advise on tools....

[bell]

over this next week i'll be adjusting my valves and other maintainance (plugs,filters,rear brakes).
i have pretty much all snap-on tools and i know how to use them
obviously i'm going to be being carefull, but what should i watch out for so i don't create hell for myself should something "slip".
thanks in advance

[rstoll]

If you use the feeler guage tool that most of us use, Warren's advice to loctite the screws and nuts that hold the blade on is priceless.

[Early_S_Man]

bell,

Depending on whether or not your valve covers have any leaks or not ... you may be tempted to overtighten the new 13 mm Nylock nuts that come in the 'kit' ... DON'T!!!'

Since 1981, the factory-specified torque for the valve cover nuts has been 6 lb-ft, or 72 in-lbs! If you don't have a 1/4" drive torque wrench, you can avoid overtightening them (which creates leaks) by only using a 'standard' 13 mm combination wrench, and gripping it with the palm of your weak hand, right next to the box-end socket while tightening the 13 mm nuts! It may seem silly and slow, but oil leaks onto heat exchangers gets REAL OLD AFTER A WHILE!

[Bobboloo]

You've probably read an article on the proceedure but just in case...
You do know that you need to jack up the side of the car that you're adjusting valves on before you remove the lower exhaust cover so as to avoid having oil spill out of the motor. Also, make sure you don't adjust valves to tight. It's better to err on the side of to loose.

Bobby

[ChrisBennet]

Originally posted by Bobboloo
You've probably read an article on the proceedure but just in case...
You do know that you need to jack up the side of the car that you're adjusting valves on before you remove the lower exhaust cover so as to avoid having oil spill out of the motor. Also, make sure you don't adjust valves to tight. It's better to err on the side of to loose.

Bobby

I do the valves in the firing order so jacking up one side of the car wouldn't work for me. I drain the oil beforehand and I don't have much of a problem with oil spilling.
-Chris

[bell]

thanks for the input, i'm changing my oil at the same time and i'm sure i will have oil dripping once i get the lower covers off, when i get under there i'll have a better idea as to what to protect from this. i've also been reading up on the valve adjustment procedure and am pretty sure i'll be ok.
where is the preffered spot to place jackstands (i'd look through the archives but don't have time right now)?

i'm sure i'll have more questions before this is done
thanks again

[Jim Sims]

Cover the top of the heater boxes with heavy duty aluminum foil to keep the dripping oil off them; the foil is reasonably tough and can be formed to stay in place. Put the jack stands under the rear torsion bar covers just forward of the rear wheels. Remember that it's really easy to end up with too much clearance (usual first time mistake) when adjusting valves; drag of feeler blade in gap should be like dragging it across a magnet. I hope you have spare blades for holder; I broke one last night and my engine is out of my car! Cheers, Jim

[bell]

i have 6 feeler blades , lots of light, and very small mirrors on hand, and i should recieve a package from the cute blonde ups driver tomorrow with the needed parts.
i was thinking of the foil, but you suggested it before i could ask
i think once i do the first valve i'll understand the concept of what everyone means.
i'm going to get some form of a camera so i can share the fun (frustration?) that will ensure.

[JDaniel]

The night before the adjustment you might want to take the car out for a spirited drive, then drain the oil (warm). Leave the the car overnight, and adjust the valves the next morning. Remember it must be stone cold when adjusting the valves.

Start on an easily accessable exaust valve (bottom). Just to get the feel of things.

Good luck. Don't worry, they'll probably be too loose the first time.