FTE Caliper Rebuild Kit, WTF?

[DRACO A5OG]

OK Fellas!

Just rebuilt the front and rear calipers of my 3.2. Kits from our host: ATE fronts and FTE rears.

Amazingly, the fronts were a snap , just follow enclosed instructions.

On the other hand, the FTE's are a nightmare at the end.

The FTE Pelican Parts - Product Information: 911-352-905-00-M33 comes with a inner crown of metal thorns that suppose to grab on the the caliper rim where the piston goes in. How, I don't see it, there is no groove or flange to catch on to.

OK, When you put in one side snug then try to gradually smooth and press the other side the first side pops out. Was sitting there for 2 hours wearing my fingers to the bone and cursing all high heaven at pos FTE design.

SO WHAT's the TRICK?

Jim

BTW, everyone with squeeky/squeeling brakes. When I removed the passenger side rear caliper, I found the 20 degrees was reversed on one side . I may have found my squeeling brakes.

So you might want to check the piston orientation for squeeling brakes. My 2 cents.

[hcoles]

I make a "press" with a block of wood and clamp and push evenly until seated, yes fronts easy rears not so much

[DRACO A5OG]

That is what I was thinking, get some PVC and, piece of 1/2" plank and press with couple of C clamps.

This is a very criticial point missing from the the rebuild kit or the famous write up?

Makes absolute no sense why it is not part of the installation instructions for FTE, even ATE had basic steps.

I am very disappointed.

Jim

[hcoles]

remember to "lube" the seals with brake fluid, I use a special lube and I think plain brake fluid might be better as it may allow the seals to pull the pistons back the small amount easier, I get a bit of squeaking while rolling after a stop, I think the small inconsistencies knock the pistons back a few mils and then I have no or little on-going drag

[DRACO A5OG]

Yeap, ATE, steps show just to use brake fluid.

In fact I used the existing brake fluid to clean as well. Just is strong.
Have you used just a block of wood?

How did you get int the grooves?

[hcoles]

my memory (which is suspect in general) is that the wood pushes on the metal ring under the rubber at the edges of the boot.... I hope we are talking about the same thing. Someone may have a picture handy.

[DRACO A5OG]

No we are not, you are thinking of the ate with outer ring.

The FTE has the barbed inner ring which is suppose to catch something.

Well it is 2" diameter so will try the PVC trick, just check the FTEs they totally pooped off the piston. POS!

[DRACO A5OG]

Update:

Be Warned, the FTE rear Cailper Rebuild Kit need a SST or needs to be modified:



Very annouying.

I ended up bending the barbs in about 1/3 in to allow the bars to go over the caliper piston receiver rim/ the rim to retain the boot. It went on an stay but just a little bit of pressure and it will pop off

Using a piece of 1.5" PVC may work wice a C clamp but I was worried the pressue would cause the sharp barbed ring to break thru the fragile rubber boot

Has anyone else had this issue? Has anyone tried the ATE brand for the rear caliper rebuild?

This really sucks and it should be noted in the Tech Article!

Ok, I am calm now, here is my Caliper rebuilt with Big Red Brake Look using Caliper paint and Heat:

[hcoles]

I was talking about the rear seals with the "teeth". Can be pressed in with wood and clamp(s)

[DRACO A5OG]

Thanks HCole!

I did the mdofication and it seem to hold, if not I will try the wood thing,if it tears I will try the Centric boot.

Jim

[wholio94112]

...i found that the cap from a gerber baby food jar is the exact diameter needed to knudge that pesky, toothed ring where it needs to go...

[DRACO A5OG]

Really Awesome, will give that a try too what flavor :-o ???

[djbrand1]

When I just did mine, I used a cap that was the same diameter and pushed with all my might! Still was easy to pop off, but I got it on there the best I could and on the car it went. Well see how they are holding up with the next pad change.

[DRACO A5OG]

Wow, I can't believe only two of us had issues with this???

I hope the Gerber SST works?

OK, Just talked to Jason at PP

In his experience, you need an extra pair of hands to hold in on side and then you would press the other side, he agreed a BIG PITA.

Also recommend, if you have no friends to get a piece of wood to fit in the one side and C-clamp it then press the other in. Sure easy for him to say . But at least I got more leads!

He never tried the Baby Gerber or full on piece of wood then using a C-clamp to press in.

[wholio94112]

...keep in mind its really easy to tear the rubber!!!

[DRACO A5OG]

Originally Posted by wholio94112

...keep in mind its really easy to tear the rubber!!!

Copy That!

But how much pressure did you use with your SST Baby Gerber technique?

I found with brake fluid it keeps it pliable

[Nine9six]

Brake squeel can be kept to a minimum by throwing an approx .125" (1/8") chamfer on the leading edge of the brake pads, prior to installation.

[DRACO A5OG]

Well, driving around all day today, will check the boot when I bleed the 2nd time to get rid of all trapped air.

As far as squeeling, it is totaly gone once I corrected the piston postion to 20 Degrees, amazing, never been so quite

[jmh61]

I bought a steel pipe end cap from Home Depot that was the same diameter as the boot; put the boot in the end cap and pressed it on using a wood hand screw clamp. It popped right on. I don't remember the cap diameter, I took the boot to the store to figure out which size I needed.

[hcoles]

Originally Posted by jmh61

I bought a steel pipe end cap from Home Depot that was the same diameter as the boot; put the boot in the end cap and pressed it on using a wood hand screw clamp. It popped right on. I don't remember the cap diameter, I took the boot to the store to figure out which size I needed.

I like the sound of this, good thinking. I assume you want the smallest diameter cap where the seal will fit. Do you have a picture handy or maybe take one of the end cap and post? Thanks.