What would you do?

[SeaDweller]

Hi everyone!

Well, I'm at a point where I need to make a critical decision. I'm very close to having my car stripped and painted at a cost of $5K, which includes replacing a front pan that was damaged by a battery boil-over at some point in the cars life. The car also has a couple of other typical, minor rust spots that need tending to.

Around 4 years ago, the PO put a very expensive Glasurit paint job on the car that is beautiful. There are a few minor imperfections, but from 5 feet away the car is stunning. I'm having a hard time deciding whether or not to pursue a strip and repaint based on the number of times I've been told "you've got alot to work with there".

The same gentleman who quoted me $5K for the work said that for around $2K, he could do the pan, replace the glass and seals (which I've already bought), tend to the few other items that are there, and make the car a very, very nice daily driver. It wouldn't be concourse, but it would certainly be a car to be proud of.

My problem is that I keep thinking "it's only another $3K more for the whole shabang," but only $3K is a relative term when you don't have it! I'd like to get the rust repaired sooner than later, so it doesn't progress any further, so the question is, which route do I take? Will I be happy I saved the $3K, or disappointed down the road?

Personal experiences are most welcomed!!!

[RoninLB]

SEA..."typical minor rust spots" = IMO, NOT "very expensive Glasurit paint job". Ask him if he'll shoot DX-40 primer after it's stripped. That question may give you an idea of his paint jobs, IMO......Ron

[SeaDweller]

Thanks for the point of detail....

The gentleman that will be doing the work is not the same shop that did the original paint work. I have the receipt for the Glasurit work, and it was in the neighborhood of $6K.

The guy who will be doing the work this time came by recommendation, and only works on your car if you're referred by a handful of people he associates with in the Porsche business. I've seen his work, and it's on par with what you'd expect from the factory, and then some........

He's a one man shop however, so it takes 90-120 days of patience for a strip and repaint......

[Bill Douglas]

Hi Michael.

I would just get the rusty bits done and leave the paint alone. One thing you should do, and I'm about to do, is put some rust protectant inside the doors and around the back of the door stricker panels (inside the rear wheel arches) and under the fenders where the windscreen comes down to.

Us guys being by the sea, although we drive the mighty SC, we do have to take extra anti rust precautions.

My favorite stuff is Fisholine oil, which is a slightly smelly (a bit smelly for two weeks) fish oil type thing that works beter than any modern Waxoline typet products I've used.

It may be called something different in the US but a house paint type shop may know what it is.

Bill '79SC SCWDP south pacific region.

[RoninLB]

Bill....I live on a sand bar, literally. A little rust now and a little bit latter. I think the question is "do you want short term, or do you want long term??" I keep a window fan on 24/7 to keep a circulation going. My house is 7 ft above mean high tide, go figure.
I don't want/need no stinken rust..Protecting inner panels/fenders is a great idea. My Camaro inner fenders, etc. were coated w/ epoxy resin then undercoated for road noise and installed w/stainless bolts along with hood hinges/every thing.

[Bill Douglas]

Hi Ron.

You may have some tips for me I also live on a sand bar. Not a drop of soil on my section (other than the indoor house plants, but even then the sand is starting to take over), and I am actually a (easy) stones throw from the water. I moved there about 10 months ago and the Toyota, that lives outside, is just about knackered already. The 911 gets the garage but salt air still gets in. I don't have any rust yet but realistically what can I expect and what can I do to prevent it?

Thanks, Bill '79SC SCWDP guy

[RoninLB]

Bill...it seems we are in different boats on the same ocean. I assume I'm in battle w/salt air. It's more complicated than it sounds. I think about this battle as if my 911 is 100mi. off-shore in a following sea. Acid burns and diluted acid, better known as salt air, is every where. Every wire is always soldered, I try to use no lead solder. Paints become abused, I try to always use urethanes or epoxys. Nut & bolts become abused, I try to anti-seize everything. Electrical ground fastners/body contacts become abused, I try to use an electrical paste. Actual wires get internally corroded, I always use marine grade wires. The circut breakers in my 911 are marine grade. I avoid in line fuses, again corrosion. I keep in mind standard relays will take a beating. I relay may appear to work fine but be a battery drain. High moisture air will add moisture to fuel tank, I try to keep at least 1/2 tank and very ocasionally check for water w/a dye tester.. Low/med quality grease doesn't perform for the routine length of time. Bulb sockets always get a preservative even if it's wheel bearing grease. The 14 pin engine comp connector gets attention. The game is a way of life and should be routine. Find the marine supply stores close by and become famaliar with the whole store/stores. Even the oil comming off your engine and tranny has a useful function. Make sure you have garage ground fault protectors. Overnight due on paint should be avoided or rinsed off before it dryes. I do use Stainless Steel when ever I can, even if its only 1/2 of the nut and bolt combo. I learned how to use SS on exhaust system, does require a different approach. I try to use CRC, not WD-40. On and on and on it goes, etc.

[dickster]

if the paintwork is generally beautiful - why bother repainting??

unless its a show car or something save the money - IMO

[Milu]

Everytime I've paid out for a mega paintjob I've regretted it. There are always little details that I've had to clean up and I've always felt it wasn't really worth the money. PLUS I've always been afraid to take the car out and use it afterwards in case it got a ding or a chip. My advice: Spend minimum for aesthetic maintenance and enjoy driving it.

[RJ Gilliam]

Ronin,

Wow, you just talked me out of ever moving to the coast for the Malibu Beach house. OMG

RJ Gilliam

[expat]

Here's some other perspectives

If you don't go the whole way (an extra $3K) will it constantly drive you nuts - annoy you - to the stage where your enjoyment of owning/driving is deminished by the annoyance you see up close. I know for me I love owning a Porsche but the one I have I'm losing my faith that its the one for me. Rather than throw money at it I'm thinking of selling and finding more of what I want. Problem is you lose money either way!!!

Also think about whether you intend keeping the car longer than a few years. If so, I'd get the whole job done. If your short on money and even thinking you may not keep the car longer term, don't waste your money. Chances are after a deciding to sell, a potential buyer won't worry as much as you about the problems you see.

Just some thoughts.

Good luck
Mark

[Sunroof]

When I bought my 1973.5 T the guy who owned it before me wanted everything to be perfect, relative to keeping it all original. He had the original Sepia Brown stripped down to bare metal and repainted, windows out with one hell of a lot of paint.

No clear coat was applied; afterall who had clear coat in 1973? Or did they in Germany? So here I am waxing constantly to preserve this fantastic paint job. My message to you................whatever route you take....DON'T FORGET THE CLEARCOAT.

Regards
Bob 73.5T

[Thomas Owen]

If you want to drive the car then leave the paint as is. I mean, if it looks good from 5 feet that is better than most already. Everyone wants their car to be stunning, it's just that each person will then treat the car differently once it reaches that point. Some will continue to drive it and not mind the chips and dings which WILL HAPPEN, and others, like me, are reluctant to drive it anywhere. I have had 2 911's that had the expensive paint and both times they stayed in the garage. I have now had 2 others that look great from 5 feet and I am enjoying them FAR more.
My suggestion: Get the rust fixed and drive her.
Regards,

[dhamilto]

I have the same dilemna and steering towards just having the rust patched cut out and paint blended in. The only thing that worries me, given my past experiences with body shops, is that you cannot trust anyone to do the job properly when it comes to rust repairs. I would love to do it myself, but probably couldn't. Actually, the other thing that worries me, is that we could be opening up a can of worms. I hesitate to look "properly" to see what needs to be taken care of ......... Argh!!//%%^&

83SC, Pittsburgh

[pbs911]

He's a one man shop however, so it takes 90-120 days of patience for a strip and repaint...... [/QUOTE]

For me that meant 6 months, and then I picked up my car and put it back together myself. If you double the time quoted, I think its more realistic.

Have you decided to keep the car in the event a transfer materializes in the future? If so, get the rust taken car of.

[SeaDweller]

Well, that's the kicker........I relocated to Florida going on 4 years ago, and I stand the chance of having to relocate each year. I've decided that I can't put my life on hold, so I plan on addressing the few items necessary to get the car where I want it to be.

The front pan is not an inexpensive proposition. If all I had to do was a repaint, it would be a no-brainer, but the pan issue adds another $1K to the equation. Based on everyone's input, and some soul searching on my own, I'm gearing towards having the "defects" addressed and being done with it for a while.

Unfortunately, it's a very tough $3K decision to make. But then again, that $3K might help pay for the Ducati 906 Paso I'm going to look at next week!!

These toys are going to be the death of me!