Oil Lines, Creative solution?

[Packy]

I'm in the process of doing an SSI install on my 79 911SC and I've run into a problem. When I join the hard oil line up with the flexible line from the thermostat I get play between the lines. I tightened the nut down as far as it will go and it isn't clamping the flared flange between the nut and the hard line. It looks as if it is just too warn or squished to get a good bite. Here are some pictures of what I'm talking about (sorry for the crappy cell phone pics).

Connection, not tightened down all the way:


Flange up against hard line without nut pushed up against it:


Flange:


The hard line is new (part number 911-107-739-10-M127) but the flex line is used which is why the flange is a little warn. I would prefer not to spend $125 on a new flex line, especially because I'm driving to 300 miles to southern california on Friday and would like to have to car purring like a tiger before then.

Any creative solutions? I am wondering if I could crush a washer either in front of the flange or in back of the flange. Has anyone else ever had this problem?

Thanks in advance for the help.

-P

[rsscotty]

Is it possible the nut is cross-threaded. By the loOKs of the picture it might be. You should be able to tighten the nut most of the way by hand if the threads are OK. I would not recommend any crush washer.

[Flat6pac]

The picture looks like you have the early 901 line, not the 911 line. I would take it off the engine and make sure it bolts together. The new connection looks like the 65 to 71 piece.
Bruce

[Packy]

The threads are definitely not cross threaded. And the receipt from pelican says this:


911-107-739-10-M127 1 Metal, Engine Block Oil Pressure Line Cross Over Pipe, 911 (1973-74) Note: Used when backdating to 74 type or SSI heat exchangers. - Brand: German

So I'm assuming I bought the right line. This says it is for a 73-74 but I should use it to back date my '79. Is this the wrong line?

[Packy]

I wouldn't be surprised if it is the wrong line, because the exhaust studs I just installed are too long and they were the recommended part by Pelican. They look like they are for the thick flange SSIs. I'm going to return them and get shorter studs.

This has been such a PITA. I thought SSIs were just a "bolt-on" up-grade. HA!

[Packy]

I figured out what i'm going to do. I'm going to take it to a truck hydrolic line shop in town and give them both lines and just tell them to mate them. This will be faster and cheaper than ordering a new line from pelican.

Thanks for any help.

[JJ 911SC]

Originally Posted by Packy

... This has been such a PITA. I thought SSIs were just a "bolt-on" up-grade. HA!

Its the famous, same form, fit and function nightmare.

The 50mm exhaust studs turn out to be 46mm... Can you guest how many turns I was short???

The engine is going back in next week-end, so from what I've seen so far, I'll have to bent the seam of the SSI so it can clear the Clutch Helper Spring

[boyt911sc]

Originally Posted by Packy

I figured out what i'm going to do. I'm going to take it to a truck hydrolic line shop in town and give them both lines and just tell them to mate them. This will be faster and cheaper than ordering a new line from pelican.

Thanks for any help.

Patrick,

How did the broken exhaust stud kit work for you? Hope you did not break any drill bit in the process. With regards to your oil line problem, the big nut seems not able to get started going into the initial threads. Line-up the oil lines straight and get the nut to bite/grab the initial thread.

I would do a test fit with oil line disconnected from the auxiliary thermostat and start from there. It is easier to get the nut started this way for the trial fit. Keep us posted.

Tony

[Packy]

Originally Posted by boyt911sc

Patrick,

How did the broken exhaust stud kit work for you? Hope you did not break any drill bit in the process. With regards to your oil line problem, the big nut seems not able to get started going into the initial threads. Line-up the oil lines straight and get the nut to bite/grab the initial thread.

I would do a test fit with oil line disconnected from the auxiliary thermostat and start from there. It is easier to get the nut started this way for the trial fit. Keep us posted.

Tony

Hey Tony, I did the 4 studs that were broken but I am not going to mess with the other ones, YET. Drilling them out from under the car was a good workout, but it did work. Thanks again for lending me the tool. I'll be heading your way on Friday afternoon so I think I'll drop it off then. I'll give you more details when the end of the week gets closer. The oil lines are not cross threaded. They actually thread in fine and then bottom out (fully mated threads). The problem is the flange lip is too thin so it doesn't get clamped between the nut on the flexible oil line and the male thread on the new line.

I took both lines off and tried a test fit and got the same thing. I'll be taking it into a hydrolic shop in the morning. I want this car running by Friday.

Thanks again,

Originally Posted by JJ 911SC

The engine is going back in next week-end, so from what I've seen so far, I'll have to bent the seam of the SSI so it can clear the Clutch Helper Spring

Yeah, my SSIs were already cut for the spring so I didn't have that problem.

[BoxsterGT]

See if someone local has M30x1.5 thread chasers or even a loose M30 nut you can try, just to confirm the threads are good.

The 739 10 Hard line looks correct, so just be patient and it will come together. Try moving the soft hose back & forth a bit while tightening the nut.

It takes many turns before they become snug, and only 1/4 turn to be tight once they start to make contact.

I made Male & Female thread chasers out of old fittings.........................



Happy to loan them but I am sure you can find them locally.

Len

[Packy]

Just for reference I'll explain what is going on.


Connection B-C is loose. When I connect B to D I get a solid contact and I measured the depth inside the nut and there is an extra 1mm inside the 30mm connection C nut. I went to the hose shop and they gave me this little guy for $3.50:


When I clamp B-spacer-C I seem to get a solid connection. Now I have to ream out the inside of the space so it has the same inner diameter as the hoses.

I'm not completely confident it wont leak so I'll try it out and if you don't hear from me again, it worked.

-P

[Packy]

Originally Posted by BoxsterGT

See if someone local has M30x1.5 thread chasers or even a loose M30 nut you can try, just to confirm the threads are good.

The 739 10 Hard line looks correct, so just be patient and it will come together. Try moving the soft hose back & forth a bit while tightening the nut.

It takes many turns before they become snug, and only 1/4 turn to be tight once they start to make contact.

I made Male & Female thread chasers out of old fittings.........................



Happy to loan them but I am sure you can find them locally.

Len

BTW, I like these chasers. but I don't think they'll help me in this case.

[BoxsterGT]

The thread chasers were just to confirm the threads were good.

Looks like the tolerance of the C nut is too great. Its certainly not a location that gets wear.

As long as the assy becomes tight using the shim no reason why it won't work.

Enjoy your trip South. Post some pics of your P-car at your destination

Len