Rusty Package Tray 1972T

[cowboyrolo]

So I was stripping out the interior to redo the whole thing. When I pulled the factory tar coating off of the package tray, I got a big surprise. There is a little surface rust on the car, but this must have been going on for some time. Leaking window seal no doubt. The fire wall still looks good, but I may replace part way down. Anyone have a package tray they want to get rid of??

[Jays72T]

Check w/ Parts Heaven or EASY, they should have one.

[Zeke]

Your fortunate that from '72 on they are the same. There should be lot so stock at the wreckers. But the whole section and remove the Pt yourself. Just my advice from experience.

[Jandrews]

Just curious...given the situation here, is there some way/reason to create some sort of "trap-door" package tray that would allow him to retain that access to the engine? Is there a structural issue? Not sure why "trap-door" access would really be needed as those MFI engines are pretty easy to work on all the way around. Even the MFI timing belt is not too difficult to replace/time. Just thinking out loud really...the first thing that struck me when I saw that photo (after "holy cow"), was, hmmm...interesting view of the front of the engine!

Thoughts?

JA

[HelmetHead]

By looking at those pictures I'm suprised that the lower rear window corners look that good...unless it rusted from the bottom up? The rear package tray is not to difficult to source as mentioned and its really pretty easy to get out/replace with a decent cut off wheel and/or spot weld cutter.

I would blast the whole rear seat back and firewall to determine the level of rust in the rest of those areas.

Helmethead

[Bobboloo]

While your at it you should check your rear seats. You can take a screwdriver and poke from underneath the car so you don't have to remove the seats.

Check the Pelican classifieds too. There are usually cars being parted and sometimes people sell the sheetmetal as well.

[cowboyrolo]

One rear seat has about a quarter sized hole, made by me and the rust
But the rest of the metal is solid, I'm very surprised.

Rear engine access is pretty cool though.

I was already planning to drop the motor, so I'll do that and evaluate before I get parts.

[sballard]

Could be a great opportunity to create a "hemi under glass" look - maybe call it the "Boxer Under Glass."

Seriously, I wouldn't think that a trap door tray would be a good idea. If your engine smokes or drips oil anything like mine, you'd get asphyxiated in no time.

[cowboyrolo]

I can't be believe it's been 4 years since I've worked on my car. In the mean time I've changed jobs twice and remodeled my house. Now it's time to get the Pcar on the road!

Working today on dropping the engine and I've got everything just about ready to go. The only thing holding me up is the hard oil line. It doesn't look like any of the pictures that I have. It only has 1 nut and I don't want to force it to hard, does it separate at this joint?

[RSTarga]

In the condition it's in I'd just cut it and work on it after I dropped the engine.

[cowboyrolo]

I was thinking about that, as far as I know it's original and probably should be replaced.
I'm going to cut it...

Thanks

I just needed to hear it from someone else.

[FPB111]

Don't cut the metal part. Those hose ends are reusable. The rubber "screws" into the collar and the tapered metal elbow end screws into the hose like areoquip hoses. $$$
http://www.classicperform.com/Instructions/PDF/Aeroquip.pdf

[cowboyrolo]

Thanks FPB111

[cowboyrolo]

My first engine drop in the dirt driveway, sure wish I had a nice big garage.
Took me the better part of two days, but I'm pretty sure this thing hasn't been out in 20 years.

Now I need to find that package tray....