Clutch Adjustment Question

[mfiazzo]

Hi All,

I have a question on clutch adjustment on my 1978 911SC.

I followed the steps to adjusting my clutch found on this wonderful board.

The reason I adjusted the clutch was because the pedal came way out before the clutch engaged. After the adjustment it is much better. Pedal engages much sooner.

My question is in reference to the small screw on the actuating lever. The screw was almost all of the way backed out before my adjustment and now it is extremely close to being all of the way out.

Will a new clutch cable help this situation or do I have to bite the bullet and get a new clutch.

Thanks in advance for your help

Mike

[bullethole]

does your clutch slip? If you put the parking brake on and put the trans in 3rd gear and try to start, does the car die or does it slip. If its not slipping, you may be ok for a bit with just a clutch cable change (note, the front connection of the cable is a real bugger to get connected, be prepared for cussing and be patient.

[mfiazzo]

Hi Bullett,

It does not slip, so I will try the cable change! Thanks..

[Flat6pac]

Your adjustment changes the length of the shield on the cable so naturally the 8mm lock bolt will have to be adjusted to engage or release the clutch.
Bruce

[DRACO A5OG]

If your Trans is like my 915, you will need to disconnect the cable to adjust the actuator set screw to 1.2MM then with the cable on properly adjust it should measure out to 1.0MM.

The clutch must engage in the middle of pedal travel.

Have a helper press and depress the pedal while doing the cable adjust. PLUS 1 change the cable, yours seems to have over stretched.

SERVICE note, lube the shaft where the Helper arm pivots. If you have the dust guards, replace those as well. The heat will make them brittle and not seal the dust from entering the shaft.

[boyt911sc]

Mike,

Try to get 25 mm of clutch cable travel. We have the same car (year) and I used that distance as a guide. Have someone press down the clutch pedal and measure the cable movement at the transmission side. You are more than welcome to use my lift and will help you with the adjustment.

Tony

[mfiazzo]

Hi Tony,

Thanks for the info and the offer. I will order up a cable

[Mattcamp]

If that bolt is all the way out.....sounds like you are at the end of your clutch disk's life. When the clutch disk is new....that bolt is almost all the way in. The thinner the disk gets....the more you have to back that bolt out to adjust the clutch. Are we all talking about the same bolt/screw?

How many miles are on your clutch?

[mfiazzo]

Hi Matt,

Yes that is the bolt I am reffering to. I thought the same thing about the clutch, but I am going to try a cable change to see if I can buy some time on the existing clutch.

I am not sure how many miles the clutch has on it. I have only owned the car for three years and the PO did not give me much info on the car. It was an estate sale.

[boyt911sc]

Originally Posted by mfiazzo

Hi Matt,

Yes that is the bolt I am reffering to. I thought the same thing about the clutch, but I am going to try a cable change to see if I can buy some time on the existing clutch.

I am not sure how many miles the clutch has on it. I have only owned the car for three years and the PO did not give me much info on the car. It was an estate sale.

Mike,

Why would you replace the clutch cable if it is not frayed or worn out? I would try to make the adjustments on the cable first before replacing it unless you could confirm it is bad. At this point, I would measure the cable travel and post the number. Shoot for 25 mm (+/-) 0.5 after adjustment.

Tony

[Mattcamp]

Originally Posted by boyt911sc

Mike,

Why would you replace the clutch cable if it is not frayed or worn out? I would try to make the adjustments on the cable first before replacing it unless you could confirm it is bad. At this point, I would measure the cable travel and post the number. Shoot for 25 mm (+/-) 0.5 after adjustment.

Tony

+1.....The cable will not change where you adjust that bolt. You want to adjust that bolt first, then get the cable adjusted. I would buy the cable and keep it in your trunk just in case but don't change it if the pedal feels good and you can get the cable adjusted properly. If you run out of threads on the cable adjustment.....your cable may be stretched or frayed where you can't see it. FYI; I just did the clutch on my car and it went 91k. The bolt was backed all the way out and I was getting some chatter on take off (no slippage) for about 10k before I changed it. When I got in there; the clutch disk had wore down all the way to the rivets and ruined the flywheel. I think that ended up costing an extra 4 or 5 hundred bucks. When I put everything back together....that bolt was almost all the way in. That bolt will pretty much tell you how much life is left on your disk.

M.