935/rsr style front x-brace mounts
 

Anyone have details/picstures on how the front portion of the 935 style brace locates at the front of the pan?

Thanks

Justin

Check the elephant racing site - they do a version of this.

Hey Aldente, is that a Velvet Underground reference under your username??

Try here these guys are getting started making quality parts and have the 935 x brace.
D-Zug Produkte

Elephant is cheaper, quick release, sold & supported by our host at Pelican, and doesn't need you to take a sledgehammer and chisel to the bodywork to install...........

To answer OP, there are some pics in this thread, and a search reveals quite a few more: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/591826-i-did-my-own-version-elephant-racings-strut-brace.html
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1298722918.jpg

Why, yes it is, yes indeed. Was listening to Lou the other day and it felt right. Thunder Bay eh? The last time I was in Thunder Pooch (you locals call it that or is that a Toronto thing?) I borrowed a friend's soft top army jeep and drove all through town... On my way back from tree planting even further North than you! (I'm a Brampton boy originally!)

That's Hilarious!! Small world.

That's Hilarious!! Small world.

Funny, i missed seeing a 'sledgehammer to the bodywork' in this install video.:rolleyes:

DZ Chassis Brace Install Video - Car Videos on StreetFire

The hood release cable tube is held in place by one or two tack welds that can be easily released with a couple of taps on a screwdriver (86 and new cars have a plastic tube which flexes out of the way BTW) to allow the reinforcing plate to be bolted in. FYI, this step can be omitted for those that chose not to do this simple, non-structural or consequential 'modification', and just bolt the front to the hood stop points instead.

I have the D Zug brace on my car. I installed it last week. The only "chisel work" is the metal sleeve for the front hood release that is welded to the frame by the battery. Two good hits and it is released. The D zug brace is rock solid, well made, and worth the money. Gabe and Pete have done an excellent job.

BTW their mugs are off the charts.

Sounds kinda harsh HUMMMMM :eek:

It is probably best to listen to the guy who actually has one and installed it (me). The concept of "quick release" doesn't work for me when it comes to a suspension/chassis brace.

Sorry to 'ruffle your feathers', but he is using a hammer and chisel from 4:20 to 5:45, and doesn't make it look easy. Frankly, that video doesn't make me want to run out and buy......

I agree, and knowing you, I certainly defer to your recommendation. How about posting some better pics? the ones on D-zug website are rather fuzzy and low res.

what benefits do you get with the added X brace that you dont get from a regular tower brace thats triangulated?

Here is the HI RESOLUTION pix i just downloaded directly from the D-Zug products website.:confused:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1307463946.jpg

Here's the same images that have been on the website since it was launched...small and fuzzy? They're 3 times this size on our webstore, but I didn't want to be the guy that posted a 3,000 pixel width image here.

When you click on an item, and it says "enlarge" click it and then you will get a zoom control....

Here's what you have to remember, what Paul hit on...if you're more concerned about taking your brace out for groceries - its not meant for you. Its for the guy who wants to change the front end and get it as sharp as a tack, to get that pointy controlled feel that is what we not only want but really need in a rear engine car. More concerned about cornering speed than luggage space.

I bought and installed the elephant racing setup when my car was first hitting the road - guess what? That is why I developed my own brace, that one didn't do the job AND it still allowed enough flex to bend the pins in some spots where it was a PITA to remove. Last time I checked his didn't come with a MONEY BACK GUARANTEE that it would transform the way your car handled when installed.

Unless you have tried everything else on the market - you can't vouch for it. I can because I tried it, saw its failures then did what Porsche did back in the '70's, I built my own and made it what it should have been from the start.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1307463583.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1307463621.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1307463676.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1307463699.jpg

Here is an overlay of a factory K3 & the 934 to show how close we got the brace to the original setup in the race cars.

http://www.d-zug.com/media/ghostsm.png

We didn't build and test these things in anything but the best machines we have at our disposal - and frankly if they're good enough for a 934 & 935, it will "suffice" for any fairly stock car, and by fairly stock I mean 90% of the cars on Pelican.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1307462622.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1307462708.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1307463745.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1307463427.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1307463301.jpg

Well put

Reaper930,
Thanks for the pics and I like most of what I see. Right now I am trying to determine if I buy or build to get what I want and this helps quite a bit.

And, I do not plan to build a copy of the FunfGruppen product. IMO that is wrong especially given the fact you posted pictures and shared product info. As long as its priced resonably, I will buy unless I can do what I would like within reason

Kemo,
Due to the suspension design, I'd say loads on the shock towers are relatively low (compared to a coil sprung car). A triangulated brace will help to maintain certain geometries between the shock towers. However the torsion bar location points will be where most forces are transmitted. I haven't run any detailed structural analysis, but I bet that the front end tends to twist under load due to both horiz/vert. reaction forces as well as torsion reaction forces. An X-style brace, by tieing the "flimsy" front end of the tub to the stiffer area at the rear, will help in this regard. Additionally, the natural angle of the brace will help prevent upward or downward deflection of the front end of the tub (which supports the front of the a-arm and torsion bar).

I don't think a single strut bar, especially one with ball end joints does anything worthwhile since it's free to move (like a parallelogram) Triangulation to the bottom of the pan will help resist some movement but it is acting where displacements will (may)be lowest. Hence, it is probably the least effective.

My $0.02 at least.

Jurhip - no problem buddy, we help out when we can. Its about bettering the community & sharing info.