works every time.

Best,
Grady

Thanks for all the suggestions. I was finally able to get all of them out. I continued to use the double-nut/MAP gas heat/Kroil penetrant along with patience. Thankfully, nothing snapped. Hopefully I have the same luck with the exhaust! I think I will invest in the a stud puller should I run into any issues there.

Kev

Did you say, 'MAP gas'?

read this..

DEFECT