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Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: fond du lac wi
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high temp in SC-- install fan on 28 row cooler?
I have a 28 row brass cooler on my 79 porsche with a 3.2ss motor in it.
I have been pushing the car much harder at the track and coupled with sessions running 25 minutes plus my temp gauge is getting close to being in the red(1/4" away). The last track day which was warm I pulled off the track because I do not know what the temps are due to the gauge not having the temps listed. I have been waiting for a setrab or similar system to pop up for a good price and keep missing the good deals. I have a 935 type better bodies front valance so i do have some air flow pushing in the direction of the fender mount cooler but not directly at it. Question is would rigging a fan up to push air over the 28 row cooler bring the temp down? curious if anyone has done this. Or is the temp of my motor ok 1/4" under the red line on my gauge? 
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79sc Flared with a 3.2SS conversion 9.5:1 J&E's with 964 cams and M&K exhaust Viper Green He who laughs, lasts. |
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07-21-2011, 01:32 PM
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Join Date: May 2006
Location: Arlington, VA
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no, a fan is only good for stop-n-go traffic. at speed, it blocks air flow. what you need is ducting. box in that cooler on all sides, and duct it to your front opening on the bumper. radiators rely on pressure differential to work. if air can escape around the radiator, you have very little pressure difference, and therefore very little airflow through the cooler. you need ducting to fix this.
also, get yourself a numeric temp gauge. it's difficult to discuss temperature when you're measuring it in "quarter-inches of needle movement", instead of degrees.
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SOLD: '87 Carrera Last edited by lupin..the..3rd; 07-21-2011 at 01:48 PM.. |
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07-21-2011, 01:46 PM
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Location: Wheaton, IL (Chicago 'burbs)
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You need to get air to the cooler. That nose completely blocks any airflow. Cutting out the front only lets air get underneath the car, it doesn't put any air at the cooler. I have a nose like that and my oil temps ran 25-50 degrees high with the new nose than when the stock bumper and valance were on the car. (My Carrera bumper had a cutout in it to let air get to the cooler.)
If you haven't used the brake ducts with hoses to the brakes, might want to consider attaching a hose and directing the air at the cooler. Or catch air in the front cutout and direct it right to the cooler. Pointing air in the general direction will do no good, the air will just go under the cooler, the path of least resistance. Certainly a fan on the cooler will help. Or you could pull your right headlight out and punch big holes in the bucket which will put air directly into the cooler.
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Ed '86 911 Coupe (endless 3.6 transplant finally done!) '14 Jeep Grand Cherokee 3.0 Turbodiesel (yes they make one) '97 BMW 528i (the sensible car, bought new) '12 Vintage/Millenium 23' v-nose enclosed trailer |
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07-21-2011, 01:54 PM
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Location: fond du lac wi
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ducting
I tried directing flow to the cooler by cutting a section of the old fat heater duct and attaching it to the nose hole and pointing it in the general direction and it did not do much good. It was not directly at the entire cooler just the bottom portion of it.
I almost spent the $200 on the oil temp numerical gauge mod but I already know I am getting hotter than I want to be since the install of the new fiberglass bumper. I will investigate the fabrication of the ducting system to the existing cooler. I would hate to go thru the effort and not get enough cooling and end up buying the front mount cooler any way. Just weighing my options and I appreciate the responses and suggestions. If I duct from the front bumper small hole will it provide enough cooling over a 28 row brass cooler? I have never had any problems with the brakes going soft after switching to a street/race pad. So the front holes are not in use. Thoughts?
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79sc Flared with a 3.2SS conversion 9.5:1 J&E's with 964 cams and M&K exhaust Viper Green He who laughs, lasts. Last edited by jsmithcds; 07-21-2011 at 04:06 PM.. |
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07-21-2011, 04:01 PM
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RETIRED
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I'd add another cooler.....in the nose. You've already got the cut out for it......use it.
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1983/3.6, backdate to long hood 2012 ML350 3.0 Turbo Diesel |
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07-21-2011, 04:04 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 3,590
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you got the pretty part now get the cooler. especially if you are tracking the car. cheaper than a rebuild.
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1973 911S (since new) RS MFI specs 1991 C2 Turbo |
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07-21-2011, 04:13 PM
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RETIRED
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1983/3.6, backdate to long hood 2012 ML350 3.0 Turbo Diesel |
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07-21-2011, 04:14 PM
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beancounter
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Weehawken, NJ
Posts: 3,593
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AFAIK the 28 tube cooler is just a heat sink and not a "radiator" type, so its not really dependent on airflow, or much less so than the radiator style. Don't waste time or $$ on a fan or ducting for that 28 tube cooler. Just add the front mount oil cooler and you're done.
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Jacob Current: 1983 911 GT4 Race Car / 1999 Spec Miata / 2000 MB SL500 / 1998 MB E300TD / 1998 BMW R1100RT / 2016 KTM Duke 690 Past: 2009 997 Turbo Cab / 1979 930 |
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07-21-2011, 05:59 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: fond du lac wi
Posts: 538
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cooler
Well it sounds like I have a concensous on the front mount cooler.
Any recomendations on what size or number of rows I should be looking for in a front mount cooler? Name Brand? I have been looking for a complete set up for a few months to pop up here on Pelican. If any one has any leads let me know. thanks Justin
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79sc Flared with a 3.2SS conversion 9.5:1 J&E's with 964 cams and M&K exhaust Viper Green He who laughs, lasts. |
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07-22-2011, 03:46 AM
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Da cab
