1979 Porsche 911 SC Targa trys to start and then stalls

[rgaretano]

I am refurbishing a 1979 Porsche 911 SC Targa. The car has not been started in 6 years. The plugs are getting a good spark when turning over the engine. I have cleaned the fuel tank, changed the fuel tank filter, replace the fuel pump, Fuel pressure accumulator and fuel filter. I also removed the CIS fuel distributor and had it rebuilt. I reinstalled the rebuilt CIS fuel distributor and the engine will now try to start and then stalls. I checked the fuel and it is getting to the injectors.

Any suggestions on what to check next. Your help will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

[boyt911sc]

Measure your control and system fuel pressures. Check for vacuum leak. Check your cold start system (CSV & TTS). Make sure that you're getting good ignition. Check your WUR, AAR,etc........there are more tests. These will keep you busy for a while and keep us posted.

Tony

[Paulporsche]

rgaretano,

It is customary for a new poster to include a pic of his car, not himself! The only exception of course would be a killer girlfriend or wife.

Anyway, just kidding. Looks like you are happy w/ your new Targa. Keep smiling and do what Tony recommended.

[rgaretano]

Originally Posted by rgaretano

I am refurbishing a 1979 Porsche 911 SC Targa. The car has not been started in 6 years. The plugs are getting a good spark when turning over the engine. I have cleaned the fuel tank, changed the fuel tank filter, replace the fuel pump, Fuel pressure accumulator and fuel filter. I also removed the CIS fuel distributor and had it rebuilt. I reinstalled the rebuilt CIS fuel distributor and the engine will now try to start and then stalls. I checked the fuel and it is getting to the injectors.

Any suggestions on what to check next. Your help will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Thank for the advise, as i am new at this. I removed my pic and will add one of the car. Thank anagin.

[Paulporsche]

LOL! Leave the pic of yourself. Just add one of the car. It's nice to sometime see what other posters look like. Check out the Jack Olsen pose thread.

BTW you seem to have 2 threads going on this same problem. You should, or have the moderator, combine them.

Lots of luck and let us know how things progress.

[rgaretano]

Paul,

Thought the first one did not go throgh, how do get the moderator, combine them. I am green at this thing and am tring to figure it out.

Thanks

[Paulporsche]

Look for the list of moderators in the lower right corner of the Forum page and click on one or some to send a personal message. They will do it for you.

[ikarcuaso]

Self-taken pic with straight-faced, tough guy mug is acceptable.

[snbush67]

Replace the fuel relay.

[Bill Douglas]

Try using a spray can of Easy Start, or whatever they call it where you come from. It's sort of ether in a can. Very combustable - good for lawn mowers too. That way you will (hopefully) get it to run so it can suck some good gas through the fuel system. Or give you a few more clues. If that doesn't work a try tow start. It sounds like it wants to go.

[SC-targa]

Originally Posted by rgaretano

I I reinstalled the rebuilt CIS fuel distributor and the engine will now try to start and then stalls.

Does the engine actually start when you have the key in the start position and quit when you let the key return to the run position?

If so, check the switch on the CIS sensor plate. If it shorts out, you will have htis problem.

Regards,

Jerry Kroeger

[kodioneill]

Originally Posted by Bill Douglas

Try using a spray can of Easy Start, or whatever they call it where you come from. It's sort of ether in a can. Very combustable - good for lawn mowers too. That way you will (hopefully) get it to run so it can suck some good gas through the fuel system. Or give you a few more clues. If that doesn't work a try tow start. It sounds like it wants to go.

not to be negative, but i wouldn't do either of those things. starting fluid is not a good thing to spray into a combustion chamber. too hot (volatile). tow starting is rough on drive train.

[rgaretano]

Jerry,

The engine does actually start when you have the key in the start position and will quit when I let the key return to the run position. I am not sure where the check pionts are to place my ohm meter to teat the switch on the CIS sensor plate for a short. What do htis stand for?

I also check for 12 volts on the hot side of my coil with the ignition key in the on position and do not get any voltage. When I try to start the engine I get the 12 Volts to the coil and when I release the key from the start position the coil lose the 12 volts.

Can it be a bad ignition switch, bad ignition switch harness or could the htis problem you stated in your reply be cause the coil to lose the 12 volts.

Thank for your help.

Regards,
Rich Garetano

[rgaretano]

We checked the coil for 12 volts with the ignition switch in the run position and did not get voltage. The Coil only receives the 12 volts when trying to start the car and loses the volatagee when the the ignition key is release back to the run postion. Using My service manual we traced the wiring back to the capacitor Discharge ignition (CDI) control module. We found that we had 12 volts to the CDI when the ignition key was in the run position , but did not have any power going to the (A) terminal comming out of the CDI module to the (A) terminal of the coil. We only see the 12 vols on the (a) terninal of the coil and the CDI whe we turn the ignotion key to the start position and when released the 12 Voltages are lost. It looks like the CDI unit may be bad. I will try to replace the CDI and advise if this resolved the problem.

Thaks for all of your help and sugestions.

Rich Garetano

[boyt911sc]

Originally Posted by rgaretano

We checked the coil for 12 volts with the ignition switch in the run position and did not get voltage. The Coil only receives the 12 volts when trying to start the car and loses the volatagee when the the ignition key is release back to the run postion. Using My service manual we traced the wiring back to the capacitor Discharge ignition (CDI) control module. We found that we had 12 volts to the CDI when the ignition key was in the run position , but did not have any power going to the (A) terminal comming out of the CDI module to the (A) terminal of the coil. We only see the 12 vols on the (a) terninal of the coil and the CDI whe we turn the ignotion key to the start position and when released the 12 Voltages are lost. It looks like the CDI unit may be bad. I will try to replace the CDI and advise if this resolved the problem.

Thaks for all of your help and sugestions.

Rich Garetano

Rich,

Don't replace CIS components unless verified defective. This will be a very expensive way to troubleshoot your problem. A good used CDI will cost you around $250 these days and buying a used one is a gamble too. I would suggest that you try to use a good CDI or borrow one for your test. I could probably help you test your CDI. PM sent for details. Good luck.

Tony

[rgaretano]

Tony,

The CSI unit has already been rebuilt and tested. I also replaced the CDI and still have the same problem. I do not get any volage to the A terminal of the coil when the ignition key is set to the run position. I only get the 12 volts to the A terminal when I turn the key to the start position and when releasted the 12 volts are gone. I though replacing the CDI would do it. Should I see 12 vots from the CDI when the ignition key is in the run position at the (A) terminal on the coil?

Thanks,
Rich Garetano

[rgaretano]

I found that the plastic Cold start valve mount was cracked to the Air hose connector. Replaced cold start valve and mount. Car starts now but blows white smock, rings are gone. Pulled motor and had it rebuilt.

Thank you for all of you comments and help.