Porsche Combination Warning Light

[danrtodd]

I need a 911 Combination Warning Light, 7 prong, part number : 944632213. Does anyone have one for sale?

[86 911 Targa]

Originally Posted by danrtodd

I need a 911 Combination Warning Light, 7 prong, part number : 944632213. Does anyone have one for sale?

Dan,

As you are aware, that part is NLA.

May I suggest the salvage yards, our used parts forum, and eBay.

What appears to be the issue with your part?

Good luck,

Gerry

[crustychief]

I have the circuit card that fits in the plastic cover. The rear part of the cover has 88-471-267 on it. I think it is for a Carrera

[86 911 Targa]

Originally Posted by crustychief

I have the circuit card that fits in the plastic cover. The rear part of the cover has 88-471-267 on it. I think it is for a Carrera

Just curious, would you consider posting a pic of both sides of the PC board.

Thanks in advance.

Gerry

[crustychief]

Here ya go!

[86 911 Targa]

Originally Posted by crustychief

Here ya go!

If the fault is in the board, replacement components should not exceed $10.

Or, get the one from crustychief.

Here are the connections.

Hope this helps,

Gerry

[spuggy]

Originally Posted by 86 911 Targa

If the fault is in the board, replacement components should not exceed $10.

+1.

All the joints with dark-brown flux blobs around them are suspect. They're probably dry joints. The flux is supposed to aid the solder in flowing, and then be burnt off - the flux residue indicates that the joint simply never got hot enough when built. Sometimes, these have a connection initially, then go "bad" after a number of years.

A good solder joint should have little or no flux residue, and should have a bright, smooth, shiny appearance.

I'd apply a soldering iron, use a $5 vacuum solder-sucker to remove the old solder and re-flow with fresh solder. Beats me why the soldering on 80's Bosch PCB's looks only marginally better than sweat-shop $5 clock radios from the same period...

Resistors are passive, rarely go bad, and look burnt if they have. They're easy to check that they're still the rated value.

You have 5 semi-conductors (two transistors and three diodes) on that board. A total of 9 gates. You can crudely check the semiconductor gates on the diodes/transistor with any multi-meter in seconds (low resistance one way/high resistance the other == probably good). Exactly the same both ways == probably junk, if you're using an appropriate scale.

Looks like you have an electrolytic cap (the blue thing) and 3 glass dialectic capacitors on the board as well. These can be a little tougher to test without more specialized tools or building an RC bridge, but some folks suggest that there are crude tests that can detect "it's junk", at least for higher capacitance values. Or they're cheap/easy to simply replace. Electrolytic caps often swell/leak/explode if they're bad or abused.

If your electrolytic capacitor looks good, I'd try reflowing the solder joints, check the active components (the gates) and put it back in the car to see if it works now; better odds than Vegas.

The above is the equivalent of "shade-tree" advice, at best, although I haven't burnt myself on a soldering iron in years (yah, right, that end gets hot ), if someone who really knows what they're talking about contributes I'd suggest you listen to them

[86 911 Targa]

Originally Posted by spuggy

+1.

All the joints with dark-brown flux blobs around them are suspect. They're probably dry joints. The flux is supposed to aid the solder in flowing, and then be burnt off - the flux residue indicates that the joint simply never got hot enough when built. Sometimes, these have a connection initially, then go "bad" after a number of years.

A good solder joint should have little or no flux residue, and should have a bright, smooth, shiny appearance.

I'd apply a soldering iron, use a $5 vacuum solder-sucker to remove the old solder and re-flow with fresh solder. Beats me why the soldering on 80's Bosch PCB's looks only marginally better than sweat-shop $5 clock radios from the same period...

Resistors are passive, rarely go bad, and look burnt if they have. They're easy to check that they're still the rated value.

You have 5 semi-conductors (two transistors and three diodes) on that board. A total of 9 gates. You can crudely check the semiconductor gates on the diodes/transistor with any multi-meter in seconds (low resistance one way/high resistance the other == probably good). Exactly the same both ways == probably junk, if you're using an appropriate scale.

Looks like you have an electrolytic cap (the blue thing) and 3 glass dialectic capacitors on the board as well. These can be a little tougher to test without more specialized tools or building an RC bridge, but some folks suggest that there are crude tests that can detect "it's junk", at least for higher capacitance values. Or they're cheap/easy to simply replace. Electrolytic caps often swell/leak/explode if they're bad or abused.

If your electrolytic capacitor looks good, I'd try reflowing the solder joints, check the active components (the gates) and put it back in the car to see if it works now; better odds than Vegas.

The above is the equivalent of "shade-tree" advice, at best, although I haven't burnt myself on a soldering iron in years (yah, right, that end gets hot ), if someone who really knows what they're talking about contributes I'd suggest you listen to them

We never did get the specific failure mode from the thread starter.

If none of the lamps work, it could be just an open common ground.

You are correct, without a bridge, the only way, and somewhat not very specific way to test capacitors, is with the use of an Ohmeter.

Let's see what we hear back............

[crustychief]

Only one post and that was to open the thread. Maybe off for the weekend?