AC Compressor smoking

[rgshukri]

Hello All
My AC stopped suddenly and when i was doing my check i noticed that there was a burning smell coming from the engine compartment, and after some more digging i found that the wire coming from the high pressure switch to the AC clutch solenoid was burned, and it started touching the casing of the compressor just behind the pulley where it goes inside
do you think this can be repaired or do i have to go for a new compressor?

Thanks you all for your help

[Jgordon]

I had the same thing and the compressor was toast. Could just be the clutch. I know that's not particularly helpful, so consider this a free bump.

[llangston1]

Change out the clutch or the compressor & clutch soon. If that clutch shorts out it will blow your 25A A/C fuse in a hurry. At least that is what mine did when it fried itself. I just put on a new denso reman'd compressor clutch and it works fine now.

[rick-l]

I take it the high pressure switch was added for a r134 conversion?

Did the wire insulation wear through and smoke due to ohmic heating or did it melt because the compressor was incredibly hot?

In either case it should have blown a fuse.

[rgshukri]

Originally Posted by rick-l

I take it the high pressure switch was added for a r134 conversion?

Did the wire insulation wear through and smoke due to ohmic heating or did it melt because the compressor was incredibly hot?

In either case it should have blown a fuse.

i did have a look at those and the fuse melted rather than blown and the wiring was hot everywhere
i am thinking it was intermittent for a while until the 45C ambient and in traffic jam took its toll on it,

[rgshukri]

Originally Posted by rick-l

I take it the high pressure switch was added for a r134 conversion?

Did the wire insulation wear through and smoke due to ohmic heating or did it melt because the compressor was incredibly hot?

In either case it should have blown a fuse.

i am not sure but i am thinking it could be ohmic, because the temps her are incredibly high s maybe the compressor had to run at max for a long time so the Clutch solenoid got over heated, wihich led to that.

[rgshukri]

My question is:
can the clutch and clutch solenoid be repaired without replacing the whole assembly?
i am planning to go for the esert Duty upgrade and R134a conversion but not now.

[rick-l]

I didn't see your location, R12 is probably readily available there and works best.

How hard the compressor works has no relation to how much power is consumed by the clutch pull in coil. It should allow the clutch to be engaged indefinitely with no problem.

What would affect the current through the clutch coil is:

1. If the compressor seized and the clutch got hot enough to melt some of the varnish off the clutch coil windings
2. Same scenario as 1 with the connector or supply wire melting and shorting to case
3. Mechanically wearing through the wire insulation and shorting to case

You'll have to look and see what is damaged and maybe take an ohm reading on the coil.

I am not sure if this is the right compressor, the model # is on the case.

10P13C/10P15C Illustrated Breakdown

[kuehl]

Originally Posted by rgshukri

My question is:
can the clutch and clutch solenoid be repaired without replacing the whole assembly?
i am planning to go for the esert Duty upgrade and R134a conversion but not now.

Compressor clutch's typically fail because the compressor overheated.
The compressor overheated because either: lack of sufficient refrigerant/oil flow, overcharge, excessive pressure or it's very tired.

Before you invest in a new clutch assembly it would be wise to disassemble the compressor and inspect the compressor pistons, bores and wobble plate for wear.
If you find debris in the refrigerant oil (grey matter, metal particles) you will need to thoroughly liquid flush the system (hoses, evaporator, condensers) and replace the drier. This can be an extensive and expensive road to go down.

AC Catastrophe

Pelican markets many of the replacement components you will need.

PM if you need further help.

[rgshukri]

Thanks Kuehl
too little time nowadays to do all of this.
I think i will wait until next march and go to a full RennAire desert duty system,
what do you guys think?

[rgshukri]

Originally Posted by rick-l

I didn't see your location, R12 is probably readily available there and works best.

How hard the compressor works has no relation to how much power is consumed by the clutch pull in coil. It should allow the clutch to be engaged indefinitely with no problem.

What would affect the current through the clutch coil is:

1. If the compressor seized and the clutch got hot enough to melt some of the varnish off the clutch coil windings
2. Same scenario as 1 with the connector or supply wire melting and shorting to case
3. Mechanically wearing through the wire insulation and shorting to case

You'll have to look and see what is damaged and maybe take an ohm reading on the coil.

I am not sure if this is the right compressor, the model # is on the case.

10P13C/10P15C Illustrated Breakdown

Thanks Rik-I
we do have R12, and I actually bought a 13lb R12 bottle with oil and gauges, all was fine with no issues, well of course being a european car the AC is not meant for Dubai,so it would not cool as expected but if the car is driving its ok.

Anyway, I will have a quick look when i take it out after the sun goes down.

Cheers
Cheers

[kuehl]

Originally Posted by rgshukri

Thanks Kuehl
too little time nowadays to do all of this.
I think i will wait until next march and go to a full RennAire desert duty system,
what do you guys think?

What ever floats your boat!