Thanks for the advise! I spent a good amount of time making sure that the mounting hole was properly cleaned out. Once I get my parts back from powder coating I'm going to mount everything in place before I bond them into place.

Agreed and good advice!

I just installed the front set of RSR bushings on my car. One side went on fine after using the spherical washers but the other side... I can't get to move freely.

In my case, the driver's side moves freely but the passenger side does not. It takes a pound or two (less than 5 for sure) to get it to move. I realize that with the forces on the suspension this may be negligible, but while I'm here, I am trying to get it just right. This is for racing, no street use.

When I hold the passenger side up to the chassis by hand, it moves freely. When I thread the bolts in by hand, it moves freely. When I add a little torque, it gets just a touch tight. When I go "tight" it binds up so that it takes a few pounds to move the arm. This is with no washers, thin washers, spherical washers on one side or the other or spherical washers on both sides. Can't quite figure out why it won't line up just right.

I have an email in to Clint, but am waiting for a response. Any ideas would be appreciated.

L8apex - Did you check the orientation of the spherical washers, also did you try some additional washers for grins?
Yasin

Is this issue on an 930? I had the same problems on both sides. The reason is that when you torque the crossmember, the rear bush will be lifted a little (due the gap there was between block and crossmember) and this change the angle a few minutes or seconds. On a 930 the problem is for sure, because there is much more anti dive (crossmember higher in tub), but could be an issue on a 911 as well. Here is my solution:


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1390466806.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1390466815.jpg

I shaved-off 1mm on top and bottom plus machined the block to get same measurement including spherical shims like space between crossmember (plus 1/10mm gap). This minimize the change of angle while torque the member. Also I machine the crossmember, as there are sometimes not very even surfaces and different measurements LH to RH too.

Hi

Some of you have used Clint's bushings both front and rear for a few years now. Have you noticed any deterioration? Has anyone disassembled their suspension to see what the teflon looks like after extended use?

Cheers!

Johan

I haven't noticed any change or deterioration at all, I am the creator of this thread so have a few years of driving now with this set-up and it has been solid as the first day I installed these bushings.

Ditto for me - 4 years without a single noise, squeak, clunk, etc. Granted, we're only talking about ~8K miles since installation, but they are just as smooth as on day one.

I replaced a slightly tweaked A arm from racing. The bushings looked great. Much better than my old Polybronze.

I have been having the set on my car for about a year now and love them. The responsiveness and direct steering, great. the only thing is that when riding an uneven surface or when going over speed bumps i get some squeaks from the front. Anybody has the same experience or have a clue what can be the issue?

I have that just in the morning or initial drive then goes away. I just try to drive slowly over bumps in the morning until I get her warmed up.

No squeaks from me. I thought I did but it turned out it was a little tiny metal clip for a trim piece or something under the dash. For such a tiny thing it was really loud and nearly drove me insane for years!

Come to think of it. It is my Netrix OEM style rubber rear bushings that squeak in the morning. Please disregard my previous post. Sorry Clint my bad.

hi guys

just received rebel parts for a arm and rear

without any installation guide


regarding the a arm and rebel bushing

the inside cylinder should be mounted free to turn ? or I should glue it ??

thanks for your help

try to call clint without success

On the Rebel Racing web page they have the instructions. See the links below.

Suspension1

http://rebelracingproducts.com/files/RSRFrontBushingSet.pdf

Rebel Racing RSR Bushing (Front) A-Arm Install Question
 

The metal sleeve is bonded to the a arm. Clint is definitely hard to get on the phone. I did the install about 2 yrs ago so PM if you get stuck and I'll see if I can help.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I love my setup (front pushing, rear 935 spring plates from Clint). I have found him to be relatively easy to get on the phone, though you do miss him at times. When you get hit, he is a WEALTH of info and assistance. He is like the suspension version of Steve Wong (if you have dealt with him for a chip). Clint has even told me not to NOT to buy something from him I wanted to because it would not be noticeable given my setup. How many people do that?

I'm thinking of doing the Rebel Racing rear bushings.

I love the product but I can't deal with the lack of customer support. Clint never returns phone calls or replies to emails.

I still don't believe you should need this many washers to space out the bushings.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1467657286.jpg

The car has never been hit - as far as we can tell. Clint doesn't reply.

Your thoughts?

Richard Newton
LED Garage Lighting

Seems like there is a lot of anti-dive angle shown there in addition to the large stack of spacers, but maybe it's just the picture. I assume you've tried inverting the housing?

That is excessive- like Flieger said, there is an "up" and "down" to each housing- Also you need those washers that are spherical to help with mis alignment (what is pictured looks like normal washers). Do not use regular washers.