how to tell short shifter parts, pics included

[robotman]

My 75 911S does not shift like it has a short shifter, but all the new parts for the factory short shifter kit look alike to whats already installed. I dont want to install this yet until im sure how do you tell?

[gamin]

Hi Mike - Glad to see you're busy on the car. I'm not familiar with the 915 stuff but I'm sure Bruce does and will reply as soon as he views your pics. Keep up the good work.

[robotman]

Thanks Gary

[gamin]

Mike - You and your family ride out the storm all right? We lost power for 3 hours that's all. I'm glad it's over.

[Flat6pac]

Mike,
When I think I know, i get fooled. The knob on the bottom of the shifter will be further into the tunnel so that would change the geometry to shorter.
Bruce

[robotman]

Ya we are ok but my cover it shed is shredded, needed a new cover anyway.
Alright Bruce ill check that out, thanks.

[DRACO A5OG]

It appears to be correct:

Do see a part number 911-424-930-00

[robotman]

Yup from the roll pin to the bottom of the shifter rod is longer.

Thanks

[911pcars]

The rectangular fork that the lever pivots within is a two-piece unit which only appeared in early 915 shift housings. The photo shows you have the standard shifter, not a factory SS kit. The factory short shift fork is one-piece and has a humped or curved top section and the pivot pin hole is offset toward the hump (see photo below).

OTOH, you might have an aftermarket SS kit made by Weltmeister or Target. Compare the length of the lever below the pivot pin hole the upper lever in Jim's post with yours. The aftermarket SS units include and need a spacer to maintain the correct spacing between the ball end and the shift tube. Note: This is because the shift tube height is fixed via its mounting on the chassis tunnel.

The OD of the WM shift lever necks down from approx. 19mm to 15mm at the shift knob end. The WM lever is also significantly shorter than the factory levers (above the pivot point).

Early 915 shift linkage on left (Sportomatic on right):


Factory Short Shift kit: The only interchangeable parts common to the regular factory shifter are the carrier plate (with Rev lockout pawl), the rubber buffer plate (at 10 o'clock) and the pivot pin:


S

[dicklague]

You might want to MIG weld the lever tube where it goes into the lower piece. It is either brazed or glued, and they are famous for coming loose.

Ask me how I know!!! I got mine all sorted out and shifting beautifully, and suddenly the lever was twisting around....

[robotman]

Ok the shift fork on the old shifter was a little less than about .25" longer than the new short shift modified fork. The old one also had some very thin shim washers that where broken apart. So the new fork fits in the shift housing and is held in with two roll pins, but there is allot of slop side to side because the new fork is shorter. What do i do? The new fork is the bottom picture.

[DRACO A5OG]

Without a Gate Shift Kit you will have that OEM Neutral side to side play.

If too loose for your liking, you can tighten the 24MM nut in front of the housing, that nut sets the tension for the shifter. Just don't over do it or it will feel very heavy when you shift.

[robotman]

What nut? there are two nuts on top that hold the spring plate down but no other adjustments, everything is roll pinned. Do you have a picture

[DRACO A5OG]

BRB. maybe it is my year 84-86 that has it but let me check. I just realized bentley does not show it too.

[DRACO A5OG]

Part number is 911 424 335 00 Tension Pin:

[911pcars]

Originally Posted by robotman

Ok the shift fork on the old shifter was a little less than about .25" longer than the new short shift modified fork. The old one also had some very thin shim washers that where broken apart. So the new fork fits in the shift housing and is held in with two roll pins, but there is allot of slop side to side because the new fork is shorter. What do i do? The new fork is the bottom picture.

That should be fore-aft play due to the replacement one-piece fork. As Jim points out, the later shift housings use a set screw and jam nut on the front to adjust this clearance. BTW, the orientation of the set screw in the parts illustration is off. It installs from the front in the fore-aft direction.

While the early two-piece fork is serviceable, they're just additional parts to align when reinstalling two roll pins while also inserting the max. number of spacers/shims to reduce the fore-aft play. The one-piece fork from the FSS kit as well as a late model shift housings both allow easier adjustment of this clearance. When installing the new SS fork, try to keep the pivot pin hole centered in the housing (fore-aft direction) by using the right combination of washers and adjustment of the set screw.

Don't forget the lube on all friction areas.

Here's a page from our website that explains the clearance adjustments:
Seine Systems > Blue Printing the 915 Shift Housing

Sherwood

[javadog]

I'm going off of memory here but I think they started using the later housing, with the adjustable pivot, in 1977.

JR

[group911@aol.co]

Originally Posted by DRACO A5OG

It appears to be correct:

Do see a part number 911-424-930-00

Easy way to tell that TRE Cup told me about is that the factory short shifters all had the additional collar welded around the shift lever as shown in the upper one in the pic. It appears just below the shift knob.

[javadog]

The only problem with that is that there was also a lever that was in between the original and the short shifter. This lever had a 10% reduction in throw, as compared to the original levers, while the short shifter had 20%. It became standard in 1985. I'm pretty sure it also had the collar, which was intended to position the top of the leather boot that was used on the shifters of the mid- to late-1980's.

JR

[group911@aol.co]

I have a shifter here from a car with leather boot but no collar. Must be a 10%