Problems with 84 - 88 Porsche 911?

[bbmar26]

Hey all,

I have been looking to buy my first 911 and have gotten it down to 3 different moderately priced 84 and 88 year models, they have most of the design features i like from the early 70's with enough modern conveniences. Each has their set of superficial problems but all the internals have been replaced recently and seem be running well (engine, suspension etc.).

Curious of any know problems with these i should be aware of? or things to tell inspectors to really look for? I am having one inspected at the moment and am waiting on the final verdict from them.

Just curious of what your experienced thoughts were on these models?

Thanks,
-Ben

[Shadetree930]

I am going to move this to the 911 forum where you will have a more relevant audience.

[mholbrook38]

They usually say buy the best newest car you can afford. These cars are all old. You need to get a PrePurchase Inspection PPI. Before you buy. I think the 88 has a G50 trans which is easier to shift. Nothing wrong with the others though. The Motronic injection is arguably better than the CIS in the earlier cars. In any case, get the PPI and buy the "best" example. These are all great cars but they can be money pits, thus the PPI......did I say get a PPI.

[bbmar26]

Thanks, i am getting a PPI on the 88' at the moment, waiting on their written report. There are a few superficial problems that would not be very expensive to fix, if the engine and everything else is solid i will probably go for the 88, make a reduced offer based on some of the things the PPI is turning up.

[jdbunda]

Yep, PPI. IMHO, the G50 (87 on) gearbox is worth paying a premium for. Not that the 915 is really all that bad, but all things equal, the smoother shifts and beefier synchros are, I think, preferred. Make sure you inspect for rust, even the galvanized cars are susceptible after all these years. The engines are mostly the same, but the later cars had an updated motronic DME. If the odometer has not failed yet, it will, so take mileage claims with a grain of salt. Drive as many examples as you can, find a "good one". IMHO, it is worth paying a bit more for a well-sorted and aggressively maintained car, the ones that have been neglected will cost more than you think to get sorted, even with a thorough PPI, and I always seem to be re-learning that lesson.

[bbmar26]

At the moment The PPI is turning up no rust, just small chip marks on the front fender/hood from rocks, the left interior door pocket needs to be replaced and maybe new carpet pads? That sort of thing.

I sort of figured about the odometer, do you reckon most listings with 100,000 miles and below are closer to 200,000 miles?

-B

[DRACO A5OG]

If relatively equal miles for the year built, then go 88 3.2 G50.

But condition is most important, rust, oil leaks regardless of the year

[Quicksilver]

Originally Posted by bbmar26

At the moment The PPI is turning up no rust, just small chip marks on the front fender/hood from rocks, the left interior door pocket needs to be replaced and maybe new carpet pads? That sort of thing.

I sort of figured about the odometer, do you reckon most listings with 100,000 miles and below are closer to 200,000 miles?

-B

The odo goes to a million miles so the odo reading is accurate it they haven't opened it and messed with it.

[Por_sha911]

What "superficial problems" ? For instance, "A/C just needs a recharge" can (and usually) mean leaks requiring new hoses, condensers etc. Small oil leaks can be an indicator of a bigger problem like a broken head stud or, just a bad valve cover gasket.
Due your homework:
-Each year 911 has its own set of concerns. There are books you can buy teaching you how to buy speficially a 911.
-The 915 drives differently than the G50 trans. Which one do you like better?
-Is better A/C important?

*Make sure the PPI is done by a mechanic that knows air-cooled Porsche. Spend the money for a leakdown test. If you're paying top dollar for a low mileage car then pay to have the head studs checked.
You will end up spending more to buy a fixer upper if you can't do the work yourself!

[petrolblue83911]

For these 3.2 cars, the "more common" issues can be,

1. valve guides -demonstrated by excessive smoke at startup, or when down-shifting

2. inspect the condition of the carerra tensioners- even they can fail with high miles

3. check the frame-front suspension tie down locations, below the battery

4. Check the frame for any damage/evidence of an accident

[tcar]

Who is doing the inspection on the car? P-car mechanic?

If all you're hearing is paint chips, door pockets, ...that's not a good PPI.

[bbmar26]

Thanks guys this is all good stuff.

I am having it done by these guys Auto Appraise: Certified Auto Appraisals and Inspections, Classic Car Specialists, Total Loss Evaluations and Appraisals are they qualified enough? i am still waiting on the final written inspection document so the superficial problems were just me looking at photos they took, not the inspectors conclusion (nothing broken internally, like A/C or anything) more like "rubber foot-pads on door is a bit worn down" or "driver-side door pocket slightly damaged"....small things are are pretty easy to find/replace for a few hundred dollars.

I was also told from the dealer that the inspector found two small areas that potentially had some bodywork done (magnet test) or possibly some sort of factory bondo coating (but that conclusion seemed a bit iffy to me), though the carfax was clean and the dealer said the original owner swears that it hasn't been in an accident. (hmm....)

The car has 290k miles (yeah i know its getting up there) but the engine has been newly rebuilt, and...."the suspension was just gone through, completely rebuilt by the local Porsche dealer. The tranny had seals replaced when the engine was rebuilt. It shifts smooth and engages very good.
The clutch has 60-70% life left. Brake pads were recently changed, rotors are good" from the dealer.

Its definitely not new but is within my price-range of $10,000 - $15,000 (this car being closer to $15) and if the inspection of the engine is clean (no leaks etc) and driving test went well i think i will go for it. (unless you guys see some more reasons otherwise) Is that price too high given the miles for an 88' 911 even if the internals have been newly replaced/rebuilt? I have been researching others at higher and lower prices with half the miles...... but they all have equal sets of faults. Body looks great? some engine problems.... Body/engine/interior look good? Rust issues.... etc.

Just trying to find a decent first 911 that i can enjoy and drive the hell out of for a few years, I can handle some small exterior wear if the internals are all solid. Any other help is greatly appreciated.

Best,
-Ben