993 removal of CV / half axles / drive axles

Groesbeck Hurricane · 09-25-2011, 02:53 PM

On the passenger side I am just about one inch of clearance from being able to remove the stub from the wheel assembly. I have searched, I tried jacking up the suspension but I have still run into issues. There appears to be nothing I could remove the gain more room for removal.

I am under the impression that you obtain room to move the transmission side of the assembly out and up or down so that you can drive back and out the stub and then drop the entire assembly out behind the brakes.

On the driver side I have been unable to achieve nut removal from the stub. I have permanently bent the metal bar I use for bracing, I have permanently bent the handle to my heavy duty lock/bolt cutters (old, made in USA, heavy), and I heard cracking in the hickory axe handle I used when breaking loose the passenger side. I'm using a 32mm nut on 1/2 14" heavy breaker bar with a three foot pipe extension.

Currently unable to remove the nut I have no idea if I can get the shaft out on the drivers side.

Do I invest in another (my cordless one is broken and would be too wimpy) impact wrench? I do have a compressor... Thoughts on taking off nut???

Thoughts on how to extract the 1/2 axles???

Thanks!

rattlsnak · rattlsnak's Garage

David, wow, I didn't put them on that tight, did I? Anyway, the torque spec on those is around 330ft.lbs I think. I always use a floor jack handle (4 ft handle) when I put them on. They usually come off with my big a$$ impact, or by using the handle method. And they are a tight fit for sure. You can either take the rear suspension loose, or drop the trans a few inches. Aside from that, you could take the axle apart at the trans end and remove the joint. That gives you some room also.

Groesbeck Hurricane · 09-26-2011, 08:03 AM

Yes sir! I'm thinking of adding some heat tonight and using a stouter piece of hickory...

I was hoping there was an easier way to do this. The trailing arms (I'm probably misidentifying) sure are in the way! Why this was not more like the '83...

On a side note, will taking the suspension loose change my alignment?

Deadeye · Deadeye's Garage

If you remove any arms with an adjustable end you should plan on re alignment. 3/4" drive socket and bar recommended.

KTL · 09-26-2011, 10:28 AM

Yep I agree 3/4 in. drive breaker bar is a wise idea. I broke a few 1/2 in. drive extensions and then got smart to use 3/4 in. drive bar with a long piece of galvanized pipe from the home improvement store as a cheater bar.

I don't see how there's any way to get the outboard axle side out of the knuckle w/out removing the inboard side at the trans. The CV axle just doesn't have enough articulation to allow that much angularity. After you get the main axle nut loose, then remove the M10 bolts at the transmission side. Axle will come out no problem and you can do whatever you want with it!

Groesbeck Hurricane · 09-27-2011, 07:55 AM

Thanks guys! Don't know that 3/4" tools are in the budget right now...

The transmission end is undone. Car is "normal" base model 993 with S upgraded suspension parts. Do not know if that makes a difference.

I'll be back in the garage tomorrow, late night tonight at work...

jeffs9146 · 09-27-2011, 09:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Groesbeck Hurricane

Thanks guys! Don't know that 3/4" tools are in the budget right now...

The transmission end is undone. Car is "normal" base model 993 with S upgraded suspension parts. Do not know if that makes a difference.

I'll be back in the garage tomorrow, late night tonight at work...

You can rent a 3/4" impact!

rattlsnak · rattlsnak's Garage

If you take the suspension loose at the outboard end, then you wont have to realign. The adjustment eccentrics are all at the inboard side. That being said, they are marked with lines/hash marks/slots, so if you mark them and put them back in the same spot as you took them off, you should be fine as well.

KTL · 09-27-2011, 10:08 AM

I think the 3/4" bar, short extension and socket cost me less than $50 at Sears/Craftsman. Or you could get cheaper stuff at Harbor Freight, given the infrequent use.

Agreed the 3/4" impact rental is a good choice. Just need to make sure your air supply has enough ooomph. Always helps to have a short hose too. Often times the long hoses we use for our home garage compressors is taking away some of the torque capacity of the impact wrench.