Case glueing, show me where, please

[Zendalar]

Ok, I am gonna put the case halves back together today. I was wondering if somebody had a picture of the case halves and could show me where to put the glue.

I know its all round, but to be sure if there are any tricks

Thanks

[Wayne 962]

Make sure that it's on all the surfaces that mate to each other. Use it liberally...

I like the Loctite 574...

-Wayne

[kepperly]

Bruce Anderson,s book 911 performance handbook show useing
a small narrow paint roller to apply the Loctite 574. I in addition
before rolling it on would take the roller and roll it over some tape to get any loose fiber off the roller, then apply the loctite. Make sure you have all bolts, washers, seals and an extra set of hands ready as soon as you set on the top half. The loctite starts to cure in the absense of air.
keith

[GIBSON]

The roller method works fine except around studs. There, I use an acid brush with the bristles cut in 1/2 lenght. They are a bit
stiffer then and work better. Place the bead of 574 or whatever case sealant you are using and then work the material with the brush in a vertical or up and down stroke to even out it's
coverage. Just dabbing the brush up and down works well for me. Just assembled my engine and fired it up, no leaks anywhere. I place the 574 on both case halves. The roller does work well but where you can't roll, use the brush.

Bruce Herrmann

[MMARSH]

I used the acid brush method. I put a bead around both halves then brushed in a vertical or up and down stroke to even out it's
coverage.there is no rush when doing this step,because the 574 wont start to harden intil you put the case halves together.

[Jim Sims]

I would recommend an assembly "dry run" where one puts everything together without adhesive to make sure one has all the needed fasteners, parts and tools. One wants to make real sure all the internals are installed and in place. A checklist is a good thing to make and use. We did this and had everything laid out in order like an "operating theater"; there were three of us and everyone had assigned tasks. "Speeder" wrenches are handy in getting the nuts on quickly (followed by torque wrenches - we had three torque wrenches on hand already set to the required torque values) as you're under a 20 minute time limit with the Loctite 574. We also had some of the parts "pre-buttered" - more about this later. It really helps to have one of the case halves on an engine stand. We finished the assembly in 15 minutes after installing the first Loctite 574 coated part. We too used the half-length bristles acid brush method of applying Loctite 574 to all of our case seams instead of a roller. We also did something I considered strange and counter intuitive but the technique apparently originates from a well repected Porsche machine shop and produces leak tight cases so I went along with my mentor. We also coated the through bolt O-rings (the through bolt assemblies were the "pre-buttered" parts) with Loctite 574. Also, get the loctite applied correctly around the crank ends! Good luck. Jim

[Jim Sims]

Regarding getting the case adhesive/sealer correct around the crank ends see this thread: http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=8406&highlight=nose+AND+oring

Jim

[diverdan]

Yo Jim:

What about silicone paste on those 0 rings? They are designed to let the parts move a bit through the expansion and contraction aren't they? I"d like to know what others do. Maybe I am a little wet behind the ears, but I'd like to learn.
Liberal application of sealer on case halves? I started a project 930 motor back in the U. S. about three years ago and applied the case sealer sparingly. Engine is not complete. Whenever I get a chance to resume the project, should I take it apart and use more case sealer?
Anybody use the Japanese bike case sealers? I've seen the bike results and its awesome.

Diverdan

[Jim Sims]

We usually use a Parker o-ring compound for our o-ring lubricant; the best way I can describe the stuff is "slippery snot". I don't believe it has any silicone grease in it. For example, our no. 8 nose bearing o-ring was liberally coated with the Parker o-ring compound as were the oil return tube o-rings when they were installed later. However, I'll have to check my notes, but I believe we only used the Loctite 574 on the case through bolt o-rings - no grease or other lubricant. I know this technique runs counter to the way "dynamic" elastomer o-rings work but I believe it helps "static type" sealing of o-rings which is what the through bolt o-rings really are. My thoery on how it improves the seal is the Loctite 574 around the o-rings improves the sealing surface characteristics as it cures (the through bolts are tightened and the o-rings compressed before the Loctitie 574 cures); the o-ring is then operating in it's own custom shaped cavity with better surfaces. The o-ring still can elastically expand and contract as required; it just is doing so in a better situation. If one recalls, the washers and case surfaces the through bolt o-rings have to operate against are rather coarse and then it also doesn't help matters that the o-rings for one side are passed over the through bolt threads and are subject to damage. That's my take on it. Jim