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Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Colorado Springs, Co
Posts: 4
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engine removal notes for the first timer

this board gave me the info & confidence for an engine drop. i went for it after lurking around here for 3 months. i had virtually no mechanical experience....so thanks to all. hopefully this post will help out other first timers.

i removed the engine and tranny as a unit to seperate the tranny for a tranny rebuild that someone else performed. the car is a white '82 911 targa that i bought two months before the drop. this was a 2 weekend project that drifted into 2 months.

Jacking up the car -
went to home depot to buy wood blocks for placement under jack stands. (1) do not go the cheap-o route and buy the stuff pilled off to the side. it's warped and causes the car to rock while the tranny is inches over the forehead. very scary (2) spring for 2 quality jacks with the removable plates. get a couple of extra cheap-o jacks to wedge under the car for extra stability. (2.25) do yourself a favor and buy the engine removal attachemnt for your jack. the 'wood block under engine' balancing act is no circus show worth paying for.

Shift coupler well -
the screws for the plate are too close to a couple of fuel lines in the well. a screw penetrated a fuel line and caused sprinkler system like action throughout the cabin. not cool when the assistent is smokin a cig looking at the leak to see where it's comming from. (2.5) stocking the garage with cheap beer will attract cheap help. (3) fuel leaks are no cause for panic - pep boys sells the 11.5m rubber fuel hose real cheap.

Under the car -
the metal throttle relay to the throttle cable to the pedal and engine that attaches near the tranny fill should not pop-off when prying the ball off. it does not make a good handle to pick up the tranny. mine broke off too easily. (4) many studs will break off and many many threads will strip. it's not you...it's the car.
if someone else puts the helper spring on backwards use it as an opportunity to get out the BIG hammer. (5) vent when using a hammer
the rear sway bar will not line up and go back on while the car is jacked and the wheel is hanging - took me about 25min to figure this one out.


Engine area -
if the fuel lines are swisting when using the 'scissor action'...they will break (6) use $3.00 pressure fitting for broken fuel lines.
(7) use electrical tape of various colors to mark ALL connections.
the engine mount bar broke when removing the drivers side engine mounting bolt. unbelievable. $25 for a 15min job at a local welding shop.
CIS removal - if you do not remove all 12 washers from the manifolds the may fall in. two washer fell in ---the hole. (8) buy lots of shop towels to plug & cover everything up

Seperating the tranny from the engine -
the starter solenoid housing is made of a very cheap plastic. mine crumbled under the slightest pressure. bought the high torque unit (9) think of broken parts as opputunities for upgrades. the wife will understand the learning process and your desire to save her money.
(10) buy '101 projects...' (11) slow down and take your time (12) be obsessed (13) shut out the #$#( wife and snot nose kids. (13) you can do it

thanks again for all the help

Old 03-29-2002, 08:19 AM
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