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3.2 rapid consumption of motor oil

Had a standard valve adjustment done about a month ago, including a complete oil drainage & fill-up of 11 quarts of 20w-50. At the time, oil level showed slightly overfilled at about 2mm above the upper hash on dipstick.

25 days and 730 miles later, oil level only shows 30% up from lower hash mark. I know a "healthy" engine eats up about a quart every 1000 miles, so I'm pretty certain this amount drop isn't normal.

I constantly peak beneath the engine when the car is parked to check for any signs of oil leak, but have not noticed any puddles or even drops of oil the last couple of months. I'm pretty certain I'm taking measurements correctly - after the engine temp is warmed, car idling on a level surface - so I don't believe that's the issue.

Any ideas for the rapid drop in oil level?

TIA

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Old 07-10-2011, 04:51 PM
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Try using Valvoline VR1 RACING 20/50.......if the same consumption, try a straight weight. Otherwise, top end time.

Do you have smoke on decel?
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Old 07-10-2011, 04:59 PM
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From what I understand, your oil consumption will be quicker if you fill all the way to the top mark. Maybe try topping off to the halfway mark, and tracking consumption from there?
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Old 07-10-2011, 05:02 PM
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check the engine after it's warmed up on level ground, and idling for at least a minute.
Old 07-10-2011, 05:03 PM
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could be getting into the intake manifold when over filled, also notice much smoke? Did it smoke before at all?
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Old 07-10-2011, 05:06 PM
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Firstly, my car does seem to go through more oil if on the high side of the HI/LO marks. If she would ever be above the HI line, I think she'd go through a lot. But if I fill her to half way between the marks, she will go thousands of miles before needing a quart. If there is no outside evidence of leaks you would think that there must be some smoke. If there is no smoke and no evidence of leaks, I'm thinking that either the method of checking the original level or subsequent levels were at fault. At the risk of starting a firestorm of controversy, what kind of oil is it?
Old 07-10-2011, 05:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Bob View Post
Try using Valvoline VR1 RACING 20/50.......if the same consumption, try a straight weight. Otherwise, top end time.

Do you have smoke on decel?
The VR1 20w-50 racing is what's in there.

I don't notice any obvious smoke on decel - visually or otherwise. Sometimes I'll notice what seems like a slight burning smell, though it's hard to tell if it's my car or the surrounding city traffic. Should the colored smoke be obvious on decel?

I'll keep tracking.. hopefully the next 730 miles won't take off as much as the previous 730. Top end don't sound like fun.
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Old 07-10-2011, 05:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rusnak View Post
check the engine after it's warmed up on level ground, and idling for at least a minute.
I typically check dipstick level immediately after driving the car hard while engine is idling, not after waiting at least a minute at idle, if that makes a difference.
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Old 07-10-2011, 05:17 PM
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Correct as long as it is warm...meaning that your oil temp gauge has gone it's max (180-190F) then dipped a bit indicating your thermostat is open. Depending on ambient temp....that can be 5-20 minutes.

BTW, I'm not a fan of synthetic oil on air cooled engines.
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Old 07-10-2011, 05:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bcoats View Post
could be getting into the intake manifold when over filled, also notice much smoke? Did it smoke before at all?
It smoked & leaked a few months ago before the O-ring was replaced, but not since..
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Old 07-10-2011, 05:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Bob View Post
Correct as long as it is warm...meaning that your oil temp gauge has gone it's max (180-190F) then dipped a bit indicating your thermostat is open. Depending on ambient temp....that can be 5-20 minutes.

BTW, I'm not a fan of synthetic oil on air cooled engines.
I'm not a fan either, but I thought VR-1 Racing is not synthetic? I'm looking at the bottle and the word "synthetic" is not written anywhere.. I'm pretty sure it's this one:
VR1 Racing 20W-50 - VR1 Racing - Valvoline

Btw on the long drive today, oil level gauge on dashboard (which I typically ignore) showed completely empty most of the time, which is what caught my attention in the first place.

My main concern would be the top end.. I guess my question is, is a seemingly leakless & smokeless but oil-guzzling 3.2L characteristic of an engine needing a top end? or would other indicators like constant leaks & smoke be more obvious "symptoms"?
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Old 07-10-2011, 05:36 PM
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+1, re-check when she is fully hot 194 degrees or 1/8" above the first hash mark on the Oil Temp Gauge. On level ground, let her settle down while idling then pop the cap and check the dip stick.

While you are drving around, you should also hear the oil passing on the pasenger side rocker from the front oil cooler to the engine and visa versa. This is a sure sign you will get Proper Oil Levels.

Checking before she is hot or immediately after a run will give you nutty readings.

The VR1 is completely DINO/Conventional NON_Synth.

The Oil Level will always show low when underload at all times. If you come to a long stop, if the Oil Level Sender Unit is working properly and your level is at OEM middle of the dip stick it will indicate it properly. Once you move off it will show low to red again. This is as PAG designed.
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Last edited by DRACO A5OG; 07-10-2011 at 05:41 PM..
Old 07-10-2011, 05:36 PM
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Quote:
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I typically check dipstick level immediately after driving the car hard while engine is idling, not after waiting at least a minute at idle, if that makes a difference.
You've been advised that makes a difference. You need to learn how to check the oil properly.
Old 07-10-2011, 05:40 PM
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No worries Porsche 911,

It took me awhile to figure out the oil level, untill I removed and fixed my Oil Level Sending Unit.

Now I have a Oil Level Gauge that works as it should of course double checked by the Dip Stick.
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Old 07-10-2011, 05:49 PM
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VR1 is definitely dino. It's what I use.

The gauge will read zero when driving and read correctly....as much the gauge is ....only when idling on level ground.
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Old 07-10-2011, 05:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DRACO A5OG View Post
+1, re-check when she is fully hot 194 degrees or 1/8" above the first hash mark on the Oil Temp Gauge. On level ground, let her settle down while idling then pop the cap and check the dip stick.

While you are drving around, you should also hear the oil passing on the pasenger side rocker from the front oil cooler to the engine and visa versa. This is a sure sign you will get Proper Oil Levels.

Checking before she is hot or immediately after a run will give you nutty readings.

The VR1 is completely DINO/Conventional NON_Synth.

The Oil Level will always show low when underload at all times. If you come to a long stop, if the Oil Level Sender Unit is working properly and your level is at OEM middle of the dip stick it will indicate it properly. Once you move off it will show low to red again. This is as PAG designed.
When I arrived at the many stop lights today after a hard run, the oil level gauge did rise up to about 30%, before falling back down to low red once driving off again.

The dashboard temp gauge almost always indicates between 20% and 50% "hot" from bottom when I step out of the car to check the dipstick oil level (I don't know what degrees that translates to).

While driving, I keep the driver window rolled down and I listen to the sweet 3.2L flat-six music, so I don't much notice the sound of oil passing on the passenger side rocker from the front oil cooler to the engine.
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Old 07-10-2011, 05:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rusnak View Post
You've been advised that makes a difference. You need to learn how to check the oil properly.
I hope and pray it's the case that I simply need to learn to check the oil properly. If simply waiting an extra minute or two at idle before taking the dipstick measurement is the answer to my concern, consider me a thankful. We'll see - hopefully I won't have to re-post after checking next time.
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Old 07-10-2011, 06:05 PM
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It's NOT an issue of waiting at idle.....it's if the external thermostat is open or not. Putting your hand on the oil lines going forward is the ultimate indicator.

If the lines under the passenger side is hot.....check the dip stick. Cold....don't.....run it some more.
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Last edited by Joe Bob; 07-10-2011 at 06:16 PM..
Old 07-10-2011, 06:14 PM
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I'll look to check the oil lines under the passenger side next time.. just want to make sure I'm checking the right pipe.

The engine had been driven for over 40 miles this warm morning when I parked the car and first checked the oil level btw.. I thought that'd be more than enough to warm her up. Later I drove her a good 15 miles before checking again and getting the same 30% reading.
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Old 07-10-2011, 06:32 PM
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A good practice to get into might be to check it when you return home from a drive. That way you know its up to temp and you know its ready to go next time.

When you stop driving and let the car idle, oil gets pumped back into the tank, which is why you see the needle rise at stop lights and such.

Give it a minute at idle to pump the oil back into the tank before you check. I think your problem all along might be that you were not being consistant in your dip stick reading.

Old 07-10-2011, 07:40 PM
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