The hotter it gets, the harder it shifts

[Jerome74911S]

Often, on transaxle oil threads, people mention that "X" transmission oil allows smoother shifting while the engine/trans are cold. The assumption is that the smooth shifting continues once the transmission has warmed up.

I switched to Kendall and , yes, it does shift nice and smoothly while cold. However, the hotter the transmission gets, the harder it is to shift gears. If I want to shift from 4th to 5th, for example, with it hot, I have to really shove hard to move out of 4th, and then shove hard to go into 5th.

There is no problem with the synchros, they are fine, it's just hard to move the lever.

I have adjusted the clutch and the shift coupler (it has new bushings) until I like the action of each, but what is this business of the shifter stiffening up after running for a while?

[DRACO A5OG]

Strange, mine is very happy when hot

Calling Peter Zimmerman!!!!

Have tried double clutching?

What was in it prior to the change, how many changes of Kendall did you do? I did mine 3 times (1000 miles per) to insure getting all the old stuff out.

[IROC]

I experienced this behavior once and it ended up that my gearbox was actually low on fluid. Once I topped it off, the problem went away.

[tourist84]

"shove hard to move out of 4th" - Your clutch is not fully releasing

[Quicksilver]

Originally Posted by tourist84

"shove hard to move out of 4th" - Your clutch is not fully releasing

That is my knee jerk reaction too.
If that is the case it also means the syncros are being damaged until it is fixed.

[Jerome74911S]

Originally Posted by tourist84

"shove hard to move out of 4th" - Your clutch is not fully releasing

I considered this also. Why, though, does it always shift well until fully warmed (hot)? Also, the clutch engages above the middle of the clutch pedal travel range. If it engaged near the bottom I would immediately want to blame adjustment.

Is there some mechanism at work where heat can cause the clutch to not release fully?

[tourist84]

Originally Posted by Jerome74911S

I considered this also. Why, though, does it always shift well until fully warmed (hot)? Also, the clutch engages above the middle of the clutch pedal travel range. If it engaged near the bottom I would immediately want to blame adjustment.

Is there some mechanism at work where heat can cause the clutch to not release fully?

clutch disk may be hanging on the input shaft or sticking to pressure plate or flywheel - pedal travel may not be good indicator. An oil contaminated clutch disk or dirty input shaft splines may become more problematic with heat. When you are experiencing this issue with the car warmed up, experiment with putting it in reverse - can you place into reverse without grinding after holding clutch down for a 4-5 seconds ? (less is better) A longer interval required to select without grinding could indicate a reluctance of the clutch to disengage easily/fully

[winders]

Try Swepco!!

Scott

[Drisump]

Originally Posted by winders

Try Swepco!!

Scott

Wo.....I'm not sure a cup is going to save you.... I have Swepco by the way. Seems to me that something is not adjusted properly, perhaps expansion resulting from heat. Maybe a touch more release action is in order. Cheers

[ivangene]

I didnt see a year.....but Swepco worked well in my 99' however per PZ I am running Kendall in the 915 and it transformed the shifting!! That said the clutch should be checked for proper adjustment including the floor board stop and your seat position (just sayin)

[DRACO A5OG]

Hey Jerome,

You stated clutch engages above the middle of the pedal travel.

It needs to engage at the middle, if properly adjusted. I would lean towards the cable adjust to 25.0MM difference. When was the last time the Clutch Fork was replaced?

Jim

BTW fellas, she is a 74 per his Garage.

[Jerome74911S]

Yup, the car's a '74. That means no omega spring, or any of that fancy stuff, so does a "25.0MM difference" apply here - or am I misunderstanding something? It seems that clutch adjustment is more of a black art with this car. I agree that the clutch should engage at the middle, but in trying to solve this problem I now have it a bit above the middle, but not by much. That change didn't resolve the issue, nor did it make it worse.

I just recently put the trans back onto the engine, and the lot into the car. The clutch fork looked quite good, so I reinstalled it - it was pivoting very freely, too.

A new input shaft oil seal was installed (part # 915 302 381 00, I think), and the splines were clean on the shaft. I didn't do the seal installation, but it seemed to be straight and clean.

Also, there was no visible leakage from the flywheel oil seal. The flywheel appeared to be brand new, so it was not removed.

The above being said, there is a small seepage of oil visible at the bottom of the bell housing.

[GrantG]

I use Swepco and tranny used to be difficult to shift after prolonged sessions on the track on hot days (never had trouble on the street) and I added the WEVO cooler and it never gets hot enough for shifting quality to degrade now.

Welcome to Windrush Evolutions - WEVO - Porsche Products

[DRACO A5OG]

Originally Posted by Jerome74911S

so does a "25.0MM difference" apply here - or am I misunderstanding something?

As I just read the Haynes manual Section4 regarding your year, for that matter all years, the required Differntial of cable travel must be 25.4MM. Kind of coincides with the 3.2 (thru '86) specs of 25.0MM (+/- 0.5MM)

[Jerome74911S]

I have a Haynes manual on the shelf; I'll check it out.

[ivangene]

Bentley or forget it.......spend a few bucks and stop messing with the Haynes, use the pages to soak up oil that is on the floor

[Jerome74911S]

My Bentley manual is oilier than my Haynes. In any case, the Bentley doesn't cover my '74.

[Jbp]

Can it bee the litel beering in the in flywheel that is the problem when ewrything its hot.


Jocke

[Jerome74911S]

Originally Posted by Jbp

Can it bee the litel beering in the in flywheel that is the problem when ewrything its hot.


Jocke

I'm open to any idea, but I sure don't want to have to take the thing all apart again.

Therefore, verification of this suggestion will be useful before I crawl under the car, wrenches in hand.

[4sd911]

How many times has the hard shifting happened? Mine got stuck in 5th gear three times one night a half year ago I drove home in 4th, hasn't happened again. I was/is using Swepco.