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FTE Caliper Rebuild Kit, WTF?
OK Fellas!
Just rebuilt the front and rear calipers of my 3.2. Kits from our host: ATE fronts and FTE rears. Amazingly, the fronts were a snap :D, just follow enclosed instructions. On the other hand, the FTE's are a nightmare :eek: at the end. The FTE Pelican Parts - Product Information: 911-352-905-00-M33 comes with a inner crown of metal thorns that suppose to grab on the the caliper rim where the piston goes in. How, I don't see it, there is no groove or flange to catch on to. :eek: OK, When you put in one side snug then try to gradually smooth and press the other side the first side pops out. Was sitting there for 2 hours wearing my fingers to the bone and cursing all high heaven at pos FTE design. SO WHAT's the TRICK? :confused: Jim BTW, everyone with squeeky/squeeling brakes. When I removed the passenger side rear caliper, I found the 20 degrees was reversed on one side :eek:. I may have found my squeeling brakes. So you might want to check the piston orientation for squeeling brakes. My 2 cents. |
I make a "press" with a block of wood and clamp and push evenly until seated, yes fronts easy rears not so much
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That is what I was thinking, get some PVC and, piece of 1/2" plank and press with couple of C clamps.
This is a very criticial point missing from the the rebuild kit or the famous write up? Makes absolute no sense why it is not part of the installation instructions for FTE, even ATE had basic steps. I am very disappointed. Jim |
remember to "lube" the seals with brake fluid, I use a special lube and I think plain brake fluid might be better as it may allow the seals to pull the pistons back the small amount easier, I get a bit of squeaking while rolling after a stop, I think the small inconsistencies knock the pistons back a few mils and then I have no or little on-going drag
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Yeap, ATE, steps show just to use brake fluid.
In fact I used the existing brake fluid to clean as well. Just is strong. Have you used just a block of wood? How did you get int the grooves? |
my memory (which is suspect in general) is that the wood pushes on the metal ring under the rubber at the edges of the boot.... I hope we are talking about the same thing. Someone may have a picture handy.
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No we are not, you are thinking of the ate with outer ring.
The FTE has the barbed inner ring which is suppose to catch something. Well it is 2" diameter so will try the PVC trick, just check the FTEs they totally pooped off the piston. POS! |
Update:
Be Warned, the FTE rear Cailper Rebuild Kit need a SST or needs to be modified: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...717_160336.jpg Very annouying. I ended up bending the barbs in about 1/3 in to allow the bars to go over the caliper piston receiver rim/ the rim to retain the boot. It went on an stay but just a little bit of pressure and it will pop off :eek: Using a piece of 1.5" PVC may work wice a C clamp but I was worried the pressue would cause the sharp barbed ring to break thru the fragile rubber boot :eek: Has anyone else had this issue? Has anyone tried the ATE brand for the rear caliper rebuild? This really sucks and it should be noted in the Tech Article! Ok, I am calm now, here is my Caliper rebuilt with Big Red Brake Look using Caliper paint and Heat: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...717_183352.jpg |
I was talking about the rear seals with the "teeth". Can be pressed in with wood and clamp(s)
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Thanks HCole!
I did the mdofication and it seem to hold, if not I will try the wood thing,if it tears I will try the Centric boot. Jim |
...i found that the cap from a gerber baby food jar is the exact diameter needed to knudge that pesky, toothed ring where it needs to go...
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Really :eek: Awesome, will give that a try too :D what flavor :-o ???
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When I just did mine, I used a cap that was the same diameter and pushed with all my might! Still was easy to pop off, but I got it on there the best I could and on the car it went. Well see how they are holding up with the next pad change.
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Wow, I can't believe only two of us had issues with this???
I hope the Gerber SST works? OK, Just talked to Jason at PP :D In his experience, you need an extra pair of hands to hold in on side and then you would press the other side, he agreed a BIG PITA. Also recommend, if you have no friends to get a piece of wood to fit in the one side and C-clamp it then press the other in. Sure easy for him to say :eek:. But at least I got more leads! He never tried the Baby Gerber or full on piece of wood then using a C-clamp to press in. |
...keep in mind its really easy to tear the rubber!!!
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But how much pressure did you use with your SST Baby Gerber technique? I found with brake fluid it keeps it pliable |
Brake squeel can be kept to a minimum by throwing an approx .125" (1/8") chamfer on the leading edge of the brake pads, prior to installation.
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Well, driving around all day today, will check the boot when I bleed the 2nd time to get rid of all trapped air.
As far as squeeling, it is totaly gone once I corrected the piston postion to 20 Degrees, amazing, never been so quite :D |
I bought a steel pipe end cap from Home Depot that was the same diameter as the boot; put the boot in the end cap and pressed it on using a wood hand screw clamp. It popped right on. I don't remember the cap diameter, I took the boot to the store to figure out which size I needed.
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TIA SmileWavy |
The photo below shows the pipe cap and hand screw I used. The size on the pipe cap says 1 1/4" which I believe is the I.D. of the pipe. The size of the opening or the O.D. of the pipe looks to be 1 5/8". I took the dust cap to the store to get the right size. This size works for my car an 86 Carrera. I like the wood hand screw because it won't mar the metal, but I'm sure you could use a c clamp. Hope this helps. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1311210822.jpg
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Perfect!
I am re-installing the caps now, all rears have popped off again. :( Thanks Brother! |
OK, I see now, I'll try the pipe cap method next time, Thanks.
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This method work with me... 2 clamps to keep seal in place, and tap the clip in between the 2 clamps with a piece of wood.... snaps right in.
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u...7/DSC_1190.jpg |
OK trying this method right now:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...720_191354.jpg Will post an update :D, It was yummy :) |
Update:
Gerber Cap is too weak, it gets warped. Made a SST out of Black PVC 1.5" Connector, Cut out spaces for my Wood Vise. It seemed to slip on but as soon as I loosen the vise one side pops out. Tried again, with a bit more pressure. BROKE thru the rubber at the connection of the Barbed Wires. WHAT A POS!!! |
I do most of my own maintenance and upgrades but when it comes to brake calipers I use Eric at PMB Performance. Awesome restoration complete with original plating.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1311224509.jpg |
Here is the tool I made, took a break and tried again, it actually worked but will need to do it two inner one again. Thanks FAG :eek: ( that's what is says on the boot )
It would have been easier and more accurate if it was off the car, :eek:. Live and Learn. 1.50" PVC, used a dremel to cut out the section for the wood clamps: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...720_215724.jpg |
Only a dust boot clip. This is totally crazy. Why don't they make it so that they can be as easy as the front?
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I was thinking there must be more than just me with this issue and I bet most or even shops that installed these boots probably popped off??? In any case, If I need to service just the boots, I am thinking I can place a slight groove with a dremel around the rim to make the CRAPPY FAG Boot to bit into??? I mean that is all that needs to be in place is a lip to catch those silly barbs, right? or is there better boots or pistons for the rears out there??? |
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