Yeah, maybe that's it, except that in my case the brake pedal isn't being pushed hard enough (had a brake shudder problem last summer, hoping it'll be gone with the addition of Turbo tie rods, front bushings, steering rack spacer, steering shaft bearing & alignment/corner balance).

Thanks for the advice-

Do some of you guys wear EE shoes? Since I have a B width foot, this isn't an option. I don't feel comfortable with 1/4" of shoe on either pedal going 90 mph:(

I'm with StuttgratDave, ball of foot on brake and side of foot on the gas. As far as wide feet I'm a C, 11.5 and wear my old checkerboard Vans at DE, a very narrow shoe. Big old gooby Nikes just hang up on the pedals and the soles are too thick to get good feadback. The old school Vans have a firm, thin sole, perfect.

Left foot braking is a really cool skill to develop. There are times when it is nice to dab the brakes with the left foot to settle the car between quick transition corners. Turn one at Texas Motorsport Ranch comes to mind.

As far as pedal height the stock set up is fine for me. The brakes on my '87 go a little soft by the end of the day and the brake was sometimes just slighly below the gas, very easy to T&H that way. I had some Momo pedal covers on for a bit but the didn't do anything for me. I just put on fresh rubbers once a year :)

Most of the ball of your foot is on the brake, you merely use the right edge of your foot to blip the gas in neutral as you double clutch and downshift. If the pedals are positioned properly, this is an easy move.

For some reason many of you seem to have the idea that the width of your foot is spread nearly evenly over brake and gas pedals. You would need a size EEEEE foot to do that and it would not achieve the correct effect.

You just have to blip the gas for only an instant with the right side of your foot when downshifting, while at the same time using the right foot to maintain and modulate pressure on the brake. I don't have a big foot - 9 1/2 D - and I can do it. But for people with very narrow feet I suppose you can pivot your heel over onto the gas for the short blip. The real trick is not the heel and toe maneuver, it is the double clutch downshift. You have to get it all coordinated at a time when you are going fast and about to turn into the corner. It has to be automatic because you are looking for your turn-in point and then the apex, so your mind is relatively busy on other stuff.

A couple of folks mentioned adjusting the pedals ... Can someone offer details?
Thanks

I am by no means a race car driver...so correct me if I am wrong...

double clutching is only ESSENTIAL in cars with straight cut gears...without synchros...but many people use them on regular transmssions with success

in a regular downshift the sequence is this:
1. brake
2. clutch
3. blip throttle/shift down a gear
4. clutch out

all the while modulating the brake and blipping high enough to match RPMS to your car's speed and gear

in a double clutch the sequence is
1. brake
2. clutch
3. shift to neutral
4. clutch out
5. blip the throttle
6. clutch
7. shift down a gear
8. clutch out

the reason why there are the extra steps in the double clutch is that without synchros the engine speed and transmission speed have to be better matched for the downshift.
when you clutch out in neutral the engine and the transmission are mated so your blip not only raises the engine RPM, but also spins the transmission so that when you down shift the gear there is a good mesh between the previous gear that was spinning, and the lower gear that needs to speed up to match the previous gear without grinding...

in a regular downshift, the middle clutch out is not necessary because with synchros, they match the speed of the spinning gear and the lower gear for you...the gear downshift will be fine, and raising the engine speed is the only concern...
Obviiously in the regular down shift you will probably put wear on your synchros since they are doing the job of matching the gears together where as the double clutch was getting the gears to mesh well...but that is what the synchros are for...

I must admit I have not mastered the double clutching, and when on occasion I hit a 2xclutch right it is smoother and I feel less synchro engagement...but as you can see there are many steps and it can be difficult to master as well as execute in a the middle of a corner at the limit...

by the way all the info I presented is from what I have heard form more experienced guys and the skip barber racing technique book

now if I could just master the clutchless shift...hahaha...it is scary...a leap of faith to shift gears without your trusty clutch

BTW I am of the HEEL TOE philosophy...I feel much more secure instead of half a foot on the gas, half a foot on the brake...I have had myfoot slip between the pedels while reaching for the gas...esp when you need to get a really good stab at the gas to get a high blip...(I am a 9.5 pretty wide foot too)

The only time the side-side technique feels okay is when they are race pedals and adjusted like mention above...almost full brake should be be flush with accel and the dedels are very close together...(great diagrams in skip barber) the pedels are maybe 1" apart...so there is no chance for slipping

the twisting of the foot is hard to get used to but now it is second nature...my friends notice my foor twist and think it is funny, but I think that is the most secure way to do it in our bottom hinged wide spaced pedal cars...

And to adjust the brake pedal if you look behind it there is a large metal rectangle with bolts protruding from either side...if you twist the rectangle one way it increases the dist and vice versa...also I noticed mine has locklight in it which I think is a good idea...you don't want the brake pedal to be able to get tight enough that you are alwys riding the brake and don't have enough pedal travel to fully engage the brakes in an emergency and vuce versa...

Whew that is a mouth full...I guess it is my way of prcrastinating for my midterms tomorrow...

MJ