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Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: saskatoon
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got in over my head.......
I just secured a deal on what appears to be a 100 percent very close to original 1969 911 "s" targa, i am very new to these early cars and don't know what too look for to tell what it is for sure, i know cars from back then had so many things done to increase value like adding badges ect , but it all appears stock , other then i believe early s cars had mfi? this one does have carbs , ill try and get some pics when i get home ,
i know its a pretty rough shape has been parked for over 15 years , needs most likely everything , a shop here that i used to work at did rebuild then engine sometime ago but had troubles with the mfi and tried carbs to fix the problem and it didn't work , I'm sure this car is way above my means , so id like to trace down its history and maybe find it a good home , any help would be great on the values of this car thanks:
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77 924 1 st one ( parted out) 79 924 2 nd one ( sold) 89 928 89 944 |
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Location: sectors R&N, SE Pa
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don't know squat about them, but besides posting here, consider consulting: Early 911S Registry - The Front Page maybe? Congrats and good luck - and yes, give us some pics.
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Dan '87 Targa Carrera 3.2 - Fabspeed Cat Bypass, M&K Muffler, SW Chip Venetian Blue |
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the biggest issue you are going to want to look for is rust. On these cars it can be a killer. Has it been sitting that long in a garage or outside? If you intend to try and start it, DONT. There are some things you should do before turning that key. First, get a new battery, run all the fluids, gas oil etc. and put in fresh stuff. I would also put in fresh filters, both gas and oil while im at it. A new set of spark plugs can go a long way as well, like wise a new distributor cap and rotor is cheap and can be of great help.
The cars can be worth quite a bit if they are in good shape but if they have rust and need work there value drops very fast. If the engine needs serious work and there is rust I would ball park the price at 3-7k depending on a lot of factors, but that is what i have seen these cars in not so good shape fetching recently. pictures would be great, tough to make judgments before we can see it. regards dave
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David Colangelo "Porsche Accept No Substitute" 78' 911 Targa 88' 924s 31' Ford Model A |
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pretty funny i just found a post from 6 years ago asking about the same car ! well here are the photos so far , and over all it looks all there but i know in my heart i wont be able to restore it , my job keeps me away from home and my bank account says no! lol but i wont give it away
![]() where would one find the serial #? also any tricks to getting the engine lid open? im sure the cable is seized ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
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77 924 1 st one ( parted out) 79 924 2 nd one ( sold) 89 928 89 944 |
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That's going to be a big project. Pretty much a complete tear-down.
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Bone stock 1974 911S Targa. 1972 914/4 Race Car |
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Location: Lake Cle Elum - Eastern WA.
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Ruff
Rust could be the deal breaker. Check front pan, floors, rockers, etc. I think I see a lot of rust in these few pictures. I bought a one owner '69T in much better shape for $2,000 a few years ago....Minor rust in mine.
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Bob S. 73.5 911T 1969 911T Coo' pay (one owner) 1960 Mercedes 190SL 1962 XKE Roadster (sold) - 13 motorcycles |
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scrub it up real nice and you may change your mind. they're still fun, even if they look a bit used.
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https://www.instagram.com/johnwalker8704 8009 103rd pl ne Marysville Wa 98270 206 637 4071 |
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Contrary to your opening line, that car appears to be far from original and as others have posted, it is very rough. IMO, the only thing that may make the car worth much is if the chassis is truly an "S" and what would make it worth the expense to really make it "original" is if the engine is an "S" also. Somehow I doubt if either are the case, but you'll never know until you find the ID #'s.
The chassis VIN will be found in the front trunk, in two places--an aluminum plate riveted to the front bulkhead (to the left of the latch for the lid) and a stamped number in the sheet metal, found on the passenger side of the car on the metal just above the gas tank. Look for a small rectangle with black paint between the opening for the gas tank and the small compartment door (smuggler's box.) There may be a VIN on the driver's side windshield pillar that is also a small riveted plate, but not all 69's had that plate. When you find the VIN's post the numbers here to find out exactly what chassis you have. However, for a starter, if the number begins with, 11931XXXX, you have an "S" chassis. If the fourth number is not a "3", it is not an "S". Similarily, if you can get the engine lid open, the serial # is on the fan support, right side as you look at it from the rear, and should begin with 639XXXX. If you can find the engine type, on the flat metal to the right of the serial #, it should be 901/10.
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L.J. Recovering Porsche-holic Gave up trying to stay clean Stabilized on a Pelican I.V. drip Last edited by ossiblue; 11-15-2011 at 03:56 PM.. |
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Have you found the VIN? Open the hood and it's on the passenger side just on top of/behind the gas tank, down from the strut mount. It's a little raise plateau. Also there's a plate riveted to the driver side A pillar. Are you sure it's an S? Please post the VIN.
2 things immediately jump out: it has SC/Carrera flares and it has a 5-bar rear decklid grill. Of course these cars were bastardized for years, so it still could be an S. To get the rear deck open, pull the cable and lightly bang on the upper left corner of the lid, or have someone gently lift at the rear while you pull.
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Tru6 Restoration & Design |
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AutoBahned
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if it is an "S" then restore it to stock
if it is a "T" then turn it into a ratrod (search up that thread) and have fun |
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