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'70 911E
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 69
Hood latch releases over bumps

my 70E hood latch releases frequently over bumps, lubricated the latch mechanism and checked the cable, handle works smoothly and returns completely, does the pin wear out? Any ideas? thanks, Rick.

Old 06-23-2011, 12:03 PM
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It may not be seating all the way. Check the height of the round bumpers, if too high, it may not allow the hook latch to seat all the way.

Can you post a pic with the lid closed compared to the side fenders?
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Old 06-23-2011, 12:10 PM
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'70 911E
 
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thanks for your reply Draco, the hood and fenders fit up really flush, is there a length adjustment on the "pin" maybe I could lengthen it a bit.
Old 06-23-2011, 12:31 PM
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Not sure about your year, i believe the base can be adjusted or the top hook latch can be moved over.

CAUTION, be careful not to lock yourself out. If too tight you may not be able to open it.
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Old 06-23-2011, 12:38 PM
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a couple of things....

if your suspension pan or chassis has 'some' rust, chassis flex can cause this....

also, (this did it for me) the latch has a safety mechanism built in, such that if the cable breaks, it will release the hood.....so, the reverse engineering solution means that if your cable is adjusted a smidge too tight or too loose, it can cause not enough grip to the pin.....best bet is to pull the latch and move the receptacle in and out on the cable to see when maximum grabbing occurs.....then adjust the cable accordingly.

Lewis
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Old 06-23-2011, 02:56 PM
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This thread on the 912bbs sums up how to adjust it properly I believe:

912 Board - Viewing Topic: Re: Front Trunk Keeps popping open. Is it the latch or the release?
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Old 06-23-2011, 03:15 PM
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This is almost just like adjusting the shift coupler. I went through the same thing, the top piece moves side to side, back and forth, and the screw in spring has to be just right. Also, if the cable is not setup just right, it will not bite enough. Takes time but you will get it.
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Last edited by tobluforu; 07-18-2011 at 03:06 AM..
Old 06-23-2011, 03:26 PM
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I just fixed this on my 68. On the post attached to the hood loosen the large nut at the top, then using a screwdriver turn the post to lengthen it. Close hood and go for a ride on the bumpy road that pops your hood. If it pops you may need to lengthen it some more. It should remain tightly closed though, if the hood is loose then the problem may not lie in the post length. Then check the height of the rubber bumpers or the latch mechanism itself.

Good Luck
Old 06-23-2011, 05:27 PM
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I had this same problem on my 71 911T. I changed out the latch , and then the pin assembly. Adjusted again and again. Was sure I had it right , and it would still pop open on the first good bump. Finally decided to replace the cable , since I had a new one handy, and then I could say I had replaced everything. When I pulled the old one out I found a slight kink in the cable about 2" below the T handle. Replaced it and I was fine. Think some one was feeding it in and met resistance when the cable end contacted the latch, then they tied to shove it in with pliers. Pretty frustrating, when you finish building a car , and then you can't keep the hood closed long enough to drive it. I feel your pain. Dave
Old 06-23-2011, 06:04 PM
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'70 911E
 
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thanks for all this help and advice, could have potentially made a mistake, will be working on it this weekend, I'll let you know how it goes.....
Old 06-24-2011, 06:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeteM1965 View Post
I just fixed this on my 68. On the post attached to the hood loosen the large nut at the top, then using a screwdriver turn the post to lengthen it. Close hood and go for a ride on the bumpy road that pops your hood. If it pops you may need to lengthen it some more. It should remain tightly closed though, if the hood is loose then the problem may not lie in the post length. Then check the height of the rubber bumpers or the latch mechanism itself.

Good Luck
+1 That is exactly how I adjusted mine with similar problem. Adjust a little bit at a time until desired results are achieved.
Old 06-24-2011, 06:11 AM
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On my '70T, I did all the above and still ended up replacing the latch.. No more problems...
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Old 06-24-2011, 08:02 AM
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does this washer belong?

hmm.... I am having the same problem. The latch is centered.

Please see this image - i assume the washer doesn't belong? Thing is though when the washer is removed, the spring goes all the way down to the head - eliminating the small lip needed for the rod to engage. Any thoughts? Do i have the wrong spring? I have tried inverting it.




Hope this makes sense....
Old 07-17-2011, 10:16 PM
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Brb, will post a 3.2 latch, it should be the same.
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Old 07-17-2011, 10:19 PM
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'85 Carrera Targa
Factory Marble Grey/Black * Turbo Tail * 930 Steering Wheel* Sport Seats * 17" Fuchs (r) * 3.4 * 964 Cams * 915 * LSD * Factory SS * Turbo Tie Rods * Bilsteins * Euro Pre-Muff * SW Chip on 4K DME * NGK * Sienes GSK * Targa Body Brace
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Old 07-17-2011, 10:23 PM
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mine is different

Hey Draco

always prompt with your replies... do you have a telepathic connection to this forum or something???

Thanks for the pic. I beleive my spring has a larger circumference. Although, thinking about it, it shouldnt make any difference.

Its damn frustrating though. Having to drive, stop, adjust, drive again....
Old 07-17-2011, 10:37 PM
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LOL, Actually it is connected by IV

If I may suggest get rid of that washer and bushing/rubber (?) it should not be there.

Jim

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Old 07-18-2011, 03:50 PM
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