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Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: bergen county,NJ,USA
Posts: 55
stud removal problem

hi everyone,
I have a friend that is removing dilavar head studs for me on 3.0. The broken one came out ok and the second one as well. now have trouble removing a couple. He is heating the stud and it is starting to twist, the loctite is not breaking free. Do we have to crack the case and drill out or is there something else we can try.

thanks

lou

Old 03-04-2002, 02:04 PM
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john walker's workshop's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Marysville Wa.
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grab him quick before he compounds your problem! the case must be heated, NOT THE STUD! use an oxy/acetylene torch in the area IN THE CYLINDER BORE OF THE CASE, along the line that the stud threads would be. any other type of torch probably won't work.
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Last edited by john walker's workshop; 03-04-2002 at 03:24 PM..
Old 03-04-2002, 02:23 PM
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thanks john

we will try this when we can borrow a oxy acetelene torch, I only have an acetelene tank

lou
Old 03-04-2002, 02:47 PM
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Location: Denver, NC
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Definetly do what John Walker has reccomended....
you have to use the oxy/Acetlyne and heat the case inside the cylinder spigot.... Do Not heat the stud..... There was a recent post in the last 6 weeks with pictures of where to heat the case.... just do a search
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Old 03-04-2002, 03:03 PM
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I tried propane for a very long time and barely got the area warm. You will need oly/acetylene. I also agree that you shoudl seach recent posts. John WAlker posted an awesome pic of exactly where to apply heat. Just as he said, after about 30 seconds of hot heat, you can feel the stud start to come loose. Keep heat on it as you turn it out, until you're sure it's gonna finish coming.
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Old 03-04-2002, 03:31 PM
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joe

any idea of the title of the thread with the picture on where to heat the case

cant find it and would like to print out the picture

thanks
lou
Old 03-04-2002, 03:34 PM
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I found the post guys

thanks
lou

Old 03-04-2002, 03:57 PM
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