Cracked air box

[enzo1]

Yep, she's cracked,,,,been reading posts about replacement, 1976,,,, a guy said to get one from a later car cause they're better then I found this..... "The 6 airbox output connections and air runners on the 78-79 engines are larger than both the earlier and later cars. In '80 an internal metal manifold was added to the air box. This manifold routed the fuel mist from the cold start valve to the inputs of each air runner to better distribute this mist to each individual cylinder. Prior to this, the cold start valve sprayed fuel into the open intake manifold part of the airbox. The later airbox will retrofit to the '74 - '77, but not the 78-79 without a different rubber connecting sleeve." so should I get a 1980 or later? also a guy said he did it without partial drop on the side of the road, I don't see it,,,can it be done?

[Flat6pac]

The CIS airbox, regardless of the year needs a pop off valve. With the metal inside the box still can blow without a pop off valve. 78/79 will not fit neither will 73 1/2 CIS.
Here is an option, you have to copy and paste to get here.
Click here: CIS airbox, $240 - Pelican Parts Technical BBS

[john walker's workshop]

can be done. easier on a 79 and earlier due to the absence of all the frequency valve bs. i'd rather pull the engine on the later ones. account for every nut and washer, check the ports for before reinstall and turn the engine by hand a couple of revolutions to be sure nothing fell into a cylinder.

[enzo1]

Thanks guys!

[Targalid]

Why can't you just seal up the crack with glue or JB Weld or something like that?

[enzo1]

I think its busted all the way around.... where I can't get to it, underneath

[47silver]

hi
i replaced mine without dropping the engine, go slow and it is doable, plug all ports with rags etc.
Replace the oil thermostat seal and breather gasket.
leave time to fix the wiring and connections behind the box. need 12 mm box, straight, short wrenches, for the 12 mm nuts on the passenger side#6?

Get new gaskets for your intake manifolds.
You may want to get a couple new clamps for the rubber connectors, lube them up with some type of lubricant to keep the pliable.

Easier to do with the engine out but i did not want to do that.
I dont think you can glue it with anything that is over the counter. I read many posts here and there was a mention of an adhesive that would work but I dont recall what it is..

[enzo1]

Originally Posted by 47silver

hi
i replaced mine without dropping the engine, go slow and it is doable, plug all ports with rags etc.
Replace the oil thermostat seal and breather gasket.
leave time to fix the wiring and connections behind the box. need 12 mm box, straight, short wrenches, for the 12 mm nuts on the passenger side#6?

Get new gaskets for your intake manifolds.
You may want to get a couple new clamps for the rubber connectors, lube them up with some type of lubricant to keep the pliable.

Easier to do with the engine out but i did not want to do that.
I dont think you can glue it with anything that is over the counter. I read many posts here and there was a mention of an adhesive that would work but I dont recall what it is..

thanks for the info, much appreciated!

[enzo1]

need more help... replaced air box w/pop off valve, turned on key and raised air sensor arm, no injector noise. i"ve got fuel to accumulator don"t know after that. Could I have something hooked up wrong? Have all day sunday to work on it

[enzo1]

pic...

[47silver]

Is the fuel pump on? Some CIS have a switch on fd that activates the pump. Jumper the pump relay to make sure pump works direct. If it does then test for power to the fd switch

[Bob Kontak]

Here is the connection 47silver is talking about. Upper left of picture. It is not directly on the fuel distributor. It is on the back of the air sensor housing (which is part of the distributor assembly)

You may not have hooked it back up when you put the distributor assy back on.

[stlrj]

Originally Posted by Flat6pac

The CIS airbox, regardless of the year needs a pop off valve. With the metal inside the box still can blow without a pop off valve.

Just curious, has anyone heard of the new airbox with the internal plumbing blowing up? Reason I ask, I had one installed on a 78 3.0 without a pop off valve and never had a problem. I know the real reason the factory came up with the internal tubing was to eliminate the airbox explosions that the shielded cables never eliminated.

It appears to me, from a close examination of all the internal tubing, to be virtually impossible to support an airbox explosion.


Cheers,

Joe

[enzo1]

"You may not have hooked it back up when you put the distributor assy back on."



It's hooked up. the FP is working cause I have fuel to the accumulator? Doesn't that connection keep the FP from turning on when key is on? Can't figure out what's wrong, any help appreciated....

[enzo1]

here's the pic of it....

[enzo1]

checked all connections.... pulled fuel injector line raised sensor bar and fuel shot out but no injector noise. Hmm, checked for spark... nothing. Checked coil resistor .7 ohms, what now? Could the coil still be bad? Could the HUGE backfire have been caused by the coil intermittently firing and fuel loading up....

[Bob Kontak]

When you pulled the fuel injector line did you just pull the injector out of the intake runner and see fuel spraying out of the end of the injector? That is a good sign. It does not shoot out of the injector - it would shoot out of the line if you removed the injector - but the injector spray is a fine mist.

As to the noise - you are referring to the screaching noise from hell that you are not hearing? I wonder if the system has to be bled of all air before it makes the noise? I do not know the answer to that. If you removed the injector from the line to test the fuel flow then there may have not been enough pressure to create the noise. Just guessing - nothing more.

Did you mention the coil was bad before? You said "could the coil still be bad".

Bring us up to the current state as to fuel first. Are you getting fuel spray through an injector when you lift the sensor? If so you have fuel. Then on to spark.

[enzo1]

Update: I now have fire ( replaced points and coil). Starts and then immediately dies. On fourth try it wouldn't attempt to start. Waited an hour, tried again and it started then died. Ordering gauges. In the mean time is there anything that comes to mind that I should check? Any suggestions are greatly appreciated! Most of stuff I've read are for sc's....

[Targalid]

It sounds like he is starting on the cold start valve but without the CIS fuel injectors working. After the third squirt the CSV is shutting down.

[enzo1]

Yeah, it starts and then abruptly shuts down, no hesitation or coughing.