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ok, thanks Draco for that info and great picture. Yes that what my (now white) connector looks like. I guess what you are calling the" mesh" you disgarded and just soldered the inner core to a mlae spade and the sensors working?
I will pull it a take a pic |
Draco,
Have you been in my car? I swear that's exactly what mine did. :) |
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How is your fix doing? SmileWavy |
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The mesh was cut back and insulated with heat shrink ( here I go again ) as not to receive an errand ground for my DME. |
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Sir you are a gentleman, genius and occasional picture pirate (i hope tirwin forgives you, especially since now he too can repair his o2 sensor wire)SmileWavy |
You are too kind Sir!
When I was a Noob and still feel like it some times. I built a shroud with parts from Home Depot and Electronics store. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...COA5OG/o2s.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...OA5OG/o2s2.jpg It worked but, I did not solder it properly and it broke off. so I went with the Bullet Spade with Water Proof insulation. If you want OEM look this is how you can do it. You know while I was taking the earlier pics, I placed a 1.5" piece of 3/8 hose around the male connector so the holder held it firmly, realized I did not like it being loose. OK I have OCD :( |
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http://www.idylwilde.net/Porsche/01.jpg
http://www.idylwilde.net/Porsche/02.jpg maybe this gives a better idea of what im dealing with. Im not so sure i can tackle it, those wires are very thin. I tried separating out the inner signal wire from the outter mesh and plugged that into the o2 sensor but did not hear any change in idle, so dont know if that worked. |
Isnt the 3.0 o2 a narrowband single wire and the 3.2 o2 a heated wideband? I was under the assumtion that the o2 for the 3.0 is not the same as the one on the 3.2. So the fix may not be the same. I dont know.. just asking the question...
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Anyway, that is exactly what mine did. I was just trying to jiggle it to tell where the two ends of the connector met and then oh snap, it snapped! Obviously it's a lot more common than I thought. My car seems to have been running w/o it for years so I'm not in any hurry to fix it. |
^^^ LOL ^^^
OK, I see the metal mesh shield, green wire cover then the copper strand wire underneath. Am I missing anything? If not, you are good with the Bullet Spade Set. The green thing in the connector is piece of the green wire cover that snapped off. Simply slip some heat shrink on then solder that copper strand on to the Male Bullet (prefereably water proof type a FLAPS will have it, i.e. Pepboys is where I got mine) Heat Shrink that Mesh and end of the Bullet where you soldered it. O2S, solder the Female end and then heat shrink it for extra measure. Prior to soldering, make sure the Bullet set is nice and snug, if loose squeeze the female side. Better safe then sorry with a loose connection. That's it brother. Brad, Yes the 3.2 is pre-heated narrow band system but the two heat wires are seperate from the sensor wire. 3.0 has to wait for it to heat up before operating as designed. 3.2 is about a minute later ergo our 45 second high idle warm up on the 3.2. |
Status Update
UPDATE:
Draco, I belive its working now. I spliced a male bullet connector onto the affected wire, using only the inner core and pulling the outter shildeing away and wrapping that up. The male bullet fits snugly into the female connector on the O2 sensor. Now when I unplug the sensor with the car idleing i hear a distinct change in rpms indicating that im getting a signal. Will have to do further tests to see if its working correctly, but its definitely doing something now!:SmileWavy |
Hoorah! Outstanding! Now go drive her and have fun :D
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