Installing a 3.2 into a 73
 

Here's my checklist, am I missing anything? Hoping to get the car on the road in the first week of June.

Engine
1. Clean motor top to bottom
2. Adjust valves
3. Pull plugs, clean, re-install
4. Clean valve covers, install
5. Remove and install RMS
6. Re-install alternator ground at closer case bolt location
7. Remove all exhaust studs
8. Install new exhaust studs
9. Install early crossover oil line
10. Install George’s headers with new gaskets
11. Install new tensioner oil lines
12. Install oil cooler with new seals
13. Clean sheetmetal, renew as needed, bead blast and paint
13. Weld-up holes in front sheetmetal tray, both left side for heat and right side for AC bracket delete.
14. Install new speed sensors, see Bosch BMW parts
15. Install clutch
16. Test fit 915, grind bellhousing for sensors
17. Install early MFI muffler
18. Install new seals on breather, engine thermostat
19. Add new seals to expandable oil return tubes, install.

Oil System
1. Take BoxsterGT’s half-made high clearance lines and configure on the car, send back for completion marked up and clamped to final configuration.
2. Remove right front fender
3. Cut off right battery box
4. Weld-up box hole, weld on bottom cooler support, weld on headlight bucket cooler attachment
5. Soft-install hard lines, Rivnut lines with rubber/metal straps or nylon straps
6. Install fender, cooler, short lines, hard lines/thermostat
7. Install oil tank, BoxsterGT’s custom high clearance lines

Body
1. Grind down SC flare welds
2. Fill pinholes
3. Grind down welds
4. Add plastic
5. Sealer primer
6. Paint rear quarters
7. Beadblast and paint rear RS quarter bumpers, install
8. Install decklid

Electrical
1. Holesaw 1.5 inch hole in body, dress
2. Run wiring loom to front fuse box
3. Install 86 tachometer and wire
4. Run fuel pump wiring
5. Convert to single battery
6. Install Steve Wong chip


Fuel
1. Get metric flare tool
2. Flare center tunnel lines with new fittings
4. Get BoxsterGT front fuel line fittings for pump and tank, supply and return
5. Remove 73 steel crossmember, install 86 Al crossmember with fuel pump
6. Install fuel tank and plumb
7. Install skid plate

Shaun,

The list looks pretty thorough and accurate. Remind me what year 3.2L you are using. If it was a G-50 car, I believe you'll need to find a 915 era carrera flywheel.

I'm glad you will have this experience under your belt, that way when the time comes for the E, it'll be a breeze:)

Good luck, and can't wait to go for a ride in this puppy. If you need anything let me know.

Rich

3.2 in a 1973
 

You also need to match the 14 pin connectors from the engine to the correct pins
in the engine compartment ( same wires colors together ) so everything works.

Francois
Done that 3 times.,,,,,,,,,,!

I've got Engine #10 covered, in transit to you.

Your project sounds like fun, though June might be ambitious.

June of which year?

you'll clean up, maybe repaint, repl. firewall pad, etc. while engine is out right?

damn seal on tranny too

While the motor's out, I'd take the opportunity to replace the vacuum lines and breather and intake manifold gaskets. Maybe send out the injectors for cleaning also. The parts are all cheap and so much easier to replace with the motor out.

hey Rich, this motor is out of the 86 I got last fall and parted out.


absolutely, in fact the E will be even easier. if I need anything? hmmmm. :)

thanks again for the good deal Ed!

June is ambitious, that's what I was thinking typing all this up. I think I'll be grinding the welds down and running a coat of POR15 on them until car can get proper paint this winter. that will save about 3 days.

thanks, definitely need to add these to the list.

Shaun I admire you.

Shaun,

What is this Oil System item?
7. Install oil tank, BoxsterGT’s custom high clearance lines

Is it a item so you get large clearance for wide tyres? If so where do you buy?

Brent

One of the red wires from the alternator to the 14 pin plug might cause a back feed in the loom.

You will know straight away, You will have power without the key on.

i didn't see anything about transplanting the Motronic DME into your car. as i'm sure you know, it goes under the driver's seat, so you'll need the appropriate brackets for the DME itself and the DME relay. you'll also need the DME electrical harness installed with connections for power and to the engine (not sure if this is what you meant by "2. Run wiring loom to front fuse box" under the electrical section).

sounds like the car will be really fun when you're finished. and remember, pictures or it didn't happen!

Hi Shaun
I've just finished my transplant on. A 66.
I would also consider:
up rating the rear torsion bars considering the extra weight
up grading the calipers ( I also used cross drilled disks but probably not necessary)
I have a swb so had fabricate axles + modify handbrake brake to fit the new flanges
Might need a new speedo as well
I had to modify my muffler so that it would fit
Good luck. Let the fun begin!

I too am very interested in learning more about what your doing to add a front oil cooler!

I have a recently purchased '73 911T with a 3.2 in it. I have a bunch of stuff to do to tidy up the install so its off the road at the moment. I have no front oil cooler right now. She tends to run about 220 degrees, but as summer gets hot and I want to drive her harder that will go up so I am thinking about adding a front fender mount cooler and am needing to research the most effective and cost efficient way.

Any tips or info you can provide is greatly appreciated!

Brent, yes, it will be a turnkey solution for installing a thermostat and front cooler on an early car that is low, has high negative camber, with very wide tires. I was running 225/50/15s on the car with no flares, very low, and -1.75 degrees negative camber. The tires just fit but would have rubbed on oil lines. When someone backed into my driver rear quarter, I opted to fix it by adding flares. My little 225/15s would fit just fine, but I have plans down the road to put on the Kumho 265/45/16s in the rear, which would again necessitate this high clearance oil line solution.

My hope is to get the motor off the stand this weekend and mock-up the lines so that member BoxsterGT (owns a local Porsche independent) can finish the lines he has provided. Once that is done, I believe Len will be able to offer a kit. I will be posting pics here of the whole thing.

Here is the car: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/534311-temporary-perfection.html

Thanks, yes, I've got a proper Steve Wong chip coming to match the headers and will be mounting the DME under the driver's seat. I expect this car will be crazy fun when it's done. When being the operative word. :)




Good advice. Last summer I tore the entire suspension apart and installed new F/R Bilstein HDs, bearings, ball joints, 19/26 bars, SC calipers up front, factory sways, adjustable spring plates. I would still like to have better brakes on it though.

thanks Hugh, it's mutual. SmileWavy

anyone have one of these laying around?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1305823192.jpg

I just used standard oil lines and cooler from a 3.2 car. My car is based off a 74 shell so the batt boxes are not an issue. I fabbed a aluminium bracket to hold the cooler in position and a protector from wheel debris. I have found the early horn grills add sufficient cooling to cope with very hard track time.