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Front suspension disassembly

When taking the front suspension off the car for a complete refresh inculding new bushings, torsion bars, strut inserts, ball joints, etc., should you disconnect and remove the ball joint with the A arms on the car or remove the a arm and struts together and them take them apart on a bench. Are there any other tricks of the trade that tell you to do a particular step before any others to make the entire activity go smoother? is there a preferred set of steps for getting the front suspension off the car in the easiest way? I do have the Bentley manual but it addresses each repair activity as a separate item with no connection to the others. I am trying to avoid any of those "@#$& it, why didn't I do this first" revelations.

Also for any Houston, Tx area readers can you recommend a good shop who can perform a corner balance/alignment after I get all the parts replaced.

Old 05-31-2011, 08:34 AM
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Do a search on ball joints. Many opinions. The way I do it is:

Jack up the front of the car.
Remove the cotter pin and star locking washer.
Use ball joint tool in impact gun on a jack, jacked up until the front end just starts lifting off the supports.
Make sure tool and ball joint are PERFECTLY aligned and square.
Zap the gun a few times, and the nut usually spins right off.
Depending on how stuck the nut is, sometimes several heat and PB blaster cycles are involved.

Try supporting the a arms in a vise while applying enough force to remove the ball joint nut. Did that once, never again!!
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Last edited by BK911; 05-31-2011 at 09:16 AM..
Old 05-31-2011, 09:13 AM
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Oh my, I did not even try. I went to TRE and Dave helped me out. He used his impact gun and the proper tool to remove the nut. Even his mechanic struggled but finally got those suckers off. All rust welded on

I would prepare myself to go to the wrench with the A Arms removed from the car.

Also, when you re-install the sway, Wayne recommends you release/remove the bolt holding the sub-frame bar up (aluminum car-bar), this will release pre-load so you can slip on the sway bars. The alternative may tear/rip the new sway bar bushings. Ask me how I know.

Jim
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Last edited by DRACO A5OG; 05-31-2011 at 11:21 AM..
Old 05-31-2011, 11:00 AM
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Honestly, having just done this (and then removing and replacing everything 3 weekends in a row while hunting for a clunk...):

Put car on jackstands.
Remove tires.
Break open both brake lines and plug.
Loosen steering rack connector in the smuggler's box

Remove EVERYTHING! A-arms, struts, sway bar, steering rack, aluminum crossbar, EVERYTHING! at once. Six bolts with the 17mm socket, 2 bolts with the 19mm socket, 6 allen heads on the top of the struts, badda boom badda bing.

Work in peace and comfort with the entire thing in front of you instead on on your back under the car.
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Old 05-31-2011, 11:16 AM
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+1 to what Mike said.... it really makes things a lot easier.
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Old 05-31-2011, 12:50 PM
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No way. Separation of the ball joint and a-arm would be much more difficult off the car. And removal of the balljoint from the a-arm a huge pita too. Use the leverage of working on the car to service the balljoints, then drop the a-arms and cross brace together with the swaybar.

I use a BF pipewrench to remove the balljoints, and the fancy tool to install to torque specs.
Old 05-31-2011, 01:05 PM
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+1 on dropping it as a unit.

I took the a-arms up to the closest tire store, gave them the 'special tool' and they blasted the ball joint nuts off with their biggest impact gun. No charge.

...Or lie on your back with a BF wrench swearing and sweating. Your choice...

(I made the 'special tool' myself from a spare (big) socket I had)
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Last edited by aldente295; 05-31-2011 at 02:01 PM..
Old 05-31-2011, 01:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aldente295 View Post
(I made the 'special tool' myself from a spare (big) socket I had)
Please elaborate! I feel silly buying a tool I'll only use once.
TIA!
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Old 05-31-2011, 03:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zippy_gg View Post
Please elaborate! I feel silly buying a tool I'll only use once.
TIA!
+1, Interested Minds want to Know

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Old 05-31-2011, 03:55 PM
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just want to add... if you lock the brake pedal with something... I used a ski pole... you can open the line and not drop any fluid at all...left mine open for 2 weeks...I still bled them but there was almost no air to speak of....its easy !
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Old 05-31-2011, 04:03 PM
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I don't have a photo handy, but I had a large (36mm?) impact socket sitting on the shelf that I'd bought when I rebuilt my transmission (which I never ended up using).

I took a new ball joint nut and lined up the socket against it, and used a magic marker to mark the 4 notches from the nut onto the socket. Then I pulled out the angle grinder and cut away everything on the socket except four tabs to line up with the notches.

This method is only cost effective if you already have a spare socket - I remember paying about $40 for it originally.

Others have used a 4wd wheel bearing tool as in this thread:

Front suspension refreshening

.... these don't seem to be available in Oz, so I went the DIY route. Mine looks similar to that tool, without the wall on the outside of the 'tabs' (and not so neat).

HTH -

Al
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Old 05-31-2011, 04:13 PM
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I've got a spare maybe need to start hacking away:

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Old 05-31-2011, 04:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DRACO A5OG View Post
I've got a spare maybe need to start hacking away:

Cool, Jim. Then I'll borrow it when you are done building it! LOL
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Old 05-31-2011, 04:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zippy_gg View Post
Cool, Jim. Then I'll borrow it when you are done building it! LOL
Surething Doc Hope you got connected to Charlie regarding the AC stuff
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Old 05-31-2011, 04:29 PM
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Trust me guys, use a big pipe wrench to get the balljoint nut off. You will not damage anything, and there is no drama. If you need leverage, put one foot against the suspension, and use a pipe or box steel. It will be off in less than 5 minutes, and you can get on with the job.
Old 05-31-2011, 04:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ivangene View Post
just want to add... if you lock the brake pedal with something... I used a ski pole... you can open the line and not drop any fluid at all...left mine open for 2 weeks...I still bled them but there was almost no air to speak of....its easy !
Did this also numerous times and it just seems too simple.
Old 05-31-2011, 05:03 PM
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Drop the whole front suspension assembly.....



Then separate them individually for cleaning and assemble back. Or install them back one unit at a time to complete the front suspension.

Tony
Old 05-31-2011, 05:40 PM
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Wow cool wish I knew that 2 monnths ago
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Old 05-31-2011, 07:37 PM
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...and so, those calipers and rotors (and steering rack, good Lord) don't fight the feelin/ mojo?

Even when you go sportfishin, and you catch a huge salmon, eventually that thing has got to be cut up. For practical reasons. Unless this is for showin, and not for eatin.
Old 05-31-2011, 08:07 PM
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How timely! Car is in the air; about to do this very job. I've been reading threads searched under "ball joint removal" as well.

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Old 05-31-2011, 08:22 PM
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