Installing a 3.2 into a 73
 

Here's my checklist, am I missing anything? Hoping to get the car on the road in the first week of June.

Engine
1. Clean motor top to bottom
2. Adjust valves
3. Pull plugs, clean, re-install
4. Clean valve covers, install
5. Remove and install RMS
6. Re-install alternator ground at closer case bolt location
7. Remove all exhaust studs
8. Install new exhaust studs
9. Install early crossover oil line
10. Install George’s headers with new gaskets
11. Install new tensioner oil lines
12. Install oil cooler with new seals
13. Clean sheetmetal, renew as needed, bead blast and paint
13. Weld-up holes in front sheetmetal tray, both left side for heat and right side for AC bracket delete.
14. Install new speed sensors, see Bosch BMW parts
15. Install clutch
16. Test fit 915, grind bellhousing for sensors
17. Install early MFI muffler
18. Install new seals on breather, engine thermostat
19. Add new seals to expandable oil return tubes, install.

Oil System
1. Take BoxsterGT’s half-made high clearance lines and configure on the car, send back for completion marked up and clamped to final configuration.
2. Remove right front fender
3. Cut off right battery box
4. Weld-up box hole, weld on bottom cooler support, weld on headlight bucket cooler attachment
5. Soft-install hard lines, Rivnut lines with rubber/metal straps or nylon straps
6. Install fender, cooler, short lines, hard lines/thermostat
7. Install oil tank, BoxsterGT’s custom high clearance lines

Body
1. Grind down SC flare welds
2. Fill pinholes
3. Grind down welds
4. Add plastic
5. Sealer primer
6. Paint rear quarters
7. Beadblast and paint rear RS quarter bumpers, install
8. Install decklid

Electrical
1. Holesaw 1.5 inch hole in body, dress
2. Run wiring loom to front fuse box
3. Install 86 tachometer and wire
4. Run fuel pump wiring
5. Convert to single battery
6. Install Steve Wong chip


Fuel
1. Get metric flare tool
2. Flare center tunnel lines with new fittings
4. Get BoxsterGT front fuel line fittings for pump and tank, supply and return
5. Remove 73 steel crossmember, install 86 Al crossmember with fuel pump
6. Install fuel tank and plumb
7. Install skid plate

Shaun,

The list looks pretty thorough and accurate. Remind me what year 3.2L you are using. If it was a G-50 car, I believe you'll need to find a 915 era carrera flywheel.

I'm glad you will have this experience under your belt, that way when the time comes for the E, it'll be a breeze:)

Good luck, and can't wait to go for a ride in this puppy. If you need anything let me know.

Rich

3.2 in a 1973
 

You also need to match the 14 pin connectors from the engine to the correct pins
in the engine compartment ( same wires colors together ) so everything works.

Francois
Done that 3 times.,,,,,,,,,,!

I've got Engine #10 covered, in transit to you.

Your project sounds like fun, though June might be ambitious.

June of which year?

you'll clean up, maybe repaint, repl. firewall pad, etc. while engine is out right?

damn seal on tranny too

While the motor's out, I'd take the opportunity to replace the vacuum lines and breather and intake manifold gaskets. Maybe send out the injectors for cleaning also. The parts are all cheap and so much easier to replace with the motor out.

hey Rich, this motor is out of the 86 I got last fall and parted out.


absolutely, in fact the E will be even easier. if I need anything? hmmmm. :)

thanks again for the good deal Ed!

June is ambitious, that's what I was thinking typing all this up. I think I'll be grinding the welds down and running a coat of POR15 on them until car can get proper paint this winter. that will save about 3 days.

thanks, definitely need to add these to the list.

Shaun I admire you.

Shaun,

What is this Oil System item?
7. Install oil tank, BoxsterGT’s custom high clearance lines

Is it a item so you get large clearance for wide tyres? If so where do you buy?

Brent

One of the red wires from the alternator to the 14 pin plug might cause a back feed in the loom.

You will know straight away, You will have power without the key on.

i didn't see anything about transplanting the Motronic DME into your car. as i'm sure you know, it goes under the driver's seat, so you'll need the appropriate brackets for the DME itself and the DME relay. you'll also need the DME electrical harness installed with connections for power and to the engine (not sure if this is what you meant by "2. Run wiring loom to front fuse box" under the electrical section).

sounds like the car will be really fun when you're finished. and remember, pictures or it didn't happen!

Hi Shaun
I've just finished my transplant on. A 66.
I would also consider:
up rating the rear torsion bars considering the extra weight
up grading the calipers ( I also used cross drilled disks but probably not necessary)
I have a swb so had fabricate axles + modify handbrake brake to fit the new flanges
Might need a new speedo as well
I had to modify my muffler so that it would fit
Good luck. Let the fun begin!

I too am very interested in learning more about what your doing to add a front oil cooler!

I have a recently purchased '73 911T with a 3.2 in it. I have a bunch of stuff to do to tidy up the install so its off the road at the moment. I have no front oil cooler right now. She tends to run about 220 degrees, but as summer gets hot and I want to drive her harder that will go up so I am thinking about adding a front fender mount cooler and am needing to research the most effective and cost efficient way.

Any tips or info you can provide is greatly appreciated!

Brent, yes, it will be a turnkey solution for installing a thermostat and front cooler on an early car that is low, has high negative camber, with very wide tires. I was running 225/50/15s on the car with no flares, very low, and -1.75 degrees negative camber. The tires just fit but would have rubbed on oil lines. When someone backed into my driver rear quarter, I opted to fix it by adding flares. My little 225/15s would fit just fine, but I have plans down the road to put on the Kumho 265/45/16s in the rear, which would again necessitate this high clearance oil line solution.

My hope is to get the motor off the stand this weekend and mock-up the lines so that member BoxsterGT (owns a local Porsche independent) can finish the lines he has provided. Once that is done, I believe Len will be able to offer a kit. I will be posting pics here of the whole thing.

Here is the car: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/534311-temporary-perfection.html

Thanks, yes, I've got a proper Steve Wong chip coming to match the headers and will be mounting the DME under the driver's seat. I expect this car will be crazy fun when it's done. When being the operative word. :)




Good advice. Last summer I tore the entire suspension apart and installed new F/R Bilstein HDs, bearings, ball joints, 19/26 bars, SC calipers up front, factory sways, adjustable spring plates. I would still like to have better brakes on it though.

thanks Hugh, it's mutual. SmileWavy

anyone have one of these laying around?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1305823192.jpg

I just used standard oil lines and cooler from a 3.2 car. My car is based off a 74 shell so the batt boxes are not an issue. I fabbed a aluminium bracket to hold the cooler in position and a protector from wheel debris. I have found the early horn grills add sufficient cooling to cope with very hard track time.

Similar list I'm doing with the 3.6

Fuel lines? I've rebuilt mine (amazon hose) also got the alternator and starter rebuilt while the engine if out. Fuel injectors are off to be cleaned. Finished adjusting the valves last night. Powdercoating stuff sent out this morning.

New exhaust and intake seals.

New o rings for the oil pressure and oil temp switch and breather gasket -

Plugs will come out and be cleaned and replaced.

How about oil cross over line (early oil line) that goes under the flywheel? How about the S line back to the tank (I got mine fire sleeved)

Monoballs on the rear trailing arms? Sound Pad? Fuel filter/etc?

I'm also replacing two of the gaskets for the knock sensors in the engine shroud.

Definitely ref sensors and cht sensors on the carreras.

Just finished my conversion although it was for a 66. Will need to make up a plate to mount the efi under seat. I also had to modify the seat frame slightly so it would clear it.

I ran the loom down the tunnel.

I'd also consider upgrading the front calipers.

You might need some bits for the oil tank as well.

Terry, I did a lot of research on the front cooler install. I decided to run braided hose throughout the tunnel? Easy job actually. Might put a fan in later. Use the elephant cooler. Best option in long run.

Good luck

Very slow progress. Sort of went wild with prepping the motor, ended up pulling all the exhaust studs and installing new ones, in addition to everything else on the list.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1307192806.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1307203460.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1307920611.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1307920625.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1307920639.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1307920662.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1307920676.jpg

A little bit of progress on the custom high clearance oil lines.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1308071389.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1308071415.jpg

a little more progress.

One of Damon's (Series900) fiberglass left side heat block off. Excellent fit on this piece.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1308534524.jpg



Test fitting the 915 cut for sensors (Bosch BMW for 1/3 the price).

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1308534619.jpg



Front and Rear factory metal lines running through the center tunnel flared with fittings.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1308534730.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1308534776.jpg



Hanging the oil lines. Rivnut tool is a necessity in anyone's box. Simply amazing.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1308534912.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1308534926.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1308534944.jpg

Got to admit I didn't read every word, but I don't recall seeing "enjoying an adult beverage" anywhere on the punch list...
In all seriousness, no matter how hard we try to prepare for any and all circumstances, be ready to roll with the punches and re-group as necessary.
-C

Nice job Shaun! I guess you dont need the riv nuts that are still sitting on my desk?

Thanks Mark. Tonight was fun with Al sheet night.

First made the fuel filter holder. It's not straight but the holes are 6mm, so if I just run an 8-10 bit through them, it would sit perfectly in line with the electrical panel made by Ed Sully.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1308619919.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1308619969.jpg



Mounting the fuel pump proved a little more challenging and rewarding. Second iteration of the top rubber mount holder.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1308620257.jpg


installed with a slight bend to better meet the mount.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1308620307.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1308620336.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1308620365.jpg


Can't wait to get the fuel lines fully spec'd on Wednesday and then built by member BoxsterGT.

a wheat beer would be great right about now Charles. This project is truly death by a thousand cuts. Adding to the list are:
install new clutch cable
install new speedometer cable
cut off rear fuel pump mount which is perfectly in the way of running the motronic wiring harness. this should be fun.

You certainly deserve a frosty one! I'm following your project with interest. My local P-rod shop recommends a similar swap when my 2.7 gives up the ghost.

I sure hope yours works out better than mine so far. Cannot get the 3.2 to idle correctly, its baffling.


Are you changing the oil tank? On my '73 the oil tank is apparently different than on the later cars and I suspect that my poor idling has something to do with this as the car idles fine when the oil tank lid is removed.

Hi Terry, yes, I'm using the complete oil system from the 86 I parted out, just POR15'd the tank tonight. I suspect it has to do with the small air line that runs off the back of the main oil inlet. Carrera tanks can be had for under $100, and they have better baffling than the one in your 73.

Long day today, got the motor, wiring and DME in along with oil line stuff, etc. First, the fuel pump I bought off a fellow Pelican turned out to be junk. Putting the original one in from my 86, it hums nicely and fuel is going back just fine. The fuel system is the best part. Turn the key, it cranks over wonderfully. and over and over, with no hope of starting. as it is the end of the day, we didn't do much in the way of troubleshooting. Swapped speed sensors. Coil has voltage and some of the terminals have voltage on the to-the-motor 14 pin plug. Too wasted to write values down but will in troubleshooting later this week.

Could it be the anti-theft system wire, a remnant of the 86 harness? there is one wire we both left alone and ran hot. no change.

My hope was running today, driving next weekend. Good to have dreams I guess.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1309125455.jpg

We covered practically every item on that car today Shaun, I still can't think of what would stop it from firing up. We should have tried my DME in your car just for the hell of it. Maybe next weekend if you still don't get it running by then?

Tim, thanks so much again for coming up today! I'm pretty sure it's the alarm. Have to check for spark tomorrow and the basics, but it is probably just that circuit inside the relay that needs to be closed.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/off-topic-discussions/616122-what-these-electrical-symbols.html

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1308619969.jpg



I like that setup! Project looks really sweet Shaun!

I have a 1972, with 3.2 engine, chip, stainless heat exchangers, short gears. It impressive. Solid as a rock, light weight, reliable. Its the best of both worlds. It is very quick!
I can't answer any technical questions, because I didn't build it. But it was done right by Rothsport, Jeff Gamroth, Oregon. With trans freshening, to total conversion was $18,000, not counting engine cost, in 2004.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1309156705.jpg

Gorgeous car!

Thank you, but that should go to Pelican Ed Sully. he did a really nice job on the panel. I made a square. :cool:

And the car now runs! I shorted terminals 30 and 87 on the DME relay and it works like a charm, engine is smooth and runs like I've been driving it all year.

now it's all down to details, and there are a ton of them, to get this car on the road.