Electrical parameters of components on a C3.2 engine
 

Does anyone have a list of parameters regarding ohms, volts, etc., for a C3.2's engine sensors, electrical components, etc.?

I am having to go into warp mode on diagnosing my low-RPM sputtering problem and nothing so far has been definitive.

TIA SmileWavy

--crickets--..........--tumbleweeds--

which sensors?

Describe the problem.

Rich

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/613514-87-c3-2l-bucking-when-taking-off-question.html

I checked the CHT and got 1.082k ohms at cold and a tad higher at hot. I think this maybe it but not 100%. The "track" on the AFS has a very light groove, not as deep as I have seen others.

speed and reference sensors;
between terminals 1&2 @77degrees F 960 ohms +- 96 ohms
between terminals 1&3 >100000 ohms
between terminals 2&3 >100000 ohms

Rotor
center to tip of rotor 1K ohms

Fuel injector harness 2 - 3 ohms
or... this...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1308241763.jpg

It is all in the Bentley manual. A wise investment for do it yourselfers.

Thanks! That's what I am looking for.

You know, I actually have the manuals electronically. I didn't even think to look......
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/suppo...eys/paddel.gif

Depending on what 'cold' means in your area (105 F ambient in San Antonio? :) ), 1.082K ohms seems a little high. More importantly, though, CHTS resistance should decrease as temp increases. I'd re-check to make doubly sure, but sounds like replacement is in your near future.

HTH

Yes! Ambient or cold would be about 101 degrees yesterday. I ran the car about 5 minutes (lugging I should say to get it to warm up and reveal the symptoms) and let it sit about 1-1.5 hours before I checked it warm. I wouldn't think the head got all the way to ambient again since my IC was a little warm to the touch.

What really matters is what the ECU sees. I would check the measurements at the ECU.

A corroded connector can skew the signals significantly.

Very true, although putting ohms (which involves voltage output of the multimeter) through a comptuter terminal can be terminal for the computer, correct?

It is definitely not desirable.

The correct plan would be to remove the connector on the ECU and take a resistance reading through the connector. This is what the ECU would "see".