'84 - '88 Carrera cheap(er) DME speed and reference sensors available
 

I know this has been discussed here before, but just to put it all in one place in case it helps anyone -

The Porsche DME speed and reference sensors (the ones that read off the flywheel) are currently around $150 each.

These are just Bosch parts, similar to what is used on other cars.

I replaced mine today with sensors for an '87 BMW 535i, the Bosch part number is 0 261 210 002, called a "Reference Sensor." (BMW used this for a lot of years and on a lot of different models, 3, 5, 6 and 7, but I give '87 535i b/c I know that works)

This is the exact same part as the Porsche part, except it is maybe 1/2 inch longer, which is no issue. Bolts up exactly the same, for around $70 each.

0261 210 001 is the bosch #. Same as 84-87 325e &528e M20 eta engines.
Howard

Thanks for posting this!

Michael

Here's the box the ones I installed today came in.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1305337791.jpg

Here is another alternate part: 1996 Ford Taurus O2S 3 wire 1/2 price just splice the wires :-)

I picked up the exact same sensors about 4 months ago for $55 each, with free shipping.

I need to check the PN but the ones I got turned out to be exactly the same as the originals, but without the DG and BG tags.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1305345421.jpg

I did the same thing two years ago - BMW part numbers. You can buy a new head temp sensor with the difference.

This is a great shot. . . "I saved so much on sensors I bought a Leica!" :)

The parts are interchangable so the factory stocking the box wouldnt know which would be your use, DG or Bg.
I m glad that BMW can make the sensors at half the price of Porsche.
Bruce

For the guys who've seen these replacements, has anyone scoped the output signals, comparatively? Also,..I understand the cable lengths are adifferent, but is the cable the same? (Manufacturer, diameter, internals (specs),etc.)?

Doyle

I just used the one G50 did above at about half the cost in my 86 and it was a direct plug in and only about an inch longer, that was it!

Doyle,

I researched a couple of older threads that go back to around 2004 or 2005 that answer all the questions you ask....the short answer to all is "yes", they're pretty much exactly the same. A bunch of guys have been using the BMW replacement (Bosch) successfully for quite a while now.

....

I've had my BMW type sensors in for a few years now with no problems at all.

Just take care how you install these or any sensors. As per Tony Callas, Callas Rennsport, these sensors are liken to light bulbs and if you twist them in you will break it and have to start all over again with new ones. Ask me how I know :eek:

I recall that discussion,...pretty much interests in what the signal level outputs were (scope) and was there was any difference in cable fabrication/materials.

STILL,..a HUGE difference in price,..and thanks to all who shared this. Think I'll get some of these pups ordered for my personal stock.

BEST!;)

Doyle

Yes, I researched those, too.

I'm confident they are the same parts with the same outputs, etc. These are all Bosch DME sensors, feeding very basic signals to Bosch DME brains.

I had my car California smogged the day after I put in the BMW sensors, and it passed with flying colors (as it always had in the past). The smog numbers are exactly the same as they were 2 years ago with the original sensors. The car also runs exactly the same.

Good to know guys. Thanks.

Any hints on installation besides being carefull not to twist?

Joe Bob, I somehow got lucky. There was enough oily mess to where the sensors slid out with the slightest manipulation, just a slight back-and-forth jiggle combined with a gentle pull on the bases. I think I may have loosened an allen head to get them out, I don't remember if I completely removed it though.

I didn't even need to remove the retainer bracket, nor did I need to adjust the bracket or sensors upon reinstallation. The suckers just slid out, then gently slid back in again. Just make sure you slide 'em in all the way, just the way she likes it. :)

I bet you can give these things a small douching of PB Blaster to get 'em to break free.

Just take the bracket completely off, a clean it. Use a remote starter to bump the flywheel around, and check and clean the reference bolt. A very thin dab of clean grease may help installation of the old sensor, with a washer glued on there to set the spacing. Remove old sensors. Install the new grommet, then the connectors, then the new sensors.

So.....the 3.6 sensors.....same as the 3.2s?

Reason I ask, while the 3.2 and 3.6 share a similar EFI, the part number for the 3.6 sensor is different. 996-606-105-00-M14

Stone

That is the thread I PM you about, coincidental that ir resurface on the same day...

Thanks for the info (event the "code" one :D:):D)

Is there a specific torque to secure them to the holder?

Cheers

J.J.

P.S. Who knows, you might even enjoy the show in Albuquerque ;)

Just make certain they are the same OD as the original that you pulled and it will press in with a bit of lube.

JJ,

I'm super lazy and don't want to walk out to the garage to open up the Bentley to give you the torque specs. ;)

I didn't even refer to the torque value when I installed them. In fact, I don't remember if I even needed to loosen or tighten any of those Allen bolts under there, but I may have. Just snug them up without giving yourself a hernia, what I like to call "Harley tight". Maybe about 16-22 ft. lbs.

Do the sensors commonly fail?

I have my engine and trans out, this would be a good "while I'm in there" thing to do. And $100.00 is like spitting in the ocean at this point.

bump to subscribe

That is what I said about $3k ago :eek::D:eek:

You should be able to get the pair for $110 delivered at the border (US side).

I would say "yes". Be sure to keep your old ones for future diagnostics, you'll thank yourself later when trying to nail down another no-start scenario and you have 2 known good sensors for the job. I'd even go so far as to marking the old ones as "RPM" and "Crank", but since they're the same sensor basically, it may not matter.

Also, when replacing, make sure that each sensor is plugged into the correct socket in the engine bay near the left-hand intake manifold. It would suck to have a no-start issue just because of incorrect installation.

For $100 you can get a good used oscilloscope and just test the sensors without guessing blindly, plus you can use it for other stuff. You just need to see a 2.5 volt peak coming out of it.

I've got an 1984 Targa that appears to have a bad sensor also. I can barely see the sensor never mind get a wrench on them. Is there a trick to getting at these suckers???

From top or underneath??

Welcome aboard!

Disconnect rear strut, raise the driver side, place jack stands and chocks, remove rear wheel. you will see the two wires going into a bracket attached to the trans held by allen bolts. I would PB blast them or a good penetrating oil then remove.

Just mark the wires there and at the mounting bracket/connectors in the engine bay.

Of course remove the heater blowerr plastic hose to gain access to the connector mount/assembly.

BE CERTAIN YOU DO NOT TWIST THE NEW ONES IN, Before complete removal check the Diameter of the old ones compared to the new ones.

JimSmileWavy

F.B.B.

Welcome to the club.

Beside needing pics of your car (does not matter whether it work or not), we need to know (as a nosy group that might send you down the Garden Path) why you you thinks that it "appear to have a bad sensor also"? SmileWavy

Jim

Post # 1... Unless he is holding back, you might have lost him somewhere :):D:)

Maybe :D Oh well we tried.

Another BMW part user here - only wish I knew about the CHT (from Gregwils above) before I bought mine last year.

Wires appear white on my originals mine because the insulation crumbled off. Even after marking I succeeded in swapping the connectors - what a maroon.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1307577016.jpg

Thanks guys for all the replies. I just got back to a working computer.

The reason I thought it was the sensor is because I wasn't getting any power to the fuel pump. I jumped the fuel pump and still no start and then I checked the plugs and no spark either. All my internet searches indicate it was the crank sensor.

The car has been sitting in the garage for over three months but I will try to tackle it next week and hope I am right.

Bob