Dumb valve adjust questions

[NutmegCarrera]

I'm doing my first valve adjustment ('85 3.2) along with a few other things. Also dying to get back on the road for spring (which is finally starting here in WI).

In any case: Do you need to adjust the valves every time, if only to be able to get the feeler gage in? I spent quite a the other evening trying to check the gaps, but I believe I wasnt getting down to the swivel rocker/valve end interface after doing some reading. Once I get back out there, will double check that. In the meantime, any input on a "standard" method valve adjustment would be appreciated.

The more pressing item (which I believe is not a big deal) is that a couple of the valve cover studs came out along with the locknuts. Is there anything wrong with double nutting the free end in order to get the locknut off, and then re-use them? When installing, should I use loctite - or is this just a "no big deal" situation, as the torque carried here is very low?

Thanks for any feedback.

[rusnak]

Being your first valve adjust, why not make it easy on yourself and back the adjusting screw out a little? Then with the feeler gauge out, check the gap by closing and opening the rocker by hand. You should barely feel a gap. This feel will let you check the others as well.

[Jesse16]

I'd re-use the studs myself for the reason you stated, no big deal.
If you do some reading on the forum (more than can be read by anyone probably), you might parse out that the best way and I can kind of attest to this is as follows.
Use the standard method and the little gage tool available at Pelican.
Don't "check" the gap, simply adjust them all, its simpler.
Loosen the nut, back the screw a little, put the gage in, screw it down so its snug and tighten the nut. Before you remove the gage, wiggle everything and make sure the gage moves, then remove it and call it done. (not including the steps to rotate the motor to the correct position)
I've read from others that its simply a pain to try to insert the gage or re-insert the gage into the properly gapped space. If you can do it successfully and you like the fit, then no maybe no need to adjust. Otherwise, just do the procedure 12 times and call it done. Many say to not "agonize" over it, you'll be doing it again in 15k.
Again, do lots of "valve adjust" reading and go from there.
I've done valve adjust twice with engine installed and once with engine on stand.
Was hard the first time only.

[E Sully]

I always loosen and adjust the valves every time. It is difficult to get the feeler gauge in without loosening the adjuster, but it can be done.
I also have a few studs that come out with the nut. I have recently cleaned them and put some blue locktite in using the double nut method. It will help to make sure they won't loosen up while in use.

[NutmegCarrera]

Thanks, fellas for confirming my suspicions on both of these items.

The good part of this "service" that I'm in the middle of: I was able to confirm that the main studs (to case) hadn't broken off as I've heard many horror stories of. I unfortunately am changing out the oil return tubes, which is a miserable task (but not as miserable as the condition of the old ones - leaky!!!).

Doing new plug wires for first time in life of the vehicle (from what it looks like), a new Cyl head temp sensor and new cap & rotor.

Can't wait to see the difference!!!!


Thanks again.

[2.70Racer]

Using the Backside Method there is no need to loosen every adjustment.
With this method you only need to adjust the valves found out of spec.
Simply try to insert a NO-GO .003" feeler between the rocker and cam. If the .003" feeler slips in, it tells you that valve at the elephant foot is loose and over .0042"
Likewise the GO .0025" feeler should slip into the gap at the rocker and cam. If it will not slip in the adjustment at the elephant foot is tight and less than .0035"
Remember you are doing this when the rocker is on the base circle of the cam.

[dshepp806]

Good luck Nutmeg! Whatzup with your CHT sensor?

Best!

Doyle

[ivangene]

yea IDK... looseing everyone and then setting it sounds like a waste of time and a high chance to have to do them all again till you get the feel down.. I found a couple that were so damn snug withoug changing them that I actually figured out what it meant to be right.. I had set them too loose and had to re-do them... had I not checked them I would have never known

lastly after getting them "all right" go back and check them all one more (or two more) times... you might discover some looser than you thought... I did

[NutmegCarrera]

Doyle-
Thanks for the good thoughts.
I'm upgrading to a 2-wire CHT, along with trying to sort out any problems that I may be having. Car stumbles a bit, and I'm trying to straighten out anything that might be less than kosher. I'm expecting that the plug wires, cap and rotor are going to be the big hitters - but would like to make sure everything possible is up to snuff. I'm going on year #3 of owning the car, and feeling my way through all of the meaningful stuff.

Will let you all know how it turns out, but may be a couple of weeks. (I picked up a nasty strep infection this week, which has trickled through my household. - I was out from work for 3 days). Wife works this weekend, nights. (=me with kids, no garage time).
Son's b-day is next week and party on the weekend.
Hoping to drive the car sometime in early june....

[HarryD]

One other tip:

Since I only do this every 3-5 years, before I start, I take out my micrometer, set it to 0.004", oil my feeler gauge, and practice sliding my 0.004" feeler gauge in and out of the gap. I try to get a sense of the "magnetic pull" you are supposed to feel when you are doing the real thing.

[ivangene]

that's a good idea!!

as for the kids....I have to ask ages because there is nothing more fun that wrenching time WITH the kids!

My 11 year old put my valve covers on and the AC compressor ALL BY HIMSELF... and I didnt re-check his work (hard to NOT do...) with some direction, he was able to accomplish the jobs!

[dshepp806]

Originally Posted by NutmegCarrera

Doyle-
Thanks for the good thoughts.
I'm upgrading to a 2-wire CHT, along with trying to sort out any problems that I may be having. Car stumbles a bit, and I'm trying to straighten out anything that might be less than kosher. I'm expecting that the plug wires, cap and rotor are going to be the big hitters - but would like to make sure everything possible is up to snuff. I'm going on year #3 of owning the car, and feeling my way through all of the meaningful stuff.

Will let you all know how it turns out, but may be a couple of weeks. (I picked up a nasty strep infection this week, which has trickled through my household. - I was out from work for 3 days). Wife works this weekend, nights. (=me with kids, no garage time).
Son's b-day is next week and party on the weekend.
Hoping to drive the car sometime in early june....

Streps' no fun,..and I wish you the best in the battle!!!!!!!!!!!!! yOU'LL GET TO IT (KNOWING PATIENCE IS not A VIRTUE,,..IT IS LEARNED/PRATICED!!!!!!!!

A fresh piece of hardware "should" provide a piece of mind within the area that you're attacking.......I know that I sometimes look at my '89 and say "sheeit,..that;s a +22 year old original part! Get it the frick out of there!!!!!!! That (alone) is basis for changing several parts out!!!!!

BEST to you....keep us posted!

Doyle

[rusnak]

I don't know about everything possible, but might as well hit the high spots. On the 3.2 you might want to clean and check the dme ground points, check for and eliminate vacuum leaks, and while you are doing the valve adjust, check the distributor shaft for radial play. You are checking for worn distributor bushings. If there is any radial play at all, chances are you have a worn distributor and you might want to pull it to have them replaced.

Don't forget to change the fuel filter, and check the fuel "filter" mesh at the gas tank.

[NutmegCarrera]

Ed M-
The kids are 7 (she) and 4, almost 5 (he).
A little young from a safety and attention span standpoint. My daughter is very exacting, and I expect that she will have a lot of interest in mechanical things. My son currently has the attention span of a mosquito on amphetamines - so he's out for the time being. Wrench time therefore is limited to when they're not trying to kill one another.
Seriously, I'm thinking of jobs that I can have them help me with when they get older.

Harry-
I like your idea of using a mic to emulate the proper gap. Will be trying that.

Will also take a look at the items that are mentioned above, rusnak.


Thanks again, all.

[ivangene]

hahahaha - thats funny... soon though.... soon!

[HarryD]

Originally Posted by NutmegCarrera

Ed M-
The kids are 7 (she) and 4, almost 5 (he).
A little young from a safety and attention span standpoint. My daughter is very exacting, and I expect that she will have a lot of interest in mechanical things. My son currently has the attention span of a mosquito on amphetamines - so he's out for the time being. Wrench time therefore is limited to when they're not trying to kill one another.
Seriously, I'm thinking of jobs that I can have them help me with when they get older.

Harry-
I like your idea of using a mic to emulate the proper gap. Will be trying that.

Will also take a look at the items that are mentioned above, rusnak.


Thanks again, all.

Thanks. For those of us who only do a given job rarely, extra practice is always good.

My guys are 15 (boy) and 17 (girl) and on occasion they help out but mostly wander around wondering if the car will fall on me and what they would do!

[sparkle84]

With the engine in the car you need 2 people (well, don't actually need 2 but it's much easier) to do the backside method. I don't know about everybody else but for me, after trying both methods, would use the backside method every time.
The big advantage to it is that you may only have to actually adjust 2 or 3 valves. As many have said it's kinda difficult to get the feeler gauge in without backing off the screw which means you have to do all 12. Much, much easier. Try it, you'll like it.
Of course there's an even easier way to do it which requires no gauges of any kind. But nobody ever mentions that. Must be a secret they don't want you to know about.

[HarryD]

Originally Posted by sparkle84

.... Of course there's an even easier way to do it which requires no gauges of any kind. But nobody ever mentions that. Must be a secret they don't want you to know about.

... and ....

[RoninLB]

Valve Adjust Tool $25 - Porsche OBD1 Interface

[sparkle84]

Thread pitch method. Turn adjustor in until you just feel contact with valve stem, back off 1/8 turn & you're done.