open reservoir tensioner

[carrooth]

I have my muffler and heat exchangers off (no stuck or broken studs ) and just completed a valve adjustment (backside method)

I figured while the muffler was off I would rebuild my tensioners and put safety collars on. The engine is completely stock and I have the open reservoir tensioners.

I was surprised by the tensioners when I removed the covers because I expected to see the "new" style tensioner with the sealed reservoir and a bleed screw on the side.

The "new" style tensioners have some rubber o-rings inside while what I have, as far as I can tell from the picture, has no rubber pieces inside.

If I am correct and there are no rubber pieces inside is there any reason to open these old tensioners for a rebuild?

What is it that fails with the tensioners normally? I am assuming o-ring failure releasing the fluid pressure. Do the springs fail?

Thanks for your input

[carrooth]

Replying to my own post...

I went ahead and used two parts from the tensioner rebuild kit and replaced part #5 and #7. These were plastic and I'm discovering 45 year old plastic is brittle.

Now for my next question. Has anyone attempted to install a tensioner guard on the open reservoir tensioner? To me it appears it wont fit...small cup large guard.

Anyone?

Thanks, Jay

[john walker's workshop]

if you still have the ancient rubber ramps in there, be sure to replace them with the plastic ones. the ends break off and go through the sprockets. not a good thing. probably ought to get rid of the ancient tensioners too.

[carrooth]

Thanks John,

I've been looking into the ramp issue and discovered something interesting. I have no black or brown ramps only "plastic faced aluminum" ramps.

I seem to be coming up with more questions than answers. Are plastic faced aluminum ramps better than plastic ramps? Are the plastic ramps even interchangeable?