Just watched a you tube of a 996/997 on one... looked fine!

I have seen first hand what becomes of a car on a lift that fails...not a pretty sight at all.
I was in a garage in Toronto Canada (dealership) that services Ferraris and other expensive autos...the lift failed...car went over sideways...created over $100K damage!
The post bolts to the floor just pulled out.
On inspection...2 of the bolts (4 to a leg) had pulled out because of an air space in the concrete...lift had been in place for over 5 years.
Why did it fail at that point?...who knows...but I for one would jackhammer a hole in your floor...lay in a new pad (2 ft square and at least 2 ft deep with studs encased) and steel re-enforced.
Over kill...yes..but peace of mind is one thing that is worth it.
And remember...your wife and kids may be standing beside the car when the lift fails!!
Bob

I have a Maxjax and have used it so many times lifting the 944 and 964 for engine drops and clutch job. It was a good design.

You need to test your concrete to make sure the 5/8" drop-in anchor torques to 100 ft-lbs in 2-1/2 turns and the top of the the anchor is still below the concrete surface. If you needed more than 3 turns to achieve the torque spec, the concrete is suspect.

This is interesting... It sounds like a good way to test the concrete.

this is worth a read...

Specifications - MaxJax Lifting System by Dannmar

Most lifts with the top plate do not rely on that to keep the columns from tipping inward, it is for routing the hydraulic lines and guide cables, and keeping the floor clear. I just installed a fixed post, low ceiling lift from DanMar, it has a plate on the floor between the posts, but again, it does not tie the columns together, it just covers the cables and lines. In my case I framed my fllor myself with the knowledge I would be installing a lift, so I made sure that the locations for the posts was deeper than th erest of the pad, and that I put in plenty of rebar and mesh to make it stronger yet.

If you are concerned about the strength of your concrete, get a couple of anchor bolts, drill test holes close by your installation location, install them, then see how much torque they can take before they pull out.

http://www.babco.ca/core/media/media...11f71239769268

The best...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1308893571.jpg

measurement
 

I mounted my base plates 105" from inside to inside of the base plates. I will only be putting the porsche on it. I would not suggest going any wider than this.

The reason is you want the car biased to the front end of the lift due to all the wieght being in the rear of the car. At 105 inches wide the front arms fully extended and the rears fall where they do seems to be just about right for balance. I would go a few inches narrower if anything.

If you go to narrow it will be hard to get out of the car. At 105" apart when you open the door the back edge of the door is dead center on the main shaft of the lift. It seems to be pretty balanced at that point.

Good luck with the install.

Justin

Thanx Justin!

I've got a price on a MaxJax locally... $2,800 to my door. :confused:

There was a Garagejournal sale yesterday. I got mine for $1750.. It's from Garage Equipment Supply. It was a one day group buy. Costco has them pretty cheap.

I am liking my home lift, by Bendpak..... If I was height restricted I would have considered a maxjax...

In the second picture it still has about 2 feet it can go up. Coupled with the Liftmaseter 3800 and a high lift track, it is perfect. At 5'11" I can easily stand under it and park the Cayenne TT under it as well!





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http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1309065906.jpg

Can you explain the detail on how to modify the anchor bolt?
Thanks.

umm... isn't that depend on how wide the hole you drilled? Sometimes it is just a tiny bit wider, or not straight right?

No.

When you drive the drop-in anchor to the concrete, you drive it in below the concrete surface by about 5/8" below with the setting tool and tighten it until it grabs the concrete. Then I turn the bolt by 2-1/2 turns until I feel the tightening resistance. If it does not tighten in 2-1/2 turns, the anchor is not grabbing the concrete, and the concrete quality is suspect. With a torque wrench, I was able to achieve about 80 ft-lbs with the top of the anchor still about 1/8" below the concrete surface. When I installed the MAXJAX, I was able to torque the bolt to 90 ft-lbs and the anchor was still below the concrete. Then I was sure the anchors are set correctly and will not pull.

You don't want the top of the anchor to reach the top of the concrete because it will just hit the MAXJAX base plate from underneath and easily get 100-ft-lbs of torque because the top of the anchor is hitting the metal base plate and will give you a false torque reading.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1331892173.jpg

I've got one and love it! It seems surprisingly stable and goes up and down as fast as my 220V 4 post lift. My space needs to be cleared from time to time so I love that I can break it own and store it in the back corner of my garage. I also had my concrete poured so I know exactly how thick it is (8"+!!!) and I know the concrete company that delivered the concrete so there was no doubt about the quality/quantity.

bazar, thanks

maxjax - Installed one 2 yrs ago
 

Installed one 3 yrs ago - love it

- cost me $1900 delivered, no tax - from Northern Tool, via Danmar - had to buy a hammer drill from Harbor to do the install ($70) - was done in half-day

a scissor lift would not let me easily R&R a Porsche engine - (the primary reason i bought maxjax)

for safety - get a set of tall stands from Harbor Frt & cut off about 5" from the legs - see pic

- my concrete slab is 5" "5-sack"

- i usually run it off a 15-amp circuit with no problems, simply cuz that's the closest outlet (tho i installed a 20-amp for it too)

easily movable - unscrew 5 bolts and roll the offending post away - no need to ever move the other one

only caution is to pre-fit your cars to be sure the arms will rotate into position betwixt the wheels - the suggested width twixt posts in the manual is not correct for short-base cars

i have it set so it can lift anything from a Honda sedan or chevy pickup to a 914/miata/mgb


right now, my MGB is sitting on it for an engine/trans R&R, - not having to belly under the car on a creeper to do the trans, exh, shaft etc is a godsend

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So what did you set your post spacing at? You say that the manual is wrong, but you give no advice on how much. 2 inches or 2 feet, please share.

Thanks,

Chuck

- my advice is this - it depends on what size cars you want to lift

I suggest this -

install one post where you want it - (in my case just close enuf to the wall to still allow std tool carts to roll past)

and then place the second post 105-110 inches (measured between the inside edges of the 2 base plates) from that first post

this is where the manual was wrong - it suggested the measurements from the outside edges of the wheels on the plates - 'way too close together

then drive your various cars into position, centering the posts on the front doors, and test that the arms will pivot under the car

if the posts are too close, the arms will strike the tire & clearly that won't work

I found that 100 inches was barely enuf to clear the little cars (miata, 914, 911, mg)

I found that 105" was adequate to also handle the 04 Accord, 07 civic, 80's chevy, etc

you can place em wider and just extend the arms, but i felt that closer together was "safer"


if you "miss" you can buy more wedjit anchors in various sizes & lengths for different concrete thickness at any Grainger Industrial

if you have marginal concrete - one bit of advice from another site was to weld larger steel plates to the maxjax base and spread out the weight & anchor points

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